so i got this 95 gsr in mint condition only 100k miles and it makes a tiking sound that goes with the revs .i thought the valves needed to be adjusted so i pulled the valve cover and they all check with in spec. there was a exhaust stud broken off so i removed it and replaced it. I just installed a rmf narrow style header with a new gasket and still it ticks!!!! any ideas

 

timing off could be off, check distributor? spark plugs?

 

i put new spark plugs in it and cap and rotor , do you think the distuburtor could be making noise? it sounds like an exhaust leak

 

Does the sound seem to be coming from the distributor? Like there are a handful of marbles rattling around in there? Use the screw driver to your ear technique to zero in on it.

If so, adjust the timing belt. At 100k miles the timing belt was most likely just done (even though it should have been done 10 years ago). Most people do not adjust the timing belt after installation. I know it sounds ridiculous but trust me on this. I've done this many times to remove rev matched ticking. Plus it only takes about 10-15 minutes so it's pretty much free.

Remove valve cover.
Set engine to TDC #1 compression stroke.
Rotate engine 5-6 complete revs COUNTER CLOCKWISE.
Remove rubber access cover from lower timing cover. Loosen t-belt tensioner bolt by 180* (14mm socket).
Turn engine COUNTER CLOCKWISE by 3 cam gear teeth (about 90* on the crank).
Tighten t-belt tensioner bolt and replace rubber access cover.

Start it up and report back.

 

ok i will have to try that but what is it adjusting ? the tension?

 

LMA's possibly/likely

 

what are LMA's and how do i check them?

 

LMA's are lost motion assemblies. they support the vtec rocker arms when they aren't being used. does the noise go away when in vtec?

only way i've heard of checking is by physically pushing them up and down and feeling for any sticking, clicking or abnormal feel.

 

Yes, the timing belt tension.

 

I would have to agree with the lma's. If it is a 95, I'm sure it still has the old style lma's. Which had the dual spring and the smaller spring would break or wear down, causing the notorious tick. You can take your valve cover off and take a flat blade screw driver and push down on the VTEC rocker. If the rocker hesitates coming back up, you need to source late model lma's. They are a single big spring..

 

You said all the valves check with in spec! i highly doubt it! did you just slip a feeler gauge in?
Your best bet would to readjust all the valves! set the valve lash even if it seems good! In my experience it works best if you use assembly lube on the feeler gauge to feel the resistance better. just one valve off spec will give you chatter. It will never hurt and i bet it will go away.

lma's would be your next area to look at if its still there, you will have to tear the head up a little and remove the lma's and replace them or disassemble, clean and bleed them.

 

so today i removed the valve cover to readjust the valves and check out the Lma's and there is one valve giving me a hard time just using a 10mm wrench and screw driver . i get it right at 0.007 and then when i go to torque it it tightens back up. do you guys use a jam nut adjuster tool or a wrench and screw driver ? also the lma's feel real soft the first part of movment the gets harder is that normal?

 

There's a tool you can find online to adjust the valves easier. If the lma's spring back up slow than they need to be serviced or replaced.