Alright first off I just want to say that I am new here and have been reading all the posts I can find and they are very informative. Currently I am deployed and when I get back I going to rebuild my b18c1. I guess the questions that I have are what exactly can the block and head handle stock safely. I am looking to make 300WHP, that is my goal. I have decided on Darton MID Wet Sleeves, Just because you can never be too safe. I want to build this so that it will last forever or the next 10 years. I don't want to rebuild it once a year.
Ok so besides the sleeves do I need to upgrade the CAMS, Crank, valves, valve stems, retainers and springs, etc to obtain my goal.
I am going to pull the engine out in about 2 weeks and hone the block and hot tank it. I haven't decided on piston's yet so any advice is warranted. I am going to boost the engine so looking for good boosting pistons. While the engine is out I am going to replace oil and water pumps, all gaskets, ARP bolts. I plan on getting new axles for the power. I am probably forgetting other stuff but please let me know what you think about this? I am not looking for anything crazy like 1000HP but 300 is my goal.
Also what turbo would you recommend and then for piping and intercooler and such what else would you recommend?

Originally when planning this I was going to go with Skunk 2 cams, and skunk 2 valves, retainers and springs. And Darton Sleeves. I am highly decided on the sleeves just because I want a block that will last forever.

 

300whp is easy on bone stock engines, provided it's healthy and the tune is good.

 

Before I left, about 8 months ago, it was burning oil pretty bad, really bad so i stopped driving it because i was getting ready to leave. I have to take it apart to check the condition but should be fine. One thing i have noticed is that the coolant slowly disappears. No coolant in the oil or leaking it just disappears. :/ but will not know until i get back. But if all is well the stock block and head can handle 300 boosted easily and safely? What turbo do you recommend?

 

I recommend find your coolant issues first, as these issues will only worsen with increased cylinder pressures. There's no point in going Forced Induction (regardless of type) if you're loosing coolant at a continual rate: This may mean complete teardown of the engine anyway, as you now have oil and coolant issues.

While you're at it. Put in fresh internal components (why do this twice in the happenstance that you want to increase power) by utilizing forged internals? If it means you wait a bit for funds. You need to do that..

Be safe overseas, come back alive, and do this project right.. I promise you, you won't regret it.

Best of luck to you.

 

thank you very much. and as for the tear down, i am completely tearing it down, gonna make sure the block is solid. and then upgrade whatever i need to make it reliable. i am just stock on what i actually need to get and what i want to get. if that makes sense. because when i get something it has to be the best, and i will save and save until i get it.

 

Since its (smoking) id do a rebuild on it.


Micropolish crank/Balance crank
Ac/king rod and main bearings
Arp robs bolts
Hone the block
Npr piston rings
New pistons depending on condition
Arp head studs
water pump/oil pump
timing belt
t/belt tensioner
Oem head gasket
Rc 450 injectors
walbro 255



Youll be safe at 300 whp with a rebuild and a little safe parts that i listed and a tune.

 

First off, thank you for serving!

Im the exact same way.. I always want the best, and usually it is overkill. I dont have much direct experiance, but I know 300whp has been done countless times on 100% bone stock GSRs. But as long as your going to have the engine apart, you really should do some forged internals for the added protection like TheShodan said. This will also will leave you some room to grow if you get bored with 300whp. Stock honda cranks have been proven to 500whp, and maybe more. As far as cams, and valvetrain..stock gsr will be fine. I wouldnt rev much past 8200 with stock valvsprings just to be safe.

Basically, 300whp is an easily attainable goal. Longevity is ultimately in the hands of the tuner.. Make sure you go to a reputable shop, and you should be fine.

Like i said, im not speaking from experiance. But ive spent countless hours reading and researching, and I wouldnt just throw out random information, haha. And if i have learned anything from being on HT, its listen to TheShodan..He knows what he is talking about and he IS speaking from experiance.

 

thanks, that is exactly what i was looking for. appreciate the help!

 

^ sorry for the poor grammar

 

I wouldn't bother with such small injectors. Even for 300whp due to the rise in fuel pressure. A set of 660cc plus is in order and a better fuel pump. Then the right turbo to match.

