Integra LS.. keeps draining my battery
My car keeps draining my battery. The car drives fine when I start it and take off the negative from the battery so I know its not my alternator. But I just replaced the battery and it is still doing the same thing. It would start but not fully drive it would lagg until I take off the negative then it'll run good again. What is my problem?
My car keeps draining my battery. The car drives fine when I start it and take off the negative from the battery so I know its not my alternator. But I just replaced the battery and it is still doing the same thing. It would start but not fully drive it would lagg until I take off the negative then it'll run good again. What is my problem?
Voltage at battery when engine at idle should be at least 13.5-15 volts if not it's your alternator as long as belt is not slipping on pulley.
Also removing either cable from battery is a bad idea on computer controlled cars you risk the chance of blowing the ecu from voltage spikes since the voltage regulator in alternator is "removed" from the circuit. Old school muscle cars don't have computers to destroy so doin procedures for them on computer controlled cars is bad besides a few.
Also removing either cable from battery is a bad idea on computer controlled cars you risk the chance of blowing the ecu from voltage spikes since the voltage regulator in alternator is "removed" from the circuit. Old school muscle cars don't have computers to destroy so doin procedures for them on computer controlled cars is bad besides a few.
ouch.sounds like you need to grab a test light and check for drain
here's how:
http://www.ehow.com/how_6073508_chec...drain-car.html
here's how:
http://www.ehow.com/how_6073508_chec...drain-car.html
I requested a short story for a title.
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: hard parked at the sandbar
check for parasitic load anywhere in the vehicle, trunk light? maybe after market sterio.
I currently have a bad alternator in my integra, the voltmeter in my turbo timer was only showing about 10.5v at 3000 rpm and the battery light was not on.
I currently have a bad alternator in my integra, the voltmeter in my turbo timer was only showing about 10.5v at 3000 rpm and the battery light was not on.
apparently you double posted, so i'll paste my response from your other thread in here:
bad ground. high mileage cars can have severely corroded grounds, broken grounds, or i've even seen them completely removed by previous owners for some reason. check and replace all your grounds. get some good quality coated battery/amp power cable and re-loom all your grounds, hell add some while you're at it
bad ground. high mileage cars can have severely corroded grounds, broken grounds, or i've even seen them completely removed by previous owners for some reason. check and replace all your grounds. get some good quality coated battery/amp power cable and re-loom all your grounds, hell add some while you're at it
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So I did the parasitic test on my car and it checked out fine. Also did an alternator test and it too checked out fine.. my car was able to start on its own but it will eventually have that same problem after I drive it for a block or 2.. can anyone help?
Have them check the battery, new battery terminals, clean all engine and trans grounds. Make sure the main battery ground has good contact with the chassis
Battery should still be good. It shows 12.8 on my volt meter when the car is off. It starts fine, but lags when i give it some gas. Almost like it is going to die. Can it be ecu?

is your battery light on when the car is running?if it is,it is your alternator or a bad connection between it and the battery.
if not,you have a parasitic draw,or some bad wiring(be it a ground or a short,or simply installing a cd player or alarm incorrectly),or a bad battery.
really these are the only things you could be dealing with..
So my car can drive but it tends to lag like its gonna die when it is in gear. But revs fine when it is on neutral. I first thought it was an electrical problem but now im thinking gas.. can anyone help?
i just went trough this, i replaced alt,battery,fuses and on and on, ive built these things for years, never seen nothing like it, ended up being a ground was loose, i never dreamed that was it, so try it before anything else
oh and check the voltage on your alt fuse, it will tell you if its a wire loose, and battery fuse. if there low its a wire, if not then you can rule it out
Okay, so where is the alt fuse? Because i cant find it on my fuse map that is located under my steering column..
Main alt, fuse is in the engine bay fuse box.
What year is your LS?
When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?
Pull the spark plug leads and make sure there is not water/moisture down the spark plug tubes and/or on the spark plugs or parts of the leads that are in the tubes.
I would want want to check the fuel pressure, when engine bogs.
I would also want to check both valve and ign. timing to confirm they are correct. 94
What year is your LS?
When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?
Pull the spark plug leads and make sure there is not water/moisture down the spark plug tubes and/or on the spark plugs or parts of the leads that are in the tubes.
I would want want to check the fuel pressure, when engine bogs.
I would also want to check both valve and ign. timing to confirm they are correct. 94
Last edited by fcm; Oct 24, 2012 at 10:44 AM. Reason: typo
Main alt, fuse is in the engine bay fuse box.
What year is your LS?
When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?
Pull the spark plug leads and make sure there is not water/moisture down the spark plug tubes and/or on the spark plugs or parts of the leads that are in the tubes.
I would want want to check the fuel pressure, when engine bogs.
I would also want to check both valve and ign. timing to confirm they are correct. 94
What year is your LS?
When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?
Pull the spark plug leads and make sure there is not water/moisture down the spark plug tubes and/or on the spark plugs or parts of the leads that are in the tubes.
I would want want to check the fuel pressure, when engine bogs.
I would also want to check both valve and ign. timing to confirm they are correct. 94
I have the same problem somewhat. I took my car (DA9) to Advance and had them test the alt and battery. They told me the alt had a bad diode. I ht'd it and determined it was the alt's diode due to fluctuating headlight brightness between idle and traveling RPM's. I purchased a used ebay alternator(tested good) and am still trying to figure you which way to remove the sucker. I Checked all my grounds and when using extensive electronics while the car is running I can idle at a light and enjoy the car die in the middle of the road. Until I trickle charge the battery I can't start it. Basically if you have an aftermarket cd player or amplifier check those first. Your alternator could be dead or not strong enough to charge your battery at all. maybe resetting your ECU everytime it eats sh**. A cheap fuel filter wouldn't hurt if you don't remember ever changing it.
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VTEC_Du_Ma_Mai
Acura Integra
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Mar 20, 2008 04:48 PM



