Story
- I was driving one day on the highway at speeds of about 65mph and my rpm and mph needles dropped to zero and went back to normal quickly as if I turned the car off and back on. As soon as I get off the exit the car completely shuts off while driving with no hesitation.

BTW my car is completely stock with only 94k miles.

Things I've done and checked
- Tried to get a jump and nothing happened
- Battery is good, because my headlights work and I also had it tested.
- The car does crank but wont start.

Functional:
-Headlights, power locks and Radio, and the car does crack like it wants to start.

Non Functional
-Power Windows, clock, fuel pump doesn't turn on, instrument cluster does not work at all.

Now I did get the car to start and running for about 1 min and the instrument cluster worked, power windows, the clock etc like it should but it just shut off again and ONLY the things I listed under "non functional was no longer functional.

I searched but couldn't any "threads with my particular problem. So if you guys can be kind enough to assist me I would greatly appreciate it.

Oh and sorry for the long post. Just being as descriptive as possible.

Thank you!

 

sounds an awful lot like ignition switch.

 

i agree, check the ignition switch... thats about the only thing that would tie the windows and the fuel pump together, they are entirely separate circuits

 

with your key turned to "on" ignition 1 should become energized with 12vdc... one of the ways you can check that is to use a multimeter, or a test light if thats your thing and wee if you get voltage to "ignition1" on the back of the ignition switch. If you dont know what one it is there is about 4 fuses and a bunch of other places that you can check to see if they get voltage with the key "on" fuse number 14 which is for the windshield washer motor, fuses 24 and 25 which are for srs and fuse 15 which would kill cluster, integrated control unit and a ton of other things. with ignition "1" not getting 12vdc the coil will never get voltage either

 

you dont need to change the whole tumbler assembly either, just remove the steering column cover, the underdash cover also. once those are removed you can not only see the ignition switch, but be able to remove it also. remove the 2 Phillips head screws pull the ignition swithch away from the column, there is a small ziptie tiedown that holds the wire harness to the column. remove the tiedown by depressing the "locking tabs" then just follow the harness plugs to the fusebox and unplug them. install the new one in the reverse direction. I am will to guarantee that will fix the problem and that "El Crapiton" hit the nail on the head

 

lastly, "ignition 1" is the black wire with the yellow tracer on the back of the ignition switch. with the key "on" it should read 12volts dc or illuminate your test light.

if it does and none of the fuses i listed before do i would be led to believe you have an aftermarket alarm which to install you have to cut that wire in half and splice the alarm into it. maybe one of the yellow 10/12awg buttsplices has a poor to no connection

 

could also be as simple as a poor contact in the switch. sometimes a little emery cloth is all it takes. or even a reflow of solder to a cracked joint. the "run" circuit goes through a lot of what's called electrical wear.
but yes, perform the above mentioned tests first. then, once the problem is identified, remove the switch for a closer inspection. as mentioned, super easy to pull with the cover off

 

touche! this is also correct... and much easier than removing the whole switch if you can fix it id go that route...

 

Ok thank you soo much guys and i forgot to mention that I do have a clifford alarm with a blackjack that requires a code to even start the car. Maybe that eventually went bad? But i had that alarm on the car for about 2 years with no problems.

 

aftermarket installations are always a great place to start if an electrical circuit issue seems to be tied to it.
check for battery voltage at the blk/ylw tracer wire at the ig. switch with the key in the on position, as described

 

just remove the lower column (dash) cover there will be a bigger (10awg) wire there, a few actually... the one you want is the blk/ylw its )black with a yellow tracer...) see if it goes into the alarm, im sure it does and check for 12vdc as close to the alarm input as possible with the key in the "on" position. Then check for that same 12vdc at the same blk/ylw wire exiting the alarm it also should be 12vdc. the wire coming from the ignition switch is the supply (input) to the alarm... This is the first place i would check, cause itll tell you 2 things, one if theres not 12vdc going into the alarm then the ignition is the culprit. If there is, but it isnt coming out of the alarm then the alarm or alarm connections are the culprit... hope this helps

 

that there is good stuff

 

Thanks bro^ i created this account like 3 yrs ago and never really used it... well since then ive googled a few things. mostly wiring pinouts/diagrams, but i always come across peeps and their problems they are having and see them get guided in the wrong direction. i decided to start answering to some of these problems lol. so im finally setting up my profile somewhat. even got some good pics in, but apparently they only let you add 60. i only got one category of projects covered with those pics and ran out of room haha, peep em tho and tell me what you think... theres some goodies in the pics

 

Thanks again im going to check that when I get home. Honda-Tech needs more helpful individuals like you. Haha