 

thank you, it sucks always being deployed. but i am finally going to be home for a year straight.

i appreciate the input, and we seem to think alike. I plan on beefing up what i can to help ensure longevity. i don't wanna build a shitty put together overnighter. it'll be a proper build and i don't want to miss any angles.

i appreciate the input and u have helped me decided on what i was negotiating with myself with.

 

ok so for pistons what do you recommend?

i am trying to build a list before i build so i can set a budget for myself. then before i build it, tear it down and make sure the block is solid and not cracked or anything.

 

I JUST had my GSR rebuilt in my old car like 3 months ago. I replaced everything besides rotating assembly, valvetrain, and head studs. I had like $640 in parts on the receipt. Thats was a new OEM oil pump, water pump, timing belt, Head gasket, Total Seal rings, ACL bearings, valve seals etc. Literally was a brand new engine. So you should be looking to spend roughly $1500 in parts alone if you factor in rods, pistons, fuel pump, head studs and injectors. I had the machine shop order the parts (stupid move). Im sure you could get better deals if you shop around. You can get rod/piston combo (manley or eagle rods w/ wiseco pistons) for around $800. That includes ARP rod bolts and rings.

 

I like this thread, working with an gsr myself

hope they'll remain helping you therefore helping me gl

 

Where do you recommend buying parts? preferably online, I am deployed and want to have stuff waiting for me when i get back.

thanks again, this helps me out a lot.

 

What have you done so far?

 

You really don't need to sleeve it unless something is wrong with your current motor in that department. 300whp is easy on stock sleeves. That said I have a ERL Superdeck with darton sleeves... and was running 353whp for a long time.

Personally I would leave factory cams, put in some not too stiff springs, and run a good set of valves. I am a fan of Wiseco pistons and most any of the rods will work for you. Check out real street performance for some good combos.

As far as a turbo is concerned if you want to keep it around 300whp look at a gt2860rs. It will give you those numbers and be hell on spool. Full boost down low.

If you are going to sleeve it take it out to 84mm. Love my 2L b18c1. Awesome engine.

I would also go with Injector Dynamics 750 or 1000cc injectors and a hondata s300. (I use AEM EMS)

I can tell you now though with the way you want to build the engine that you're not going to stay at 300whp. Might want to look at a GTX2860r if you have the budget. It will do 400whp without increasing lag, the gt2860rs will maybe hit 350 if everything else is right. If you have budget for the GT or GTX series turbos thats the way to go. If not there are some much more affordable options. I run a GTX3071r and am making 360whp at 7psi on my 2.0l gsr.

Who is going to build your engine?

 

Im not sure if ill get in trouble for posting links for other sites but ill try. Majestic honda/hondaautomotiveparts.com for OEM parts, realstreetperformance.com for rod/piston combo (many other parts too, cool site), passwordjdm.com, jhpusa.com.. theres a bunch of sites out there. Im sure you could search on these forums and find a bunch more.

 

ok, this helps out a lot. I was undecided on boring it out to 84 but i am considering it now. Myself and a good buddy of mine are going to build it. haven't found anyone reputable in OKC to do block work so probably drive to dallas or tulsa. Will do more research to decide who i want to tune it. i have a hondata s200 right now but gonna sell that and go with the 300.

 

Thank you, i have been looking at all of them just didn't know if anyone has any good or bad reviews about any of them.

 

You are on the correct path. You can do it simple with just springs and retainers or bump it up a little with forged pistons and rods. You don't need to sleeve the block, yet I can understand your logic to do so. Stick with GSR cams or the popular CTR/ITR combo. I've had good results with Fuel Injector Clinic injectors. They are a little cheaper then ID's and perform very well. As for parts, I have a local shop that I love doing business with.

SpeedFactory

SpeedFactoryRacing.net

 

Can you please give a little more info on this CTR/ITR cam combo.

 

I have found that Boring without increase in stroke (like an LS crank) did nothing in terms of additional torque-band and power. In fact, we only gained 20ft/lbs going from 84mm from 81mm using the same GS-R crankshaft.

Sounds like you have a plan, and the turbocharger choices are endless...

 

What crankshaft would you recommend?

 

I have a dream. lol I am going to completely redo this car, not in the sense of destroying it, but going to sound proof is as much as possible, navigation, courtesy and safety lights...I have been doing a lot of reading on forums and have a picture in my head of what i want. i just can't wait to get back and get started.