Ok, my girlfriend just got her '91 back from the shop after getting a new head. The valves were clattering like hell so I did a valve adjustment. Get in there, those morons didn't leave ANY clearance. I even took it down to .03mm to see if it would go. It wouldn't. I also noticed that the marks line up for the intake side, but to do the exhaust side I had to seperate the marks by a tooth. Could this be due to the valves not being fully seated yet? Any other ideas on this?

Also, when the clutch is pressed in with the engine running I can hear and feel a knocking. What is this? I'm sure it can't be good.

Thanks, Dan

 

ttt

 

I know the B20's and B21's exceptionally well for the 3G ludes. By mentioning that you had to seperate the two sides by a tooth, your obviously refering to the timing belt aren't you? IF they didn't line the belt up correctly, and for heavens sake they jumped the cam a tooth on either side, that "taping" sound could very well have been the valves slapping the pistons. Valves are fully seated upon install, so that shouldn't be a concern. Make Sure your clearnances are set correctly on the valve adjustment.... .003" and .006" (I&E).

As for the clutch concern, sounds to me like a new clutch is going to be needed. I wish you lived closer to Dallas; I love clutch jobs on 3G's. Best time yet is 3.75 tenths! I wanna hit 3.50 on my next job. Anyhow, that clunking sounds to me like a failing Throwout Bearing, and I'm sure your PP and clutch are worn pretty good to. Hope this helps, and feel free to post if you need anymore help.

Dustin

 

 

Thanks for the reply! Yes, the timing belt. Thing is, how do I know which cam is off? I can't just pick one! That would be too easy. As for the valves, I put them on the tight side of the tolerances given under the hood.

I figured that the valves weren't fully seated yet because of how the car runs. When you first start it, the cold idle jumps to 2000-2100rpm and then settles to 1800. It seem a bit high to me. Also the engine doesn't run smooth durring that time either.

As for the throw out, what can happen if its left like that for too long? It seems pretty bad.

Thanks, Dan

 

I'm surviving on almsot 0 sleep in the last 24 hours, so I'll post my site here and let ya check it out sometime. As for your new list of Q's, I'll have to hit those tomorrow am. BTW, Good Q's Dan. Talk with you later my friend.

Dustin
http://dustin_palmer.tripod.com/home.html

 

Get some sleep! Let me know when you can.

 

Can someone help me with this?

Also, does anyone have any hibrid theories to throw around. Info on this engine is so scarse, but its still a b series. will a b16 head bolt on? And from what I hear, a b17 crank will give it a displacment of 1.9 liter. Can anyone varify this? Destroking this engine probably wouldn't be a bad idea, espesially if a vtec head goes on.

 

there is quite a bit of stuff for this motor
n/a
-h23 rods
-b18a/b pistons
-b18a/b vavle springs and retainers
-cranks from Eagle
-pistons from race engineering
-vtec head will work lots of work is involved(you need to move a complete row of head bolts)
-h22/h23 could be dropped in using Place Racing mounts
FI
ludespeed turbo
zex & venom has a kit specific for the car

 

none of the other b series parts are interchangable with the b20a5 or the b21a1. they are totally different motors. the head need lots of modification to be put on there and i don't think the crank from the 1.7 will actually fit in the 2.1 block.

as far as the hybrid goes, if you are going to spend the money and time on a swap, just go with the h22a. there is at least a mount kit out there for that motor to fit into the third gen.