97 Accord v6 has spark and fuel but no turnover
I just got my first Accord and it died on the interstate. CEL came on while I drove to work, and then turned back on when I went home. I thought I could get it home as it started fine, but then it died and will not restart.
I borrowed a code reader from Autozone, but the ECM shows no codes stored. When I turn the key the CEL comes on for 2 sec and then turns off as it is supposed to.
I have spark at the plugs and tested them by grounding the plug to the frame. I followed the Honda manual and the ICM, plugs, wires, cap, rotor and coil are good. I also checked all fuses in both the engine compartment and driver's side floor board.
After trying to start the vehicle, the plugs have fuel on them and I can hear the injectors clicking with an engine stethescope. Having read previous posts, I bought a new main relay and replaced it without sucess even though the old one was clicking as described and showed no broken contact points.
The timing belt looks good (previous owner said it was changed about 60k ago and it looks fine on visual inspection) and I have compression on each cylinder.
I also replaced the fuel filter as the previous owner couldn't tell me when he changed it last.
My last though is the ECM is bad and not even registering codes. Unfortunately I do not have another one to test with and Autozone wants $400 for it.
Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks
I borrowed a code reader from Autozone, but the ECM shows no codes stored. When I turn the key the CEL comes on for 2 sec and then turns off as it is supposed to.
I have spark at the plugs and tested them by grounding the plug to the frame. I followed the Honda manual and the ICM, plugs, wires, cap, rotor and coil are good. I also checked all fuses in both the engine compartment and driver's side floor board.
After trying to start the vehicle, the plugs have fuel on them and I can hear the injectors clicking with an engine stethescope. Having read previous posts, I bought a new main relay and replaced it without sucess even though the old one was clicking as described and showed no broken contact points.
The timing belt looks good (previous owner said it was changed about 60k ago and it looks fine on visual inspection) and I have compression on each cylinder.
I also replaced the fuel filter as the previous owner couldn't tell me when he changed it last.
My last though is the ECM is bad and not even registering codes. Unfortunately I do not have another one to test with and Autozone wants $400 for it.
Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks
It may be the crank or cam sensor. Which ever your car has, my 97 4 cyl. has a cam sensor. But that's the only thing I can think of, if it has fuel, spark, and compression. The only other thing is air, and I can't see any possible reason it wouldnt have that. But if the crank or cam sensor is bad then it can stil have spark, just not at the correct time. So, I'd check that.
First off.. WOW. THANK YOU for being so thorough and doing your own troubleshooting before coming on and posting something along the lines of "Help, my car won't start thanks". ... YOu can't find many H-T noobies like yourself so consider that a BIG compliment and welcome. I find it very very odd that the CEL came on but turned off by the time you had a chance to run the OBD scanner on it though, that would have been HIGHLY helpful in your troubleshooting. Did you potentially flood your engine? Correct me if I'm wrong but if you hold down the gas pedal all the way down, it will clear out the excess gasoline in your engine and you might have better luck?
So I checked the crank position sensor (following the Accord Repair manual) and it tests fine. Since the ECU had not previously registered a code, I tried to start it and the CEL came on and registered the missing crank position sensor. Plugged it back in and the code went away. I also let it sit a few days over Thanksgiving, so I know it is not a flooding problem.
Any other suggestions?
Any other suggestions?
When you checked the timing belt did you take the covers off? Your cam or crank gears or even your timing belt could be missing a few teeth and is slightly out of time. Also I've heard of something like a coolant temperature switch that can kill the car if it overheats to prevent the block from melting because they are aluminum. Its called the coolant temperature switch or cooling fan temperature switch or something like that. You might want to look in to it. I'm sorry I dont have more info on that switch. I'll try to find out exactly what it's called
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