CO2 O2
Test RPM MEAS MEAS
15mph 1739 14.40 0.44
25mph 1884 14.50 0.38

HC (PPM)
Test MAX AVG MEAS
15mph 81 27 64
25mph 91 21 54

CO%
Test MAX AVG MEAS
15mph 0.74 0.16 0.32
25mph 0.62 0.11 0.33

NO (PPM)
Test RPM MAX AVG MEAS
15mph 554 270 1163 (FAIL)
25mph 511 207 0972 (FAIL)

15mph FAIL
25mph FAIL

This are my numbers, the knox is killing me, if Im reading correctly, Im running abit hot. Im thinking of cleaning out my EGR valve and EGR Ports free from carbon build up. Also, thinking of swaping out my irridium plugs out for a cooler set of plugs, maybe like those cheap copper Autolite plugs, just to pass smog.
Anyone have else have any great ideas, based off my numbers? Feel free to get back at me.
I think we are dealing with a new smog test out in California, they are trying to make harder and more difficult to smog our cb7, I think they want them off the roads, but they can kiss my ****** ***, I'm gonna nail this smog issue.

 

This is normally simply egr system all gunked up. When you clean it out, it should reduce your HC too.

It would be best to pull the intake manifold and do the full egr plug set pull. There are write-ups here on how to do it. It's not the easiest job overall, it's a bit time consuming, but it will get you better gas mileage in the end too.

If you're lucky, when you pull the intake manifold and it doesn't tear anywhere on the gasket, you can get by without having to take off the old gasket, but you need to be sure that there are no tears whatsoever. If it tears anywhere, it's best to replace the gasket using a razor blade to remove every single piece of the gasket no matter how small by scraping it with the long edge, don't use the corner or you will scratch the head, after removing the studs. You can remove the studs by using two nuts and putting them on the stud, and tightening the outside nut while holding the inner nut with an open end wrench. Tighten it really tight, then use a socket to remove the outside nut and it should pull the entire stud out.

 

Thanks, thats going abit and beyond, though its a good idea, im stiking to the egr valve and ports. In have taken off an intake manifold in the past, im gonna avoid that job if I can. Im half way through the job as we speak, I will post up my results.

 

Its failed today on a 2nd retest, number came out abit worst. Im leaning towards a new CAT, i got one those cheap kind u weld on. Its been about four to five years max that I slapt it on.
Anyone know of a cheap site to get another cheap as CAT online?
My best quote i got was $158.00 out the door, at our local Napa autoparts.
Anyone?

 

Can you post your new test results? What is your O2% reading?

 

http://www.walkerexhaust.com/catalog/ecatalog_CARB.asp

www.advanceautoparts.com search for " 80301", add it to your cart. Then apply coupon code NVB9. That's probably going to be your best deal.

 

I used a universal cat for 99 camry a few years ago - I think I paid 90 bucks (Pep Boys) and it's lasted for 4 years so far. You will need access to a welder.

Basically, I took the old cat out, and welded it into a "jig". I then cut out the old cat (carbon cutting wheel), and slipped the new one into it's place, welded up tight, and cut the cat from it's jig. You can try welding without using a jig, but getting the right fitment when you're done isn't going to be easy.

Before you take the test again, remember these rules for "cheating"...1) over inflate your tires to at least 40psi. 2) remove your power steering pump belt, and ac belt 3) Remove your air filter 4) tune up and oil change.

Good luck, keep us posted!

 

holmesnmanny,
My CAT needs to be welded on, how do I specify that while I odere it on line?

 

fred demara, I dont know all about that, u for real?

 

dude just go with a bolt on aftermarket. I recommend MagnaFlow.

might be more expensive but you won't need a jig, welder, and all that jazz... just pb blaster, a torch, and an impact gun

 

He is, but has no clue as to how the emissions systems work, he'll recommend an underdrive pulley next

laloquera916 did you test your EGR valve with vacuum to see if the diaphragm functions? Did you remove each plug in each runner and thoroughly clean them out?
http://home.comcast.net/~em-engineering/T2T013.pdf
Honda has the replacement plug kits.

