Like so many others out there, I am attempting to to diagnose my integra's water leak into the rear hatch/trunk area. I've done my research, and it doesn't appear to be leaking from the common culprits (i.e., tail light gaskets, sun roof drainage tubes, rear window spray nozzle, etc).

After removing the rear tail lights, I noticed what appears to be seam sealer on the outer side of either tail light. On the driver side, it is significantly cracking, creating a perfect entry way for water into the hatch of my car! It is also slightly cracking on the passenger side but not nearly as much.

Now, here's why I'm posting: seam sealer doesn't normally crack.

My car has had professional body work done in the past on the driver side rear quarter panel. I want to make sure that this is indeed seam sealer that is cracking and not some shabby bondo job . Again, the body work was done by a professional, reputable shop. The "seam sealer" appears to be from the factory, and it is the exact same on both driver and passenger side tail lights. There has never been any body work done to the passenger side of the vehicle.

Here are some pictures:

 

The very last picture also shows how the seam sealer on the inside of the vehicle has come apart slightly, but there are no real signs of water entering here... :/

 

replace the tail light gaskets. solved the problem for me.

 

Update:

So it's currently raining, and water is definitely coming in where the seam sealer is cracked on the interior (see the last picture). Any ideas on the proper way to fix this? Sand/grind down the sealer and reseal?

Still waiting to hear what people think regarding the cracks right behind where the tail light seats. Does it look like body filler that is cracking? Or more likely painted from the factory seam sealer?

 

You said, "on the driver side rear quarter panel" was that due to an impact or the rear wheel arch rot common to the Integra, [and all Honda/Acura with rear wheel arch "protectors"].

If it was because of impact, then impact can easily crack seam sealer, it looks a little too smooth on the outside to be stock, [pic 5] like it was sanded, stock seam sealer is not sanded, it retains the brush marks of the applicator.

If I was to guess, it looks like the spot welds that held the rear panel to the rear side panel "popped" and were not re-welded before seam sealer was applied, leading to movement/flex resulting in the seam sealer cracking.

The fix is to remove the seam sealer, weld, re-apply seam sealer.

Either way you will have to remove the seam sealer to make a repair, once removed you will see of the spot welds have popped. 94

 

It seems hard to call whether that is factory or not. Where was the quarter panel hit?

It could be that the body tech may have overlooked the damage to the seam sealer(remember nobody's perfect). Most reputable body shops warrenty their work for the life of the vehicle. You might want to save yourself the headache and take it back to them with your concerns. I say this because, done right obviously there will be paint involved and the average Joe just isn't equipped to do it properly.

Ohh yea....doesn't look like body filler, and shouldn't be. That appears to be seam sealer.

 

Thanks for the reply... this is exactly what I was looking for. The previous repairs were due to a parking lot impact, but the impact was about 5 inches above the rear wheel arch. It was not even near the rear tail light. I understand your logic though, and how this impact could "pop" one or two of the spot welds. Looks like this is going to be more work than I anticipated.

 

As Creator mentioned, most body shops will warranty their work for life, I would go back to them and see what they say, before you try anything yourself.

It. is not that big of a job, as for paint, I would not worry about that, it is under the tail light assembly, so a rattle can will work.

Biggest issue will be the welding, but there I would just use a few steel pop rivets if you do not have access to a welding machine.

Remove as much seam sealer as you can, drill a few 1/8" holes where metal overlaps, separate the metal and inject some seam sealer then pop rivet the sheet metal together, cover with seam sealer, rattle can it with matching paint, done like dinner.

Or prep it, take it to a body shop and have them weld it, then you do the seam sealer and finnish it off, I can't see that costing you more then a 6 pack.

I showed your pics to a few guys at body shops we work for, [A/C work] most of the guys would have done the welding, [if prepped] for a large Tim Hortons coffee and a 6 pack of TimBits, one of them wanted a 6 pack of beer all said it was no more then 10min work. 94