Dyno results for f20b stroker
I don't have the graph yet, but the motor that I was posting all the questions for has been dyno tuned now at 262 whp and a max of 193 wheel torque.
For some reason the torque drops flat on its face at 7800 so there is definitely room for more power with this setup.
Some of the basic specs:
skunk2 pro 2 cams
skunk2 intake manifold
highend tri y and 3" catback exhaust
f23a 97mm crank and forged rods
forged k24 pisons
I will post up a dyno hopefully later tonight.
For some reason the torque drops flat on its face at 7800 so there is definitely room for more power with this setup.
Some of the basic specs:
skunk2 pro 2 cams
skunk2 intake manifold
highend tri y and 3" catback exhaust
f23a 97mm crank and forged rods
forged k24 pisons
I will post up a dyno hopefully later tonight.
Nice Job... good #'s 275 should be achievable 
What hp does this dyno put down on a typical stock H22? Dyno jet or dynapack?
Compression is about what 11-8-1?
Curious do a compression test on all cylinders to see what it is now
Stock port head?
What F23 forged rods did you go with?
Keep us updated on how long it lasts... Definetly a build I am considering on doing... my fingers are ancy to order up a F20B

What hp does this dyno put down on a typical stock H22? Dyno jet or dynapack?
Compression is about what 11-8-1?
Curious do a compression test on all cylinders to see what it is now
Stock port head?
What F23 forged rods did you go with?
Keep us updated on how long it lasts... Definetly a build I am considering on doing... my fingers are ancy to order up a F20B
The tuner was actually shocked. He said the setup put out 30 more hp than he expected; and 40+ torque more than he expected. I asked what most h's with cams and i/h/e do and he said about 150 torque and 220 whp or so.
I will ask him what model the dyno is but he says its a very conservative dyno.
The motor puts down 153 foot pounds of torque at 2200 rpms and carries out a good level of torque to 7800 but power falls flat on its face right there.
I am pretty sure the header is limiting the setup since I have a review of the header and it falls at that point.
I will ask him what model the dyno is but he says its a very conservative dyno.
The motor puts down 153 foot pounds of torque at 2200 rpms and carries out a good level of torque to 7800 but power falls flat on its face right there.
I am pretty sure the header is limiting the setup since I have a review of the header and it falls at that point.
I am not sure what the compression is now, but after putting oil in the cylinders that were low, the numbers jumped up to around 280 psi.
According the the H/F compression calculator (using the piston specs / head specs and crank I used) its around 12.1, but I don't think that is right on.
According the the H/F compression calculator (using the piston specs / head specs and crank I used) its around 12.1, but I don't think that is right on.
Might be the header... you are right it does become limiting when your in the 260+ range. I would ask NAh2b see what he recommends. Seems like you have the Cam settings where most recommend?
However your issue now is if you really want to spend more $
you made good power with this simpler setup. If you opt for a good expensive header which may gain you 10-15 hp now. Then your opening up can of worms... then you will want to take the head off do a full PNP preferably CNC. Then a better intake manifold... excessive seems to have a decent H22 intake manifold for the price.
Do a compression check on the motor now just so you know where your at after the dyno then check every few weeks if you daily it. I do this to all motors I build so I know how it is doing. Same with checking plugs.
This is with H22 transmission correct? not H2B?
However your issue now is if you really want to spend more $
you made good power with this simpler setup. If you opt for a good expensive header which may gain you 10-15 hp now. Then your opening up can of worms... then you will want to take the head off do a full PNP preferably CNC. Then a better intake manifold... excessive seems to have a decent H22 intake manifold for the price.
Do a compression check on the motor now just so you know where your at after the dyno then check every few weeks if you daily it. I do this to all motors I build so I know how it is doing. Same with checking plugs.
This is with H22 transmission correct? not H2B?
This is h2b with the Evolution kit. The transmission is a 99 si tranny (s4) using a 4.266 final drive but the 2-4th gears are shorter from the jdm b16 I don't have the exact specs.
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The tuner degreed cams to skunk2 specs.