As for finding a catalyst cheaper here in CA, probably not. New laws enacted due to subpar replacement catalysts being installed, now the state CARB/BAR require that replacement units have the E.O# stamped into the case. Ergo $$$$.

Why does it need to be welded? The original catalyst was bolted to the down pipe from the manifold, and then bolted again to the mid pipe.
RockAuto sells a Walker replacement bolt in unit. Or has your exhaust been modified from stock?

 

Yes, by doing so, you will free up at least 10hp - your test measures the amount of emissions created to produce X amount of work...if you are able to reduce the amount of fuel needed to perform the same amount of work, your emissions drop. I did the above a few days after failing, and passed. It'll help if you are close.

You got real quiet when I offered to wager you on it...it's only 100 bucks, if you're so sure

The cheaper universal cats have to be welded to fit.

 

Fred, you got any good snake oil I can buy ?

 

Sometimes on cars as old as ours, the exhaust is so bad that it could just break apart when you try to replace it. You can get a bolt on, or you can get a cheaper universal and have an exhaust shop weld it on for like 40 or 50 bucks. What I did was I had the same exhaust shop put an exhaust kit on for another $150. It's up to you.

That Walker cat that I quoted is only $63. That's a great deal.

 

You man enough for a friendly wager?

 

You mean where you posted about dynoing your Odyssey to prove a point that had nothing to do with the discussion of emissions? Yeah, that was awesome on your part.

How does one respond to a 'challenge' that has no applicable value in the discussion at hand? Very easily one does not. I do not care to engage in an act of trolling. There is an old saying, which has it's origins in Proverbs 26:4, "Never argue with stupid people, they will drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience." You clearly have the upper hand in this.

Did you watch some movie in film school on 'The Great Imposter' and thought it would make for a great handle?
Forevermore I shall call thee Waldo.

 

It is directly applicable to the value of the discussion at hand. The idea of increasing your HP to pass a smog test is pretty simple, and something that's been done since there were smog tests.

This is a copy of smog test I failed, then passed on the retest. The 1st test was early august, 2009, the retest was a few days later, 8/16/09.

I was about 1200 on the 25/25 test for NO (1014 allowed) and 1150ish on the 50/15 (1110 allowed).

After reading a few posts online (one from Pat Goss), I removed the air filter (freeing up hp), over inflated the tires (reducing rolling resistance), and removed the powersteering and ac belt (freeing up additional hp).

After doing the items above, I got 1004 on the 25/25 and 960 on the 50/15. I made no other changes to the car.

A rolling smog test is a measure of a fixed amount of work. If you increase your hp, and do the same amount of work, you burn less fuel, and have lower emissions across the board.

I've had one friend who was also very close on his smog, who did the following, who passed. I've also had one that tried this, had his number improve, but who still failed (he was way over).

It's not difficult to understand, it's knowledge that's been around for years and years, and it's totally free (almost, I had to buy a shorter belt that would allow the alt. to work) and it only takes a few minutes to do them all.

 

LOL, no..did read the book a few years ago.

Calling me Waldo is fine, and certainly you can understand (given your recent posts) why you have earned the moniker "Beavis"

 

This thread has gone beyond me. Anyoways, i did checkthe egr valve for suction, its good. Pulled the plugs out and cliean out the ports, and my car did fail for a second time.
My original CAT was replace by a cut out and and needed to welded into place, i cannot bolt another one on.
So when I order online how do I order ther right CAT?

 

That's why I suggested the universal one. You're going to need to have it welded on, so get the universal one.

 

I just realized I gave you the wrong part number. The correct one if you get a walker cat is the " 80301" part number. I updated the earlier post.

 

K thanks. how mutch is shipping and how long does it take to get here?

 

that is a question best answered by the vendor selling you the product my friend.

 

Just got dealing with Advance Auto Zone, they dont have part for to be shiped to California at the moment.
Anyone have an alternative online verndor that has a cheap (Universal) California CAT at a cheap price for my 92cb7 coupe LX?
Thanks

 

Google The PArt Number You need