D16z6 5,500rpms 3rd gear, misfire then limp mode...Help!
1990 Civic LX w/ D16z6 engine swap.
So I have an issue with my D16z6 swap. I am trying to see what it could possibly be. The computer was replaced with another (P28), same tune (eliminated the possibility of a bad ECU). The distributor is brand new (not re-manned) New plugs gap at .044 and new plug wires. (Third distributor in the car (2 used ones and now currently the new one.)
Only thing in between could be the wiring harness that was used to do the conversion. So anyone else ever have this issue?
It seems pretty consistent that these conditions of the load of the motor in 3rd gear (5 speed manual) at 5,500 rpms it will misfire then go into limp mode, but not all the time. (can't rev past 3,500rpms). I apologize in advanced for not posting up the codes. I will get to it as soon as I can.
Maybe wondering if I have a bad v-tec solenoid or something sensor related that is bad. Haven't took my DVOM to check and test the solenoid for continuity and see what the oil pressure is with a gauge around 5,000 rpms via honda's diagnostic flow chart for OBD0.
Thanks! I will get back up in here codes most likely tomorrow.
Edit: I got code 4 going on for the CKP - crank position sensor and code 17- VSS (my speedo cable is broken so that is obviously not an issue)
So I have an issue with my D16z6 swap. I am trying to see what it could possibly be. The computer was replaced with another (P28), same tune (eliminated the possibility of a bad ECU). The distributor is brand new (not re-manned) New plugs gap at .044 and new plug wires. (Third distributor in the car (2 used ones and now currently the new one.)
Only thing in between could be the wiring harness that was used to do the conversion. So anyone else ever have this issue?
It seems pretty consistent that these conditions of the load of the motor in 3rd gear (5 speed manual) at 5,500 rpms it will misfire then go into limp mode, but not all the time. (can't rev past 3,500rpms). I apologize in advanced for not posting up the codes. I will get to it as soon as I can.
Maybe wondering if I have a bad v-tec solenoid or something sensor related that is bad. Haven't took my DVOM to check and test the solenoid for continuity and see what the oil pressure is with a gauge around 5,000 rpms via honda's diagnostic flow chart for OBD0.
Thanks! I will get back up in here codes most likely tomorrow.
Edit: I got code 4 going on for the CKP - crank position sensor and code 17- VSS (my speedo cable is broken so that is obviously not an issue)
Last edited by 90civic1.5; Nov 14, 2012 at 08:19 PM.
Answer is right in front of you. If you don't think a crank position sensor is important I don't really know what to say.
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That's right about when vtec engages, but it will NOT on your car because it needs VSS.
You think that would cause the crank position sensor to freak out not seeing engine speed through the VSS? I wouldn't think either of those would indirectly effect each other. My VTEC starts at 4800 to 7400.
I was only pointing out the code 17. Maybe you disabled VSS sensing in your tune if you are actually getting vtec. Speedo cable is easy to fix and might as well see if it helps fix your other problem.
Only things I could figure to be the issue for the CKP would be
Distributor - You have new one, but you just never know. Swap out with a known working one or test yours on a working setup.
Wiring - Would be tough to not be failing at low RPM if this were the case, but not impossible. Perform continuity checks from distributor to ECU.
ECU - Something weird with the tune. Try an unmodified P28.
Only things I could figure to be the issue for the CKP would be
Distributor - You have new one, but you just never know. Swap out with a known working one or test yours on a working setup.
Wiring - Would be tough to not be failing at low RPM if this were the case, but not impossible. Perform continuity checks from distributor to ECU.
ECU - Something weird with the tune. Try an unmodified P28.
Did already replace the ecu once. Same tune though. Guy who did the work is looking at it today and will let me know whats going on.
I'm going to be completely blunt and say **** you. I built my own engine harness and probably have 5 times the electrical knowledge you do. If you were more educated than me (or somewhat educated I suppose) you would have checked for continuity between the dizzy pin and ecu pin for your CKP sensor. But hey, that's just what an uneducated person would do. And educated one would be lazy and post dumb questions on HT.
Continuity was there. Thanks for a more thorough response. No stupid questions just stupid people. I'm not a Honda techy so my stupidity is evident because I am asking for help on this issue. So yup. And I'm not gay so no trying to **** me.
Then I wouldn't go around calling people uneducated here. Chances are they might know a thing or two more than you, and might of helped until you decided to start name calling in a "tech" thread.
I am not shitting anyone, I have had the plugs, plug wires, ECU replaced with a 2nd chipped P28, the wiring harness from the ECU to the Dizzy replaced and the dizzy replaced (2 times btw (1 used ones then 1 new one) and this is what I get... all the wiring checks out good, voltage, resistance etc. I am going to go through and replace the TPS, VSS (needs one) and V-Tec solenoid just to have good **** in there. Anyone think that the timing belt could be off a tooth? Though it doesn't seem to be.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoXr...e_gdata_player
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoXr...e_gdata_player
I was only pointing out the code 17. Maybe you disabled VSS sensing in your tune if you are actually getting vtec. Speedo cable is easy to fix and might as well see if it helps fix your other problem.
Only things I could figure to be the issue for the CKP would be
Distributor - You have new one, but you just never know. Swap out with a known working one or test yours on a working setup.
Wiring - Would be tough to not be failing at low RPM if this were the case, but not impossible. Perform continuity checks from distributor to ECU.
ECU - Something weird with the tune. Try an unmodified P28.
Only things I could figure to be the issue for the CKP would be
Distributor - You have new one, but you just never know. Swap out with a known working one or test yours on a working setup.
Wiring - Would be tough to not be failing at low RPM if this were the case, but not impossible. Perform continuity checks from distributor to ECU.
ECU - Something weird with the tune. Try an unmodified P28.
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