Bought a 1998 Honda Accord LX 4 cyclinder with 140k+ miles. Obviously, it's a high mileage car. Just wondering if any recommendations from anyone what kind of oil to use for this car?

Thanks!

 

140K isnt high miliage, My accord has 219K and running strong.

I use Castrol GTX 100% I love it...

 

Thanks for the quick response!

 

Read----> http://asia.vtec.net/topics/oil1.html

 

Noooo!!! its a Honda you don't have high mileage until you hit 250-300k miles but anyway the very best oil is royal purple. but the step down is fully synthetic high mileage Valvoline oil just for extra detergents and protective additives for extra security. if you put either one of them oils and change it every 3 moths or 3k your car will love you forever and it will run for 500k+ miles if you keep up on regular maintenance.

 

my 250k mile crx was given whatever kind of oil every 5k-10k and it was fine, i eventually took the engine out to build for more power, and on the inside it was still good for a long way to go. there is no need for super high dollar oil if you change it on time.

 

at this point synthetic oil would prob be the worst thing for his motor. It would make his seals start to leak. Dont beleave everything you read as most is just a sales gimmick

 

i use Castrol GTX

 

actually the only time your oil seals will start to leak is if you use full syn. oil then go back to conv. oil thats when your oil seals may start leaking.

 

I have seen it many times people switch to synthetic and rear main and cam seals start to leak right away.. Also Valve seals hate it when you switch from dyno oil to synthetic, switching it ok after your first 3K miles but after 140K miles I just wouldnt do it.

 

Thanks all for the suggestions and opinions. I'd probably just go with the conventional oil. Since Castrol GTX were mentioned twice, I guess I'll go with that. Plus, my current 2005 Accord had been using Castrol GTX anyway.

Thanks again!

Edit: Not sure how true; but saw this article http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...oducts/4213451

 

I've read that article and I believe it to be true. I've switched from synthetic back to dino in a pinch and then back to synthetic on a 98 TL with 200000 miles. No leaks or problems. I'll have to dig up an oil comparison article that I found. It's an interesting read.



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This isn't the one I was thinking of, but its similar. The one I was thinking of has nearly every type of oil

http://www.thedirtforum.com/oils.htm


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Changing to syn at high miles being bad for your engine in an old wives tale.

Currency using Mobil One high mileage.

 

X2 on this ...also I too run the Mobil hi mileage 10w-40 on my 92 clocking 135K.


If you are truly scared to go to synthetic and want to sorta ease into it....I recommend running 1 or 2 changes of the Valvoline stuff high mileage(full synth I think) as well.....Valvoline seems to have a lot of additives...these additives will help puff up your seals.....I did it to my 92 and it cured a seepy weepy oil pan gasket "leak".....I then after started running Mobil(full synth) on it....no problems at all.

Dont skip out on a quality filter like K&N or Bosch plus...Mobil....you can literrally feel the difference of the oil's consistency when u use a cheapo brand....the cheapo stuff just does not leave at refined.

 

Synthetic is a waste, Mobil one is junk and Wix is a good enuff filter.. Why pay 12+ a filter when you can pay 6 for the same quality filter.

Mobil one is the worst oil and dosent protrect metal on metal on cold starts and heavy loads. My shop has done alot of metal on metal test with lots of diffrent brands and mobil one was the worst. One of the better ones was Brad Penn and Royal purple

 

a high quality dinosaur oil like gtx is all you need, and a good filter like wix only locally available at orielly, all fram are garbage

mobil 1 totally thins out under massive power or loads, loses pressure and boom goes the motor


as for switching between regular and synthetic i've switched back and forth too many times to count and havent gotten any leaks

right now i run castrol edge titanium (gold bottle) and it stays nice and slick with no gunk over 5-8K. that oil is probably excessive but i like it

 

Depends on the health of your engine. I did it on 3 different cars and they were fine. What normally happens is because synth cleans so much better if your dyno oil was masking a leak you will have problems.

 

No not true at all. Test after test usually shows royal purple as not being as good as M1.

OP if your really interested I would get off of this website and goto bobstheoilguy (just my opinion I love this site but they have better oil info)

 

Thanks, I'll check out the website.

 

Warning (sort of): The BobIsTheOilGuy.com (BITOG for short) web site has some very opinionated characters, many of whom are argumentative to the absurd. Probably best to wear a very strong B.S. filter on your eyes when you go there. This isn't to say it's a bad site, in fact, it contains a HUGE quantity of very good scientific and empirical data; just that you need to work a little harder to separate the wheat from the chaff.

 

I concur with the Castrol GTX oil...I use that in my current Accord (1997 EX). I also used GTX in a 1996 Civic and another 1997 Accord (285K and 201K, respectivley) and never had problems. Main thing is to use a good filter - the Purolator One filters are worth looking into; I would not use Fram.

 

What test? HAve you seen a test with your own eyes? I have actually done the test my self and have seen Mobil fail with in 3 to 5 sec under a heavy load and actually lock up the machine. You might as well use water as It might actually protect it better then Mobil one. No granted there old stuff was awsome but they changed the make up of there oil and its trash now.

 

Lab testing used oil shows time and time again that M1 is as good or better. This is from my google searching blackstone test results. I highly doubt what your saying about M1 since it is so widely used and would think if it were so bad more people would speak up. I perfure penzoil plat. since exon is a shity brand (figured it could only be better).

 

What machine and how does it relate to the conditions in an automobile engine?