First off i want to say hello to HT and this is my first post here! Im fairly new to the honda game, but not to the car game.

Okay here is my problem. and yes im a new user but iv been searching on this site for awhile and i haven't found my exact problem..

i have a B18c5 swap in my 98 gsr and sometimes after i drive her for a while and turn the motor off and try to turn it back on i get a NO crank NO start. Now i think i some what narrowed it down because when i put a multi meter to the power side of my starter while i try to start it (i did this when it wouldnt start) im only getting 6-7 volts. so now when i pull out that one wire harness on the front of the starter?(sorry new to this) and connect it directly to my battery using a jumper wire with a button wired in it she starts right up when i push the button... my starter is new. it always starts first thing in the morning.

so what do you guys think it could be? something in the ignition? im just confused on my next step.. Thanks again!

 

when you had your multimeter hooked up, you were checking the solenoid wire, yes? the small one

 

its the smaller (trigger)wire. "which is the control wire which tells the solenoid to actuate (basically, the starter solenoid is a relay" does that help? black and white wire

 

there is an added resistance somewhere in the circuit, only allowing half the voltage to reach the solenoid. is there an aftermarket alarm on the vehicle?
if not, i think i'd start by jumping the clutch interlock switch. would be the easiest place to start

 

Any voltage at the exciter lead, [starter lead] eliminates the CIS as the problem, I would start by jumping, [bypassing] the starter relay, this assumes, as mentioned there is no aftermarket alarm with a starter cut relay.

KEEP IN MIND if you bypass the starter relay the engine WILL crank without stepping on the clutch.

I say start by bypassing the starter relay because it is easy enough to do, however may guess is the problem is the ign. switch, as the problem arises after things warm up, no currant is passing through the starter relay after start up, but currant is always passing through the ign. switch once it is on.

You can also test the voltage at the ign. switch starter lead, [black/white] when engine is not cranking. 94

 

unfortunately it does have an aftermarket alarm system.. since i did bypass the solenoid already (and it did start without the clutch pedal depressed) you're thinking it could be the ignition switch?

Fcm: where is the ign switch starter lead? i believe that's the wire i jumped already on the starter and it started right up. or am i thinking about another wire? (blk/white wire)

 

You said you jumped it at the starter, [bypass jump] like explained here...
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...cm+bypass+jump

You need to test the starter lead at the ign. switch itself...


At one of the brown plugs you will find the black/white lead, back-probe into the plug at the black/white lead and see what the voltage is when engine will not crank.

The problem will be at the switch or along that black/white lead, most likely at a connection point, so if power is good at the ign. switch side of the plug, test on the dash harness side of the plug and then at the starter relay plug, both input and output sides untill you find the drop in voltage.

Honda/Acura ign. switchs have had theit problems...
http://www.visualimpressions.ca/switch/
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html 94

 

i'm not sure i follow. the ignition switch is a switch in the same sense, no? couldn't a poor contact in the cis cause the same symptom as the ign. switch?

 

Not exactly the same, the ign. switch supplies "high currant" power, [more then 1A] the CIS supplies a "low currant" ground, [less then 250mA] or in other words the load on the ign. switch is high and the load on the CIS is low.

That being said, if when testing the starter lead, [exciter lead] at the starter motor indicates any power at all, [6-7 volts, as OP said] would mean the starter relay must be energizing, which in turn would indicate that the CIS must be working.

If the symptom had been no power on the starter lead or clicking from under the dash when trying to start, I would than suspect a possible CIS problem.94

 

yes that's explicitly what i did in the link you posted. i will test the starter lead at the ignition hopefully by tonight and i will let you know what i get
thanks again to everyone for all the help

 

ahh, i think i see. so the cis grounds the control side of the relay then? and the load (solenoid) side is supplied by the ign switch? and then the solenoid grounds through the trans/chassis? sorry. just wanting to be clear on the circuit operation

 

seems like i got more to worry about then this intermittent problem.. someone pulled out of a wawa parking lot, straight into my rear quarter as i was just driving minding my own business i will try to get back on track asap with my starting problem..

 

A little old lady did the same to me, but on the other side...



Sad part was, I had just got the car out of the body shop a few weeks before after replacing both the left and right side OEM rear outer panel sets, the whole piece... http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...ystemcomp=List All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal 94

 

damn man i feel your pain. it definitely sucks.. i just really hope her insurance company doesn't total my car. i would be screwed out of a lot of money. here is a better photo in the sunlight.
total my car. i would be screwed out of a lot of money. here is a better photo in the sunlight.

 

Only way to fix that is to replace the panel. 94

 

Well that's not a good sign.. i guess i might be screwed. you think an insurance company would go that deep into fixing a car whose book value is right around 3,000 dollars?

 

The side panel is $400-$500, [$200 or less from a bone yard] probably $1000 to replace it, plus paint.

My guess is they will write it off, unless the car is in very good shape otherwise, I would let them, buy it back as a salvage and either part it out or replace the side panel yourself, if you have the know-how.

Kind of comes down to what they will give you for it, up here we have gov. insurance, ICBC and fair market value applies, if you do not like an offer made by ICBC to write off the car, you can take it to arbitration, they must base their offer on what is avalable in your market, all things being equal, [same mileage, same body condition, previous claims on the can and so on].

Up here also, aftermarket parts are not covered unless you get a "rider", extensive restoration of a car, new motors/transmissions/ interiors and so on are covered if you have documentation or an appraisal, all subject to arbitration if you do not like a write-off offer. 94

 

Unfortunately I do not have enough know how in body work to fix it myself.. If they do write it off I feel my best bet would be to buy it back and fix her at a body shop.. Thank you for all the help and insight on this matter. I hope it works out for the best. And that car is in amazing condition

 

Sorry to bump this but the problem is still here and seems to be getting worse. It used to only happen after the car was warmed up, but it's now been happening in the morning after the cars been sitting over night and also it seems to be happening more often (hot or cold)
Again I can jump/bypass by connecting my starter right to the battery and its starts right up. When car is acting up voltage going to the starter is only 6-7 volts and not 12 that is should be. When I try to start I do hear the 3 clicks and the fuel pump does prime.

I read what fcm posted about the ignition cable but it says one of the MAIN symptoms is that **the car will stall** but mine doesn't. Only stalled on me one or twice in the passed 6 months. That being said can it still be the ignition switch?

Thanks again guys. Just getting annoyed with having to jump/bypass to start my car at least one a day..