Ok, I know very little about hondas except how to fix normal problems, but this car I bought has had a motor swap so I don't know how to tell if everything has been done right. It's a 90 crx si with a b18b1 and (i was told) a gsr tranny. I checked the codes that the led flashed and got 1,5,9. It seems to run ok, though I expected a bit more power from it. My main question is how can I tell if it has the right ecu for the motor, and has it been tuned for it? I saw someone post that thier light came on when they let off the gas to let the engine slow them down and it only stopped comin on after they got it tuned, mine only comes on under same circumstances, could it be I need to get it tuned? I smell gas a little every now and then maybe it's running a little rich. I also checked the mpg of the car, strangely it gets better the faster I go? 29-32 going 80 @almost 4k rpm, and only 26-28 going 70 @ around 3.2k rpm, weird unrelated I'm sure but weird. Anyway, if anyone can tell me if there is a way to check to see if it has been tuned properly, and the number/type ecu and where to get the number off of it that would be a huge help. Another quick thing, where does this car read the rpm, once my gauge gets up to about 6k it goes nuts and I have no idea what it's up to. Thanks.

 

Upon further inspection, has total new exhaust with no o2 sensors anywhere...and the ecu has been changed just dont know to what, im guessing from the car the motor came from, someone has written on it with a paint marker but its not legible. The motor is from a 93 ls teg. <--see I'm learning the terms allready XD

 

Look at the label on the ECU and post up what it says.

 

There is a upc type sticker on it says: 37820-PR4-A10
430-217458 AR the AR is about 3x as big as rest.

 

PR4 = 90-93 Integra RS/LS (B18A1). If it has a grey plug for the harness to plug into, it's OBD1 (92-93). If it has one black slot and a one green slot for the harness to plug into it's pre-OBD/OBD0 (90-91).

 

You have no 02 sensor hooked up, your Map sensor is wired up back wards if you even have one and you need to switch the wires on the Distributor for the CYP sensor code 9.
Your ECU is an OBD0 since it ends in A10 for a B18A1 motor, I have one.

 

Thanks, I will swap the MAP wires and what do you mean switch the CYP wires on distributor? I am gonna redo the connections on the CYP today because they just twisted them together and threw a tony bit of electrical tape on em. Maybe that will help also. Thanks both you guys for help. I'll post my results.

 

solder and heatshrink the distributor wires. check for obd1 conversion stuff in the FAQs and there are links to the wire color matches you need.

 

Ok I connected the distributor wires like a non-spider monkey. I didnt swap the map wires because they appear to be unmolested. I have some pics of the motor. What is the hose in my hand....? It attaches beside the oil filter under the intake onto something on the side of the block.
And are all those vacuum lines supposed to be unhooked on the firewall behind the tb?

 

 

You are missing the air boost valve and the dashpot it hooks up to.
They work together to helps ease engine starting.

The purge solenoids and charcoal canister can be deleted, but since you have them you might as well hook them up and be a little environmentally friendly. Without them, you might get some fuel fume smell.

You NEED the fuel pressure regulator and MAP to be hooked up properly.

 

Wow this crap is all mixed up. How is it still runnung good lmao.

 

So this needs to go to #1? I moved the line so you can see where it goes right now.

 

Yup! - and that white vacuum splitter needs to go to the trash.

Consider a vacuum cap to replace the hose that has a bolt in it.
You can find assortment packs of them at any auto part store for just a couple $s.

 

Alright i got that done. Now one last question, what is this hose? Its the one i mentioned earlier it goes down as you see in pic and hooks beside oil filter. You have been awesome help btw.

 

Breather box (PCV system). It should have a PCV valve on it and if I'm not mistaken it connects to the fat hose with a bolt in it in that picture you provided.

 

Thanks, I guess I'll go buy a pcv valve and hook it up.

 

I actually started laughing out loud =P
All those hose clamps!

Best images I could find.
There are two hoses coming off the breather box.
Might want to feel around or take a look at the box to make sure the elbow tube is in place (it hooks up to the engine block)


Nice write-up on PCV replacement.
Should help.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/pcv-replace/

Still finding those hose clamps hilarious!

 

ok I feel pretty confident I got it now, the only thing left to do is replace the pcv valve and hook up my multi-clamp hose to the one with the bolt stuck in it. By the way, after I hooked up the vacuum lines the right way, the idle dropped to 400 once it warmed up, so I had to adjust tht a little lol. Thanks a ton for all the help guys, I was so lost on this.

 

I have a new question honda gurus :-) Will the crx axles work with the b18/gsr trans or do you think they are integra axles? I need front brakes badly the rotors are warped and shake the hell outta the steering wheel when braking, but i dont wanna buy the wrong stuff. Is there a mark i can look for on front and back axles? Its an si body if that matters.

 

Needs integra axles.