Anyone ran these in a street tire class?? I will be running in the sport compact fwd street tire class next season and looking for the best tire besides a bf goodrich drag radial...how where your 60ft times??

 

a little off topic, as some of you know, I keep in close contact with M&H racemaster tires on their slicks and I give feedback from the consumer/racers point of view. I recently had a conference call regarding the design and applications for Sport compact drag radials. Well, I recommended 2 sizes for immediate production. a 205/50/15 and 205/50/14.
According to the compound planned for the street drag tire, it should be way better than the BFG's, M/T and especially the NITTO's.
It will be a DOT approved tire, but basically its a slick with grooves.
So be on the look out for those, they will be hot and should be available for next season. of course, Exospeed.com will be carrying these once it comes out.
Until then, I'll keep ya guys updated.

well anyways..regarding the M/T drag radials. those are acceptable tires for that class. as long as they are radials and DOT approved, they are good to go.
As far as 60ft times, they will be better than regular street tires. Its a middle ground between slicks and reg. tires.
60fts'should be about 1.9-2.1
keep in mind that suspension, etc makes a diff. too

good lck
Wil

 

They're not good to go..... they're Bias-Ply Tires not Radials.

 

oh really? hmm didnt know that. I had always thought that they were kool, but then again, more people were using BFG's than M/T.
come to think of it, i dont know anyone using M/T

 

as far as i have heard slicks will be allowed in the street car class... afterall.. what boosted honda can get any sort of traction withough slicks anyway?

 

They are basically a slick with grooves and have DOT printed in huge letters on them. I thought since they were DOT approved they would be allowed in the street tire class, and they should preform better than the BFG due to its more a slick than a radial..

 

They're pretty tall,i think the shortest one youll find is 26" and youll have too run a tube in them,theyre tube type.

 

a tube isnt really necessary. thats what they say, but me and a lot ofothers that i know run our m/t slicks without tubes with no problems. they just leak down over about a week.

 

yeah but i think running a tube is alot better and safer,for 2 reasons..1 you can run lower PSi without the fear of popping a bead or spinning the tire on the rim and 2 the tube gives the tire more stability at speeds esp those tall tires...o yeah,one more point,if you do run tubes,you gotta put some screws threw the rim into the bead so the valve doesnt get ripped out if the tire ever spins on the rim.

 

tube makes the slick heavier also. which sucks

 

yeah but it aint much,maybe 2-3lbs each one and its where FWD could use a little extra wieght for traction,over the front wheels,while where on the wieght topic,Ive seen some guys w/musclecars running in pure stock drags with regular tires actually fill the tires halfway with water for the extra wieght,believe it or not..o i might add,they were cheating.

 

bullshit............running tubes means you should screw the rims to the beads. If not launch hard and rip the valve stem out of the slick, then meet mister WALL!

I run tubeless, half to add about 1/2 pound after 2-3 passes in one slick.

Running tubes + screws or even bead locks is the best way. BTW little tip, teflon thread sealer on the bead screws.

 

bead lock is even heavier. adding bead lock is atleast about an extra 4 to 5 pounds.

 

lol.. whats bullshit! you didnt say anything i didnt besides mentioning a bead lock rim.. for you for that and please explain what you think i said is bullshit.





[Modified by D-Man, 11:39 AM 10/20/2002]