Aftermarket stereo issues..no power?
Hey guys, I'm new here and glad to be a part of the Honda/Acura community. I recently purchased a beater '98 Integra LS. The seller threw in a used stereo that wasn't installed, the stock stereo had already been removed.
I spliced all the wires correctly and it would not turn on. I figured it was the stereo itself, so I bought a cheap new one, again had to splice the wires, but again still no power. I checked and replaced the fuses for the stereo, as well as that for dash clock (found through searching that sometimes that fuse can be related to stereo issues too). But still, with a new stereo and new fuses, no power.
I've installed aftermarket stereos myself in every car I've ever owned and never had issues like this, I'm all out of ideas. I checked and rechecked the wiring and it should all be correct. What should I try next?
I spliced all the wires correctly and it would not turn on. I figured it was the stereo itself, so I bought a cheap new one, again had to splice the wires, but again still no power. I checked and replaced the fuses for the stereo, as well as that for dash clock (found through searching that sometimes that fuse can be related to stereo issues too). But still, with a new stereo and new fuses, no power.
I've installed aftermarket stereos myself in every car I've ever owned and never had issues like this, I'm all out of ideas. I checked and rechecked the wiring and it should all be correct. What should I try next?
just wondering, because you didnt mention it,but is the fuse on the cd player ok?
have you gotten a mutlimeter and checked if the power wire is giving 12v?
check the grounds,and does the dash clock come on?
i know on my jvc head units,i thought it wasnt getting power but i didnt realize i had to hold a button to turn it on.
have you gotten a mutlimeter and checked if the power wire is giving 12v?
check the grounds,and does the dash clock come on?
i know on my jvc head units,i thought it wasnt getting power but i didnt realize i had to hold a button to turn it on.
just wondering, because you didnt mention it,but is the fuse on the cd player ok?
have you gotten a mutlimeter and checked if the power wire is giving 12v?
check the grounds,and does the dash clock come on?
i know on my jvc head units,i thought it wasnt getting power but i didnt realize i had to hold a button to turn it on.
have you gotten a mutlimeter and checked if the power wire is giving 12v?
check the grounds,and does the dash clock come on?
i know on my jvc head units,i thought it wasnt getting power but i didnt realize i had to hold a button to turn it on.
Also, many aftermarket head units need more power than the factory power line is intended to provide, and the correct thing to do is run straight from the battery with an inline fuse.
Last edited by TunerN00b; Oct 26, 2012 at 05:22 PM. Reason: fcm is correct
There are two (2) fuses for the stock radio harness..
The memory fuse, [12V+ constant/hot at all times] is fuse 47, [#11 on panel cover]- 7.5A in engine bay fuse box, it is labeled back up.
The acc. fuse. [12V+ switched/hot in acc. and run] is fuse 28 [# 7 on panel cover] - 10A in under dash fuse box, labled radio/cigarette lighter.
What TunerN00b is saying is correct, the aftermarket HUs main power is the 12V+ constant lead, [yellow] and needs more currant then the stock 12V+ constant, [memory power] lead can supply, [as the 7.5A fuse is just memory for the stock radio and ECU/ECM]
DO NOT replace the 7.5A fuse with a bigger one, as mentioned, the best way to insure the aftermarket HU gets the current it needs is the run a fused 12ga lead from the batt. to behind the HU and connect the HUs 12V+ constant lead, [yellow] to it.
Don't forget to cap off the stock 12V+ constant lead so it can't short out, power is still needed for the ECU/ECM memory.
Also, unless you are using a metal back brace off the aftermarket HU to the stock metal rear support brace, [you should be] you will need to run a 12ga ground "strap" from the chassis of the HU to the cars chassis, you can leave the aftermarket HUs black ground lead connected to the stock radio harness ground, [also black]. 94
The memory fuse, [12V+ constant/hot at all times] is fuse 47, [#11 on panel cover]- 7.5A in engine bay fuse box, it is labeled back up.
The acc. fuse. [12V+ switched/hot in acc. and run] is fuse 28 [# 7 on panel cover] - 10A in under dash fuse box, labled radio/cigarette lighter.
What TunerN00b is saying is correct, the aftermarket HUs main power is the 12V+ constant lead, [yellow] and needs more currant then the stock 12V+ constant, [memory power] lead can supply, [as the 7.5A fuse is just memory for the stock radio and ECU/ECM]
DO NOT replace the 7.5A fuse with a bigger one, as mentioned, the best way to insure the aftermarket HU gets the current it needs is the run a fused 12ga lead from the batt. to behind the HU and connect the HUs 12V+ constant lead, [yellow] to it.
Don't forget to cap off the stock 12V+ constant lead so it can't short out, power is still needed for the ECU/ECM memory.
Also, unless you are using a metal back brace off the aftermarket HU to the stock metal rear support brace, [you should be] you will need to run a 12ga ground "strap" from the chassis of the HU to the cars chassis, you can leave the aftermarket HUs black ground lead connected to the stock radio harness ground, [also black]. 94
make sure u have a 12V constant, 12V Acc that turns on and off with your key and a solid ground. did you use a seperate wire harness with your radio or did u just splice all the factory wires directly to the radio?
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