Ok. So I bought a used 1996 Honda Accord LX and it is in good condition. But one thing I noticed is that I refuse to drive on 1st or 2nd gear because whenever I press the gas it sounds like it's taking a lot of power to do so. It drags a lil but eventually goes. Now when slowing down it feels like the car is dragging itself to stop. But when I drive on 3rd or 4th gear it's ok and quick to go. What could it be???!

Btw, I have a broken axle. Anyone know how much those go for and is it a difficult repair? Plz help!!!!!!

 

Is this an automatic and are you manually shifting?
I'm not sure what you mean by dragging. If you place the shifter into D1 or D2 the trans will only go into those gears and hold. The engine will rev until you shift into a higher gear. As for 'dragging' if the trans in placed into 2nd or 1st while driving normally, the engine will act as a brake when you let off the gas pedal. Is this the 'dragging' you speak of?
A new axle from RockAuto is only ~45+shipping. Most chain stores will have the axle in stock but the price may be higher, closer to ~80. I've used New A-1 Cardone axles without any issue.
The replacement of the axle is fairly straight forward, however there are several steps involved. The biggest problem is braking the old axle nut free.
A quick run down...

*Remove hubcap. Honda uses the lug nuts to retain wheel covers, These will need to be removed before the cover can come off. Take precaution. Reinstall lug nuts.

*Un-stake and loosen CV axle nut.

*Set parking brake. Place the shifter into Neutral. Chock rear wheels.

*Loosen front lug nuts.

*Jack affected front corner of car up and place on jackstand

*Remove lug nuts and front wheel

*Pop the inboard joint of axle, larger screwdriver or pry bar.

*Remove axle nut

*Remove flexible brake line bolts to shock, remove line from shock.

*Remove sway bar end link

*Remove split pins from tie rod and lower BJ

*Remove tie rod nut, flip, reinstall so the flanged part is flush with the stud.

*Strike with a hammer to pop tie rod free. Remove nut, remove tierod.

*Remove lower BJ nut. Flip and reinstall it so it is flush with the bottom of the stud.

*Using a floor jack, place the cup directly under the inverted nut and jack the arm up via the nut. It should pop free, you may need to strike the lower control arm with a hammer with a stubborn stud.
2nd method requires compressing the suspension and jamming a socket in between the control arm and spindle, lowering the suspension will cause the socket to push down on lower control arm and pop BJ stud free.

*Pull knuckle away from the body, and remove the axle. It will slide through the fork, no need to disassemble it. Just be careful of boots.

*With new axle, protrude the stub shafts out of the plastic bag it is in. If the new axle did not come in a plastic bag, use a grocery bag to help protect the rubber boot as you slide it through the shock fork.

*Re-installation is , as hokey as this sounds, reverse of removal. You will need torque specs as I do not have them off the top of my head. And if your old cotter pins are old/damaged you will need new ones.

This can easily be done in 30mins with the correct tools. Usually the stall point will be breaking the CV axle nut free, or the lower BJ stud will not break free.

 

Didnt know a accord had "flight issues" (read title).. Have you done your pre flight check list? If your flaps are down it could cause some drag.

I would check to make sure your e brake isnt draging