i need help asap with an issue im having with my 94 accord ex. i had a vacuum leak from the intake manifold gasket, i went and changed that with a felpro gasket from the parts store and once i put everything bad together the car starts right away perfect but then it warms up and if i press the gas to like 3k the needle drops all the way off. from that point on it takes couples cranks to start up idling really really low to the point where i have to keep my foot on the gas so it doesnt turn off. this is the 3rd day already, already went back and too the whole thing off and started from scratch making sure everything was clean and in place and the car still does the very same thing.

here is the tricky part, my brother got the same car so i went and took the whole throttle body with tp/map sensors, fast idle valve and iac valve, and put a new gasket on throttle body and NOTHING CHANGED!, then i changed the distributor (COMPLETE) and the main relay was changed not long ago.

also been trying different spark plugs and cables, spraying brake cleaner on almost everything that could have a vacuum leak and nothing, keep resetting the ECU but still nothing.


I REALLY DONT MIND W.E YOU WANT TO SAY IN HERE, I WILL TAKE IT! IM JUST LOOKING FOR IDEAS ON WHAT IT COULD BE, SO PLEASE!
THANKS.



*The only idea i got as of right now is to get a new OEM Gasket from honda for the manifold, but i still dont know how that would do anything when the one it had before was leaking and the didnt have this problem.


1994 Accord EX
Automatic Transmission



*UPDATE! As of right now the car will only stay on and running if i disconnect the TPS Sensor.
If i do that i can rev the car as much as i want and it will come down to the same spot around 1k
and it runs even tho i noticed the transmission wont shift as smooth as before.

 

the ECU may need to re-learn the idle.

 

Thats actually looks a lot like my case but i tried that method and it dis nothing. Idk maybe the accors dont have the same tricks, i tried resetting the ecu couple of time already.
thanks tho. i will keep trying and looking.

 

This is my video....

http://youtu.be/oEPSGaLn94o[/QUOTE]

 

is that your check engine light on?

you should read the code because often times the computer will tell you what's wrong

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/90-93-accord-obd1-cel-codes-2630683/

 

sounds like you have a faulty tps.replace or try to readjust to .5v

 

No thats not my check engine light, thats whats killing me that it's not giving me any code.


..and yes i tried a different tps but will look for another one to try.

 

You might have damaged a tps wire in the process. check wiring.

 

Check and see if you swapped the MAP and TPS sensor connectors. People do this all the time.

 

or possibly the iacv and tps got swapped..

 

im going more towards a messed up wire. every connector is in its place, and the iac connector can only be confused with the manifold air temp sensor. today i will go more into the tps sensor/wires.

 

So still having this problem.

latest....got my oem gasket from honda, took everything off and made sure everything was clean, then started the car, left it running to make sure it relearns idle, restart the car and all good UNTIL i rev it up to around 3k, dies.

also spended some time with the tps sensor which seems to be working properly according to the troubleshooting tests.

still looking for more, meanwhile theres not check engine light. sucks.

 

The tps and map sensor both use the same reference volts. You could be running a test on the tps and still get the same results but with the map sensor connector on there instead of the tps connector your car is going to run like sht.

 

yes sir i know exactly what you saying, but i always make little marks on plugs before i mess with them just so i dont confuse em later...

...another thing, i just tried something that made the car start with no problem and idles without dying. i took the fuel pressure regulator and disconnected the short rubber hose for the vacuum which goes on top side of it, then got two rubber plugs and covered the two inlets. basically leaving it with no vacuum line, only noticed a stronger smell of gas out the back as if it was running too rich for the moment.

OH, and this was done with the tps connected.

 

damn it sounds very very close tot he problem im having right now. and some other dude who seems to be too. but mine wont start and i have to have the gas pedal floored to get it to start. then under 3k, it'll die, if i hold it over, its fine. no noise nothing. checked almost everything too

 

Have you calibrated the TPS itself ? It needs to be set properly. You can't just put one on and expect it to work.

 

I thought you would only have to calibrate it if it was out of spec voltage. Mine was reading .4 when closed and around 5.0 when fully open. correct me if im wrong.

 

Well mine starts yea but only when cold, after it warms up and rev up to 3k it dies and wont start back up unless i press the gas, which keeps it alive as long as my foot is on it.

btw yours sound worst than mine cuz mine starts quick when i press the gas plus i aint go that smoke out the tb.

 

Just did, on point but car still doing the same thing. also changed the fuel regulator which did absolutely nothing,.

today i will look towards weak fuel pump since the car runs good once i remove vacuum line from the fuel regulator.

 

It's supposed to be .45 closed and 4.5 open. It's probably not going to be a big difference. You should also check to make sure that as you open the throttle, that the voltage gently rises and there are no dead spots on the sensor.

 

Yes sir i did, and the open/closed are both correct.

I also removed my IAC and got independent 12v to it to make sure it was opening and closing, and it was.

Btw everytime i try something different im going thru the whole "idle relearn" process, just in case.


Meanwhile the car still driving with the tps disconnected, the only way it stays running.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...2239760&page=5

ended up being a couple bad TPSs. from that thread blox aftermarket TPSs are garbage.

 

I assume the car is running like **** ?

What basically happens when you pull the tps is you're putting the car into limp mode so it's running in open loop therefore ignoring most sensors. That's probably why it's running fine. There has to be a sensor somewhere that's either messed up or plugged in wrong.

I would test the coil for resistance just for the heck of it. Should be 13k to 17k in that area.

 

Yup, not running too bad but i feel the difference as the transmission shifts and gas mileage.

yesterday i tried a different resistor box and one of those solenoids that sucks or feeds air to the manifold right next to the injectors. Since i've heard of the resistor box getting heated and since the car starts acting up only after warm up, but still nothing.

Today i will spend more time with the tps, something is telling me that is wiring, either no enough contact on the pins or something.


Btw after the car goes into limp mode, does it go back to normal after i re-connect sensors and reset ecu? i assume

 

Yes, it will go back to normal as soon as you clear the code ...until the code comes back on.