I know that 5w/30 is recommended by Honda. I have at least 1 and possibly 2 small oil leaks and read on other forums that using a heavier weight synthetic oil may stop or slow leaks. Related info: http://www.ehow.com/info_7796489_dif...ngine-oil.html near bottom of page:

10W30 vs. 10W40

Both these oils have the same weight when cold, and it's a good weight, sufficiently low to get the oil moving through the engine quickly. A weight of 30 when hot is very common, and ideal for many engines -- but if you're having problems with engine wear or leaks, the 10W40 oil will provide more protection for a running engine, and escape through leaks more slowly.

The leak(s) are near the back of the motor and middle to driver-side.
I've replaced V-tech solenoid seal, distributor o-ring and oil pain which did cure
additional minor leaks. But as stated above still minor leak(s) near the back of engine.
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I live in Florida so cold weather isn't much of an issue, but heat is.

Looking for possible easy solution first. At this point I have no interest for the time and expense of tracking down a minor leak. Car is parked under tree at my home and hasn't needed oil topped up in 3 months.

 

I really don't get why people think this is ok. Sure it might help with leaks, but did you think of the other damage you could be causing?

Fix the leaks and continue to use the correct weight oil...

 

personally I wouldn't use that heavy an oil...makes other things in the motor work harder.

I know you said you didnt want to fix it, however your either going to fix it, or you let it go and it'll cost more to fix later on down the road.

 

But, Dammit I want a mechanic-in-a-can..lol

 

Becuase youre in Flordia, I would say the 10w30 is going to be okay. BUT, you can't just go pouring thick oil into a enigne just becuase it leaks.

It being the same weight when it's cold isn't everything.


I don't mean to a dick, but stop being lazy and climb under the damn thing and figure where it's leaking from.

 

no. the y7/y8 motors are already prone to spun bearings. no need to speed up the process.

 

how long of a period would this take? months, years? I use 10 40 cuz i got bad rings.

 

The above plus it won't do squat for the leaks; if it leaks on 10W-30 it will leak on 10W-40.

 

Oh, and it won't hurt the bearings at all.

 

so on a low comp engine with worn piston rings what viscosity would you recommend? Im driving a $1000 car im just trying to make it last and not spend a small fortune in oil. Im not worried about the long term really.

 

Really the hardest leak to fix is the rear main seal.
The weight of oil you use depends on ambient temperature mostly.

 

Buy whatever conventional 10W-30 or 10W-40 is on sale at Walmart and keep on driving. If the engine is burning or leaking, even if it only makes it 500 miles per quart, no big deal; just keep the oil level up and it should go a long long way. Remember, oil is cheap.

 

Im pretty sure its burning oil, no leaks. Its finally getting colder here in nc so Im thinking about going back to 10 30. What do u think?

And oh yea ive learned the hard way. And usually 30 vs 40 isnt much of a price diff if any at all. Also i always try to buy something decent. I like castrol gtx high mileage. I keep up on the oil almost daily and change it every 3to4k witha honda filter. Like i asked above poster u thnk i should go down to 10 30 since its getting colder? or stay at 10 40. or is the 40 not even making a difference?

 

Given the age and condition of the engine I rather doubt it makes any difference at all.

 

hmm i guess il stick with 10 40 or whatevers cheapest, say i had a gsr that burned a little bit of oil due to bad rings then would you say use 10 40 or stick w oem 5 30

 

I'd probably lean toward the 10W-40, but after nursing old engines for many-many years now (I started turning a wrench in the early 1970s), I've yet to see a single engine where the small difference between say 10W-30 and 10W-40 translated into better power/longer life/reduced oil consumption.

 

right, i know its not a huge difference, but it is a difference. Ill stick with the 10 40 unless i get a nice low kmh jdm engine where i can use some light oil. I just wanted to know if i was damaging anything by using a thicker oil, but if not then i will keep on.

 

stick to the 30 weight the only thing i would ever change is 0w 5w or 10w thats it....

 

Try again.

 

i know u said u ddnt wanna spend time on fixing the leak but have u checked ur oil pump? its very common for those to start leaking in a y8. it starts out very small and gets bigger over time.

 

Why? I got it right the first time.

 

No. You didn't. There is absolutely NO hard data that can back up your claim. Just people repeating what they've heard. I defy you to find me hard proof. With proper maintenance any engine can last a pretty long time. 3 years on a boosted Y8 right now.

 

Sorry, there is zero scientific and engineering evidence to even hint that an old(ish) engine designed for 5W-30 with over say 50,000 miles cannot safely run 10W-40. In fact, the reverse is true. So, back at'cha, I defy you to find me hard proof to back up your claim.

 

The manufacturer recommends 5w30 for a reason. They designed the engine with that weight of oil in mind. Fix your problem properly and use the correct weight and viscosity for your oil.

 

And while the engine is new, the factory recommendation makes sense. As the engine ages and tolerances change, a slightly higher viscosity makes sense.