I got a 94 teg that won't start. Just bought it for 400 bucks, I'm getting no spark and the distributor looks like it has been recently replaced. Any Ideas on what it could be other than the distributor before I go buyin one?

 

Get what you paid for even if you have to buy a new distributor your still doin good. check for 12volts at green and yellow or black wire not sure this early in morning.....pretty sure there is another thread with the same year that another member has posted

 

ylw/blk wire to the dizzy should have 12v.

update after you find out.

 

Thank you for the confirming color

 

Yes, black/yellow is switched 12V+ and needs to be hot when ign. switch is in both the run AND start positions,

Ign. switch problems are common on older Honda/Acura...
http://www.visualimpressions.ca/switch/
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html

We replace 3-4 Honda/Acura ign. switches every year.

Another thing you should check is power to IGP1 and IGP2 at the ECU/ECM, [also with ign. switch in both the run and start positions] that 12V+ "signal" is supplied by the fuel injector relay in the PGM-FI Main Relay, wire color is yellow/black for both IGP1&2 and are the only two (2) yellow/black leads going to the ECU/ECM. 94

 

I didnt have an ohm meter but I used a test light and I'm getting power to the distributor so I'm pretty sure it's gonna be the distributor. Also, I took the dist cap off and you know how there is another little black cover inside? That was actually busted and in peices inside. Doesn't look like any wires are cut but there was a big chunk missing and in pieces. So i'm thinking something has to be wrong with it to cause that but Im not sure exactly what.

I'm the manager at a used car lot and I have a thing for integras. A guy was buying a car and was telling me about the integra and I told him to bring it in and id take it for 400 for the trade in on the vehicle. Thats how I ended up getting the car. Working at a used dealership you get all kinds of deals. it's insane. Only bad thing is I ran a compression test on the engine and came up with this:

From left to right:
cylinder 1 : 20
cylinder 2 : 30
cylinder 3 : 90
cylinder 4 : 120

I was told it should be at 120 or more so apparently the motor is about gone, but like I said, I paid scrap price for the vehicle so I'm still thinkin its a good find.

 

I wouldn't worry too much about getting it started at this point. That motor is toast.

 

Was the engine at op temp, butterfly all the way open, and all plugs removed?

 

Those bad compression numbers may just be the result of a "tight" valve adjustment.

I would do a leak down test, even a lash adjustment before I write the engine off.

Standard compression is 199psi, [270psi for the B18C1/5] minimum is 140psi with no more then 28psi diff. between cylinders.

What was the PSI on each cylinder on the first compression stroke, [first time needle moved up]?

The broken/missing piece(s) in the distributor is most likely the "Leak Cover" and in itself would not prevent engine starting, [spark], and although low compression would prevent engine starting, it would not prevent spark.

Did you check for power at IGP1&2 at the ECU/ECM yet?

Do you hear the fuel pump priming when you turn on the ign. switch?

Test for power at the fuel injectors, [lead that is the same color at all 4 injectors] your test light is fine for that, no power at the injectors will most likely mean no power at IGP1&2 and no fuel pump priming.

Wasn't going to say anything, however, it's pretty hard to get an engine, that will not start, up to operating temperature, obviously. 94

 

looks like im going to have to spend 150 for a dizzy just to see if its worth keeping or not, the teg is an auto which has me thinking twice about it. The whole reason I bought the car is because my girl wanted a civic real bad. I ended up talking her out of it and getting interested in the integras. I'm in a situation now because if the motor is blown I don't even know if itll be worth fixin. All I would do is keep it stock because to me theres no point in building a motor for an auto. Itll take a lot more to get an auto fast. If it was a 5spd it would be worth fixing cuz I could just build the motor up. So let me know what you guys think. Worth fixin or not??

I'll post up some pics in a new thread as soon as this weather lets up, prob thursday night or so, that'll help you guys with your decision. It's black but its a faded flat black. minor rust on the rear side skirt panel. Nothing major. If the dizzy fixes it and the compression isnt too bad at opperating temp then id have a nice beater for 400+150 for dizzy and about 30 for new hood latch so for 580 it wouldnt be too bad of an investment.Lets just pray the compression will raise up. I dont know how long the car was sittin, if it was sittin for awhile it could be a valve stuck and as soon as I crank it, the compression could jump back up

 

I would most def follow FCM advice

 

Does the engine turn over and do you hear any noises when you try to start it? BTW bro You can do way better than $150 for a dizzy...Look around I have seen them for as cheap as $60 for a dizzy. Check your Coil and ICM first cause that could also save you a lot of money. Plus I would just replace the Rotor cause that is busted for sure(that was the black piece you were looking at after you took the cap off) you can find those for around $10 to $20 on ebay