This is a DIY so only try this if you are confident with schematics, wiring and are mechanically/electronically inclined. Do at your own risk this is how I did it and what worked for me. Please read entire thing before starting the project.

Material list:
RSX 3 wire coils with clips
T1 Cam trigger kit
Coil attachment plate
AEM EMS
Wire
soder
heat shrink
ecu pins
male and female 6 pin plug (optional)
Cam cap plug

Step 1: First thing I did was setup my T1 cam trigger kit and make sure it was all working properly. His instructions are pretty straight forward and can be found here: http://www.t1racedevelopment.com/ind...catid=19&id=14

I did this for trouble shooting purposes. Once it was setup and running I knew it would be fine afterwards and if there was issues with the other setup I wasn't going back and forth from the cam trigger to the COP setup.

Step 2: I made a coil attachment plate, there are lots of places that sell them if you would rather just buy it, I made mine because I had the material laying around and I just wanted a project to work on. If you need an explanation on how to make it, please just save yourself the headache and buy one.


Step 3: Attach the coils to the plate and install on the engine.


Step 4: Make your harness. I used a rsx diagram that I had found to make my harness. Here is a pic of it.
***All wiring should be done with the EMS unplugged.***



Basically I took the PCW wire and sodered and heat shrinked them(Yellow/green, Blue/red, white/blue, and brown on the rsx harness) into a 6 pin plug each to their individual spot. Then I took all 4 grounds (black wire on rsx harness) and sodered and heat shrinked them all to one pin on the same plug. Then I did the same thing to the 4 ignition wires (black/white on the rsx harness) and put them on their own pin on the 6 pin connector.
**note: I used a 6 pin connector that I had from another car, if you want to simplify things a bit you could use your distrubitor plug and repin the plugs instead of running wires. I chose to use the 6 pin plug incase I ever wanted to go back to the distrubitor.
Make sure all connections are sodered and heat shrinked.***

Pic of the 6 pin plug I used:


Now after wiring the coils to the plug I ran 6 wires. 5 from the other side of the 6 pin plug into the car(make sure the wiring of the 2 -6 pin plugs correspond to each other) and 1 wire by itself(will explain this one later). 4 from the coil to the ecu in my case with my 30-1050 box had to be wired in this order as per AEM forums:
Wire coil 1 (pin B13) to cylinder 1
Wire coil 2 (pin C12) to cylinder 2
Wire coil 3 (pin C13) to cylinder 3
Wire coil 4 (pin C14) to cylinder 4

***Again this is for the 1050 box, you will have to find your proper pin location for your specific AEM box which is as easy as going on their site under your ecu and looking up the cop setup for that ecu (Only use the pin location in their write up)***

The 5th wire I used for my ignition source and ran a wire directly to the ignition from the 6 pin connector and sodered it direct because I didn't want to chance having it on the fuse block with a plug connector that could fall out under hard load. Here is a picture of where I sodered it. Main thing you have to remember when picking an ignition source is that it is a full time switched ignition source and not a switched accessory source. The full time switched ignition source will read voltage while cranking where the accessory source will not. Make sure to protect the wiring where it could be chaffed.
***I will most likely be putting a fuse inline as close to the ignition as I can get it***



For the ground I ran a wire from 6 pin plug down to the ground location beside the factory ground on the t-stat housing, make sure you clean it up really good with some sand paper. Make sure the connector you used is crimped,sodered and heat shrinked.



Step 5: It's time to open up the AEM box(again this is for the 30-1050 box, please call AEM and double check yours will be the same), if you did the t1 cam trigger first you would have already done this once. And will be familiar with opening up the box and working on it. If you don't feel comfortable taking the AEM apart and working on it please just send it to AEM and have them do it.
Now if you haven't done the cam trigger you will need to move the JPT1 and JPT2 jumpers to the 1-2 position (you can see in the pic there is a 1 beside the jumpers, that is location 1) DO NOT MOVE JPT 2 OR 3.
**Again if you have already setup the cam trigger this should be done.**

Should look like this:


Now onto the JPC1-5 jumpers, they all need to be moved to the 1-2 position to control your coils. Should look like this:


Now re-assemble the aem box.

***Final note, make sure you call AEM tech line to verify this is right with your specific EMS***

Step 6: Now for that 6th wire you ran into the car and isn't connected to anything, tap it into the blue tach wire in the engine bay, and find lowside driver on your ecu and pin the wire to there. In my case with the 1050 box it went to location A19. Now plug your ecu in and connect. Once connected save your current calibration.
Then In AEMPro, go to Setup > Advanced setup > tach/speedo control > option, set tacho = 3 teeth, and tacho output = 2.
*Thanks to a reference from a post I found that SuperTwinZ had made!*
This should get your tach up and working.

Step 7: Go to Option > Coils and make Coil 1, 2, 3 and 4 active.

Step 8: Go to Ignition > Advanced Ignition >Coil Dwell Setup > Coil Dwell Wizard, and select Honda C.O.P. coils (01-up)

Step 9: If you haven't already setup the cam trigger set up the software configurations shown in the T1 cam trigger guidelines, just make sure when you start with the Options Cam/Crank Setup that you set it up as a 4 channel configuration.
***If you have already setup the cam trigger in your calibration and ran it with the stock distrubitor you will have to go back and change it for the 4 channel configuration***

Step 10: Go to Configure > ECU Setup > Set Ignition.......SYNC YOUR TIMING WITH YOUR INJECTORS OFF!!!
This confused me the first time I did it because everytime I read/seen/or even did sync my timing it was done with the car running.
Now obviously it won't run with the injectors off. So I'll explain this. First goto Options > Injectors and uncheck active box for injector drivers you are using usually 1-4.
Now that the injectors are off you will need a second person and a timing light. You will need to crank the engine over with another person on the timing light and sync the timing as close as you can get it in AEM Pro, that is where you go to Configure > ECU Setup > Set Ignition.

Step 11: Now that you are sync'd fairly close go back to Options> Injectors and re check the active boxes for the injectors you are using again typically 1-4.

Step 12: Before starting the car I just left the stock distrubitor in place but unplugged it, once you know it works you can then pull it out and put the plug to delete it.
Start the car and sync your timing again to make sure it is all good. Check everything over, clean up your tune. Once you know everything is wired right and working properly, tape and cover all wiring to protect it from chaffing.

Enjoy, hope this helps someone out, I've done a tonne of research to get this working. If anyone sees an issue with anything please feel free to let me know and I'll make adjustments as needed to the write up.

 

Ok guys this works well but there is one little issue that I can't quite figure out. The tach signal to my EMS works fine, but is only reading half on my stock cluster. Thought it might have just been the cluster itself, tried changing that and the new cluster still does the exact same thing.
I'm assuming I need some kind of tach signal converter to make this work right. Does anyone know what would wok best for this or what the proper converter would be?