PLZ HLP!!! Very low throttle resp. & overheats in high altitudes!!
What's up everyone,
As you can see on the title I have this issue when I reach Bakersfield, CA and specially when I hit the grapevine going to LA!.
I got a 97 hx with 216,757 miles on it, it has a brand new w. Pump, timing belt, rad, thermostat, thermoswitch, I used to have a Ebay flat "high flow" fan but with no shroud it always overheated so I recently put the OEM fan/shroud back on, I also did a compression test while motor was in operating temp and all cylinders I got 180psi, I also did a block test and no toxins were in my cooling system.. After installing my w. Pump I did bleed the system the right way with my front end jacked up and with my heater on full blast.
I live in the valley by sacramento, and I work in long beach, the whole way no issues at all!! But once I hit Bakersfield my temp crept up a bit not much but a bit above middle, but once I got close to the grapevine I had no throttle response even if I floored it and my temp got 3/4 of the way high so I pulled over for 10min and let it cool down and I bypassed the rad fan so it can stay on and it helped with the temp a bit but not my throttle response.
Any help/ advice would be very and greatly appreciated from anyone that has experienced this or knows how to solve this issue.. THANK U ALL IN ADVANCE!! :-)
As you can see on the title I have this issue when I reach Bakersfield, CA and specially when I hit the grapevine going to LA!.
I got a 97 hx with 216,757 miles on it, it has a brand new w. Pump, timing belt, rad, thermostat, thermoswitch, I used to have a Ebay flat "high flow" fan but with no shroud it always overheated so I recently put the OEM fan/shroud back on, I also did a compression test while motor was in operating temp and all cylinders I got 180psi, I also did a block test and no toxins were in my cooling system.. After installing my w. Pump I did bleed the system the right way with my front end jacked up and with my heater on full blast.
I live in the valley by sacramento, and I work in long beach, the whole way no issues at all!! But once I hit Bakersfield my temp crept up a bit not much but a bit above middle, but once I got close to the grapevine I had no throttle response even if I floored it and my temp got 3/4 of the way high so I pulled over for 10min and let it cool down and I bypassed the rad fan so it can stay on and it helped with the temp a bit but not my throttle response.
Any help/ advice would be very and greatly appreciated from anyone that has experienced this or knows how to solve this issue.. THANK U ALL IN ADVANCE!! :-)
Oh and yes I did google my question and I got nothing.. Only vehicles that were running boost.. I always google first before I ask a question on here and as u can see I dnt ask very many question or should I say I don't post much..
Anyone please!
Anyone please!
Is a CEL being thrown? Does the CEL even work? Is the car completely and totally stock? Did you replace the water pump and related parts with Honda parts?
Yes the car is bone stock besides cold air intake. Also yes everything in cooling system is all new, timing belt as well! Like I stated now it acts up in higher altitudes.
is your coolant level dropping at all? maybe going up the hill under load it's pushing combustion pressure past the head gasket? it doesn't always show up in a compression test, and the coolant may not be contaminated enough to show up with the sniffer.. yet.
if the fan cycles, it cycles, no worries there. maybe you got a bad thermostat there, ive seen non oe ones stick until the first time it heats up, but just the first time.
side tip, to bleed the coolant. turn the heat to hot and the fan speed off, you need the valve open so the fluid circulates, you don't need the heater core being cooled delaying the opening of the thermostat.
if the fan cycles, it cycles, no worries there. maybe you got a bad thermostat there, ive seen non oe ones stick until the first time it heats up, but just the first time.
side tip, to bleed the coolant. turn the heat to hot and the fan speed off, you need the valve open so the fluid circulates, you don't need the heater core being cooled delaying the opening of the thermostat.
is your coolant level dropping at all? maybe going up the hill under load it's pushing combustion pressure past the head gasket? it doesn't always show up in a compression test, and the coolant may not be contaminated enough to show up with the sniffer.. yet.
if the fan cycles, it cycles, no worries there. maybe you got a bad thermostat there, ive seen non oe ones stick until the first time it heats up, but just the first time.
side tip, to bleed the coolant. turn the heat to hot and the fan speed off, you need the valve open so the fluid circulates, you don't need the heater core being cooled delaying the opening of the thermostat.
if the fan cycles, it cycles, no worries there. maybe you got a bad thermostat there, ive seen non oe ones stick until the first time it heats up, but just the first time.
side tip, to bleed the coolant. turn the heat to hot and the fan speed off, you need the valve open so the fluid circulates, you don't need the heater core being cooled delaying the opening of the thermostat.
That dose make sense, I was hoping that is could make it another two months or so b/c I'm going to do a b series swop or a H series swop.
But I also bled it as u stated, without my heater fan on.
I really do appropriate your guys' responses!
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