oh my god..i need this fixed before i get stranded or worse..PLEASE HELP


After about an hour of driving,my car will start hesitating out of nowhere.

when it does it,i press the gas pedal and it falls flat on it's face,then burst to life,then fall on it's face,then burst to life.i cant even get it to move more than an inch at a time..i have to roll it with whatever juice i can get out of it..

if i sit in neutral and hold the gas pedal,it will rev,then fall down on the rpms,then rev up,then fall down..the whole time i am holding the gas to the floor.the more gas i give,the harder it falls on it's face..

i really dont know a better way to describe it,i was hoping to go start the car back up and get it to do it so i could get a video up,but i started it right back up and it stopped doing it..but it's been doing this for a while now.it feels like its getting plugged up or something(???)..i just thought it stopped because i usually only drive short distances...it really really really sucks..

where should i begin looking?i have no idea what it could be..

any help is extremely appreciated!

 

Year, trim, mileage and setup please. What aftermarket engine parts do you have (performance or replacement)? List everything down to the spark plugs.

 

Vehicle:Acura Integra
Motor:B18a1
Tranny:Cable 5 Speed
Miles on the body:23x,xxx
Miles on Build:20xx
year:91
Body:Jdm Da9 2dr LS

Motor is built with the following.
Everything listed below has less than 2000mi on it

Polished b18a1 head
B18b Oversized valves
B18b Springs,retainers,keepers
B18b Cams
Fuel management unit
Dc integra radiator
Race Piston Rings
Race Rod Bearings
Brand New Starter
Brand New Ignition Switch
New Dizzy
New Timing belt
Digital Voltage gauge
new headgasket
new exhaust gasket
--------------------------
4-2-1 Headers and Full catback exhaust
Cold Air Intake
ngk platinum spark plugs


Royal Purple Oil for the last 200mi,Premium Gas for the last 200mi,Octane booster every time i get gas.

there is everything in the motor.if you need to know more,just ask.

 

First check your cam and ignition timing, since the t-belt and dist are new.

What kind of fuel management unit are you using? Can you bypass it? Are you using it on a stock ECU?

OEM Distributor? Plug wires?

I'd recommend putting these items back to OEM if possible (one at a time with a test drive in between in case one of these things is the cause) and see if your problem persists.

 

vortech fmu on a stock ecu.

oem dizzy,brand new

never changed plug wires

i would agree going back to stock,but this problem has been occuring before i installed the fmu,so i dont think it is that..(one thing is for sure though,it seems like the hesitation falls on it's face even worse now with the fmu..)
and the coil and icm in my dizzy show good on multimeter(i have BRAND NEW in packaging coils and icms also)

I drive this car daily and have taken this motor apart many,many times..my timing is dead nuts on time.

 

Sweep test TPS with dvom voltage should be around .5 closed throttle around 4.5 volts full open. KOEO engine does not need to be running. T pin middle and bottom terminals behind connector. If the voltage doesn't increase smoothly its bad. A o scope will put it into a visable graph so if can be used its more accurate. This would be my first easy and cheap replaceable sensor.

 

I just recently have been experiencing the idle fluctuation,so ive had the tps disconnected to shut it up.but it does still read correctly,but ive had the problem before this as well..

thanks though,keep em' comin guys.

 

Why would you do that?

Order of A/f influences tach(RPM),MAP,TPS,ECT,IAT,O2. All these sensors needbto be operating correctly for the computer to have correct fuel trims with long term and short term

 

you think it could have an effect like this though?i would think if it was going to give me a problem, it would be sometime around startup..

 

ive had the same problem up until a couple days ago, replaced the tps and havent had any problems yet.

 

that's crazy..so your symptoms were exactly the same as mine?i mean,it's just plain terrible dude.I dont understand how it could be fine driving for almost an hour and THEN hit me with "your tps is F*d"


Ill try replacing the tps and take her for a long drive and let you guys know what's up.
thanks for the help

 

well my thing was it was a constant hesitation while driving in 5th gear, and once when taking off in 1st gear.

id try to find a known good one from a buddy before spending the money to buy a new one if you can, or do what decep said and do the sweep test and make sure its not that

 

This has been happening long before my tps has gone out though..

its like the motor just seizes up and feels like something is just plugging the motor up..
i mean, the motor just straight dies with the gas pedal pushed,but it's still running in a way.so it just slams forward and the motor stops making a sound,then it shoots to life with my foot holding the gas the whole time.it just does that over and over while im holding the gas..its really really rough,will throw you around pretty good lol..

almost feels like a ricer buddy making a bouncy shift lol..

 

are you throwing any codes??

 

when my tps is connected,no codes.
but i have my tps disconnected so i throw code 7,tps..

 

well is the car still hesitating when the tps is plugged in and not plugged in?

 

yes,after about anywhere from 20-45 minutes of driving

 

well id make sure the tps is good. do a sweep test. and if its good make sure its calibrated right too rule that out and go from there.

 

ok so an update!

got a new tps(just decided to buy one,was only 30 bucks.)calibrated it correctly.
no codes,ran perfectly fine.

took her on the highway for about 20 minutes,did the jerky hesitation when applying the gas..pretty much broke down..but ran fine in idle.
i shut it off,and let it chill for about 15 minutes.started it back up and drove home fine..wtf..

 

Sounds like a fuel problem, I would be checking the PGM-FI Main Relay.

If you can install a fuel pressure gauge in a manner that lets you see it while driving you will be able to see if fuel pressure drops off when the engine "hesitates".

Or if you have access to a known working PGM-FI Main Relay, install it ands see if problem persists.

With that said and even if the problem persists with new PGM-FI Main Relay it may still be a fuel problem and you will need to get the FPG installed to see if fuel pressure drops off.

Then there is the possibility it is ECU/ECM related.

Because the engine keeps running, [probably at idle RPM] it may be the ECU/ECM cutting pulse time to the injectors, [down to idle].

Anyway, those are the things I would check. 94

 

thanks,ill check my fuel pressure when it does it again and let you know.
I also just installed a new main relay today.The old one looked a little crappy.

 

can an 02 sensor do this?mine was removed by previous owner and the code goes off around the same time it happens,but sometimes it doesnt come on and it still happens so i dunno..


I checked the fuel pressure after a highway drive again,and it showed 42psi-/+.when i applied gas,it died down along with the motor..but i dont know if it's fuel related..maybe the fuel pump.when i first put the build together i didnt know there wasnt gas in it and heard some funky noises upon first startup,but that was long ago and it runs and drives fine except for when it does this...

 

Please help this keeps breaking me down every 5-10 minutes.do i need to replace the fuel pump or what do you think?i cant afford to be throwing parts into it,so let me know what you think guys!

 

ya mine started to **** up again too. but mine just dies now when i take off in 1st gear unless i rev it up to like 3krpms then it will slowlyyy take off

 

I would start by replacing the PGM-FI Main Relay with a new or known working one, they are a common problem on older Honda/Acura, and a common symptom is it will work fine for a bit untill it warms up and then it fails, turning ign. off for a bit allowing it to cool down will get it working again, for awhile.

You can sometimes confirm this as the problem by "tapping", [good solid tap] the PGM-FI Main Relay when engine is bogging or you could try the "repair"...

http://techauto.tripod.com/mainrelay.htm
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelay.html

Don't assume the solder connections are good if you do not see a "bad" one, just resolder all of them. 94