Failed smog, helpppp
Not sure why it failed.
I changed the oil, spark plugs, ran sea foam through it and did the guaranteed to pass thing through the tank. Filled it up with Cheveron 91, drove it up and down freeway right into smog shop.
I replaced the cat about 500 miles ago with a hunch that my old one was bad - new cat is good.
Car does not smoke, smells a little rich for first few minutes after I start it up but it goes away. Small amount of black soot on bumper.
Taking it back to the shop but they said it's about $100/hr and that's the norm for around here. But If I can tell them what to start with maybe that will lower the time - they said it'd take two hours so $200.
I don't have any check engine lights nor have I had any since I owned the car.
Attached are the pictures of my failed test and pictures of the spark plugs in case anyone notices something funny about them.
Only things I can think of..
Timing? Report says it was 17 BTDC
Sensor that calculates air/fuel ratio?
Helpppp
Oops, meant to post this is the Type R section. Going to post there..
I changed the oil, spark plugs, ran sea foam through it and did the guaranteed to pass thing through the tank. Filled it up with Cheveron 91, drove it up and down freeway right into smog shop.
I replaced the cat about 500 miles ago with a hunch that my old one was bad - new cat is good.
Car does not smoke, smells a little rich for first few minutes after I start it up but it goes away. Small amount of black soot on bumper.
Taking it back to the shop but they said it's about $100/hr and that's the norm for around here. But If I can tell them what to start with maybe that will lower the time - they said it'd take two hours so $200.
I don't have any check engine lights nor have I had any since I owned the car.
Attached are the pictures of my failed test and pictures of the spark plugs in case anyone notices something funny about them.
Only things I can think of..
Timing? Report says it was 17 BTDC
Sensor that calculates air/fuel ratio?
Helpppp
Oops, meant to post this is the Type R section. Going to post there..
Last edited by ohnoitsryan; Apr 18, 2017 at 05:48 AM.
So this is an ITR? Year and mileage please. You changed your cat on a hunch? With an OEM or aftermarket one? Do you still have your old (OEM) cat? Why does the visual inspection note "tampered" and "modified"?
Haven't taken distributor off at all. Can I take it off safely without messing up the timing to check it out?
ITR is a 2000 with 116k. Changed cat with OEM one. The only mods on the car are the cold air intake and header - both carb legal.
Visual inspection failed because the guy didn't see the carb legal sticker for the header in my glove box.
ITR is a 2000 with 116k. Changed cat with OEM one. The only mods on the car are the cold air intake and header - both carb legal.
Visual inspection failed because the guy didn't see the carb legal sticker for the header in my glove box.
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are you willing to drill and tap a bung into the exhaust system upstream of the cat to take pre cat readings? because that will give you the clearest picture of what's going on here, without any guessing.
but first, check for codes. regardless of an illuminated CEL
also, o2 sensor will not cause high hc or nox. they could cause a lean misfire, however, looking at the o2 readings, he is not running lean
but first, check for codes. regardless of an illuminated CEL
also, o2 sensor will not cause high hc or nox. they could cause a lean misfire, however, looking at the o2 readings, he is not running lean
Last edited by el crapitan; Oct 21, 2012 at 08:41 AM.
Or you can check the cats inlet temp compared to outlet temp should be 100 degrees or 10% hotter. This should be done at op temp on engine and at 2500 rpm while collecting readings. Also hitting cat with a rubber mallet a good way to hear if material has been loosened. Drilling into an exhaust could be harder more intrusive make sure you seal up hole good after or your front o2 will get a bad reading of more o2(exhaust leak)
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