my integra stalls out while driving. it starts up fine when it stalls. havent had anything tested yet since ive been at work but i am going to have the alternator checked, although there are no signs of a failing alternator. the battery seems to be leaking but i dont see how that could cause it to stall out if the alternator tests good.

i know it cant be my ignitor since both times i had the issue with the ICM my car wqouldnt turn on until the ICM cooled down.

any ideas?

 

Will it restart right away after stalling?

What is the MM&Y of your car?
OBD1 Integra does not mean a lot, it could be a B18 in a Civic for all we know. 94

 

its an 95 integra ls auto 100% stock.

yes, it starts up right away and thats why im kinda tripping out. ive helped people with bad coils, main relays, and had issues myself twice with the icm on another car and all those problems needed for the car to cool down before it started up again.

theres no sign of anything "failing," it just dies then starts up like normal.

check engine light is not on, car has enough gas and the fuel filter was replaced within the year. i also changed the plugs, timing belt and battery. other stuff too but nothing that would matter for this situation.

 

Have you checked for stored codes?

Even if CEL is not on, you should check for trouble codes.

Also, just because the engine will restart right away, does not mean that a component, like the ICM, coil or PGM-FI Main Relay are not the problem, if the engine stalls out like you turned off the ign. switch, it could still be a problem with one of the above, or even just a connection problem.

Have you checked the connections to the coil and ICM inside the distributor?

When the engine stalls do the cluster lights and gauges stay/turn on, [like when you turn on the ign.]?

Can you hear the fuel pump priming/running when the engine stalls?

Does anything else stop working when engine stalls, like wipers, radio, power windows or anything else on the switched ign. circuit? 94

 

everything works when the engine stalls. its as if i had it the key switched to the ON position.

i didnt check for the noise of the fuel pump because it stalls when im rolling so theres outside noise drowning it out.

i also didnt open up the dizzy yet, just havent had time to

i filled up the tank this morning and as i was driving the car turned off but hiccupped and the rpm went back up to normal. since then its been driving normal. im going to give it a few days with a full tank to see what happens.

ill open up the dizzy when i can.

another note, the idle was really low before the "hiccup" but now the idle is back to normal. im starting to think my fuel pump is failing. hopefully it doesnt die completely. the car already has 188xxx miles so i dont find it odd that its the problem

the reason i cant give many updates is because im taking full time upper division courses and work full time so my free time is very limited. my gf primarily drives the car and she needs it for work.

thank you for your patience

 

The fuel pump could be the problem.94

 

Ok so fuel pressure was good. Main relay was good. Decided to change plugs, wires and full distributor. Timing adjusted and now cyl 4 isn't firing. Car ran fine before so assuming that the valves, rings and injectors are good, does that mean it can only be the plug, wire or cap? Everything from the rotor to the other side of the distributor would cause a multiple misfire right?

My old wires and cap were good, I just figured I'd replace em since I'm doing everything else

 

i knew my old wires, cap and rotor were working so i swapped them out. with the new dizzy, cap, wires, plugs and the old rotor, the car is running much better. the old rotor was in horrible condition so im assuming i bought a defective rotor.

i know thats possible but is it likely? i find it hard to believe that a company can mess up a piece of metal.

is it possible that i also bought a bad distributor causing a misfire in only 1 cylinder?

how can a rotor cause no spark to only 1 cylinder?