I posted here last year when this started getting cold and this problem started but recieved very little help. I choose to put it in the tuning section in hopes that it may be seen by some one a little more knowledgable.

I have a feeling that this might be the same result

heres the run down
no codes!!!! original ecu , motor ect.
2001 integra
BONE STOCK! 112k
new plugs wires, plugs (ngk)
both o2 sensors,
distrubutor, cap, rotor,
timming belt, tensioner, waterpump,
catalitic converter

the car never gave me any problem when i lived in arizona i come to the north east and last year and again this year it dies when its cold out side. its very wierd. I pride myself on fixing my own cars but im stumpted!

what happends

on cold mornings usually below 40 degrees i start the car and let it warm up, when the heat indicator needle starts to get above a quarter of operating temputure the car just flat out shut off/ dies. this only happens when its cold out side.
then it will not start again it just cranks and cranks nothing after about 5 mins or so the car starts back up with a little rustling and it does not happen again
if i am driving i can slam the gas pedal down and it crackles and pops then dies again it shuts off and will not start for a few mins.
im thinking it may have something to do with the coil but i changed the dizzy @ 80k and the cap and rotor last week. any help or idea are greatly appriecated its really annoying on my morning commute to work i know its coming and have to pull over wait then start the car back up. its wierd that cold effects it considering the whole time ive owned the car in arizona its never seen temps below 60 haha. shes stuborn i guess

 

Everything on the car is stock? Or is this the one I tuned for you?

It could be an intermittent connection somewhere in your main relay perhaps...

Does it do it EVERYTIME or would it be one of those cases where if you brought it down it probably wouldnt do it once you got here?

 

everything is completly stock except a cheap ebay cai ....
no this is my dailly driver not the one you tuned, my civic is already in storage for the winter.

it does it every time as long as it is cold about under 40 degrees so this morning as you and me know it cold it died.

 

Sounds like a sensor is acting up. However not sure which one and why only when cold. Do you have the coolant lines still going to the throttle body? Sensors to check would be TPS, MAP, IAT and coolant.

Also another trick works for some people check your valve lash.

Fuel filter?

 

My money is on the engine coolant temp sensor,this bad boy is probably sending the wrong reading to the ecu there for not allowing fuel enrichment on cold starts (fast idle warm up).I have seen them a lot, they come to the shop stumbling only on cold starts.Never had a Honda though they read but read incorrect so the ecu don't send out a dtc.If you have a scanner that reads live data, and a digital multimeter that reads temp,its just a matter of comparing the reading the ecu is getting from the temp sensor,and actually measuring the coolant with the meter to see if the temp sensor is reading correctly.

 

yeah im pretty sure it is something electronic just really wierd and not having a cel pop sucks.

ive done the valve lash just about every 15k not 100% sure i understand where your going with that idea?

i did the fuel filter at 75k ? again not to sure about that.

i drive the car 5 miles to work and 5 miles home every day but i drive it 300 miles out of state every weekend where the rpms stay at almost 4k for 2 hours at 80mph ehhhhhhh i know I know sometime i notice the rpm breaking up a little like sputtering dying a little but besides that theres nothing else i can think of.
how should i go about checking those sensors? check voltage?

thanks

 

My guess, Ignitor or main fuel relay

 

So it should be warm by the time your driving when it still "crackles and pops"? If the ect was at fault wouldn't it be sending a more accurate signal by then to be close enough to not cause that once its warm? I second xenocron's "guess"

 

would you have any problem with me dropping the car off in a week or so?
i understand that you guys are bizzy all the time


ignitor?

 

contact me via email...ill see what I can do

 

But then why would it only affect cold starts,i'm not trying to start no big argument or flame wars,just asking

 

Change the engine coolant temp sensor.. Make sure you get the right one. If memory serves me correctly, there are three of them. The one in the t-stat housing is a fan switch. The single wire one in the head below the dist is the gauge sender. The one you want is the two wire one next to it.

 

Because metal expands or contracts with heat/cold

As it warms up and hits that "spot" some metal on metal contact is losing its touch...either slightly and causing a high amount of current or not at all...

 

so long story short...
I was driving on the highway and the car became much worse breaking up at higher rpms and sputtering. i replaced my distributor and boom no more problem and the car does not die in the morning on cold days it runs like i assume it would brand new. I had a feeling it was the ignition control module inside the dizzy so Xenocron was right im just glad to get the car running normal again.

it was just something i automatically crossed off considering a replaced it not to long ago. thanks for the help