The tune is on 93 octane.
The throttle body is 70mm.
The tune was almost 700$, sucks... Tuned at lifeline performance in rochester by Rich.
The exhaust system is way fatter than the header, I think the header is less than 2.5." I guess I will leave it until money starts burning a hole in my pocket. This is my first motor build actually.
The tune is on 93 octane.
The throttle body is 70mm.
The tune was almost 700$, sucks... Tuned at lifeline performance in rochester by Rich.
The exhaust system is way fatter than the header, I think the header is less than 2.5." I guess I will leave it until money starts burning a hole in my pocket. This is my first motor build actually.
first motor build, congrats! that's a huge step sir.
$700 is a lot but honestly you can't put a really solid number on learning.
If you had a group of friends who were regular customers of a shop , most tuners do adjust their pricing somewhat. The last time my tuner charged $700 was for a GTR.
change out that header and you may fine some more ponies up top.
honestly i think you should of made more power.
I say that because we a client come in with 95mm x 82mm gsr stroker (bigtube header, skunk2 IM + tuner2, semiported head) and it made 250whp with 170tq....
Weird that a 97mm stroke vtec motor would make 27whp only.
$700 is a lot but honestly you can't put a really solid number on learning.
If you had a group of friends who were regular customers of a shop , most tuners do adjust their pricing somewhat. The last time my tuner charged $700 was for a GTR.
change out that header and you may fine some more ponies up top.
honestly i think you should of made more power.
I say that because we a client come in with 95mm x 82mm gsr stroker (bigtube header, skunk2 IM + tuner2, semiported head) and it made 250whp with 170tq....
Weird that a 97mm stroke vtec motor would make 27whp only.
Last edited by Charlie Moua; Nov 9, 2012 at 04:49 AM.
I am really thinking it can make more power too. I was hoping to rev out to 8500 or possibly higher. But my brother seems to think it feels like a 12 second car on street tires.
The tuner charged 400 for tuning, and then 160 for degreeing the cams but then added an extra hour or 2 because he said he couldn't fit the wheel on the crankshaft without dropping the motor a little bit (no room between the h and frame).
I might daily drive it. The tuner said it should be perfectly fine to daily drive.
The tuner charged 400 for tuning, and then 160 for degreeing the cams but then added an extra hour or 2 because he said he couldn't fit the wheel on the crankshaft without dropping the motor a little bit (no room between the h and frame).
I might daily drive it. The tuner said it should be perfectly fine to daily drive.
Your limiting factors will be the header, head work (pnp), intake manifold. You open all these up more... there will be power... better air flow, more fuel, more power. However pro 2's I think will tap you out around 275-280
I would mic your header you have find out what the inside diameter is through out. I don't think you will benefit by doing like a 3" collector on the header... 2.5" should be fine. I have seen a lot of dyno investment on collector sizes with a built b21 motor and it liked little less then 2.5". 3" I think would loose some power down low.
I would mic your header you have find out what the inside diameter is through out. I don't think you will benefit by doing like a 3" collector on the header... 2.5" should be fine. I have seen a lot of dyno investment on collector sizes with a built b21 motor and it liked little less then 2.5". 3" I think would loose some power down low.
with a f23 crank.. to get the most life out of your build and reduce wear i wouldn't daily drive it .......
sure it can be driven on the street but doesn't mean you should daily it.
have fun with the new power, save money, get a better header and slowly grow/increase power as you go. if you drive your car hard, it would be good practice to check the rod bearings ever year and replace as needed.
sure it can be driven on the street but doesn't mean you should daily it.
have fun with the new power, save money, get a better header and slowly grow/increase power as you go. if you drive your car hard, it would be good practice to check the rod bearings ever year and replace as needed.
Joseph, I will bring it down to the shop one of these days. My brother said thanks for doing a great job on our transmission. We really have a nice gearing setup; although the 4.4 final drive would be a little faster in an all out drag setup; the 4.26 final drive that we have in this setup is easier for street use and I am not regretting using that.





