okay i have my 94 dc heres the story! drove to the store to get some garlic salt! everything was good until i went to start it up 2 days later to go to work!

got a solid check engine light

symptoms key on engine off! fuel relay will not prime pump!
i tested the relay in another car ....works fine!

2.tested ecu in another car
Ecu fired up other car

3.check all fuses under hood and dash
replaced them ALL

4. jumped the pump straight to battery
Pump primed just fine!

5.checked ground on thermostat housing
LOOSE tightened back up ...same issue did not fix anything

6. so after almost pushing this car off of a cliff i calmed down an decided that i would disconnect the ecu and test all of the connectors on the wiring harness on the ecu side

demon board lights up in my buddies car but will not light up on mine

so i tested the ENTIRE A side of the ecu with the key on..engine off
pin A25 (ylw+blk)...no power as a matter of fact no power from any of those pins on the A side (1-25) is that side supposed to get power?

please help im banging my head against the wall here

 

Have you checked the fuses for the PGM-FI Main Relay, there are 3 of them.

Unplug the PGM-FI Main Relay and test for power on the yellow/white lead, should be hot at all times, [fuse 31-15A].

Test for power on the black/yellow lead with the ign. switch in both the run and start positions, [fuse 24-15A].

Test for power on the blue/white when ign. switch is in the start position, [fuse 18-7.5A].

The ECU/ECM should have two (2) yellow/black leads, [IGP1 and IGP2] power for them comes from the PGM-FI Main Relay, [fuel injector relay] and fuse 31, [through relay] if the PGM-FI Main Relay is not turning on there will be no power to IGP1&2, if IGP1&2 do not get power the fuel pump relay, [in the PGM-FI Main Relay] will not turn on, [no priming].

If fuses are good, [power to the yellow/white, black/yellow and blue/white] unplug the relay and use a jumper to to jump from the yellow/white to the yellow/black then test for power at IGP1&2, [yellow/blacks] at the ECU/ECM, [both must have power].

Let me know what you find. 94

 

i jumped numbers 3 and 5 on the main relay solid check engine light turns off and flashed 3 times (eCtune) ecu has power ..... jumped the other two and the fuel pump primes

 

What color are the leads on pins 3 and 5?

What "other two", [colors]?

What lead(s) at ECU have power, [colors]?94

 

im not sure what it is really i used a wire

i jumped it like that
check engine light turns off


ecu has power ....
but changing out the relay doesn't fix the problem the relay in my car is working ....we swapped it into another integra ...it started right up!

if i jump the other two the fuel pump will prime

 

if i jump blk+ylw ylw+blk wires 3 and 5 the ecu works if i jump the other two to prime the pump the pump primes i cannot tell the wire # since im at work at the moment

 

Plug the relay back in and use a jumper to supply a ground to the green/blue lead, it is the ECU/ECM control lead, [ground] for the fuel pump relay.

Also hold the plugged in relay as you turn on the ign, switch to run, [not all the way to start], you should hear/feel at least one "click", [fuel injector relay turning on].

If you do not hear/feel that click, check the ground, [black] for the PGM-FI Main Relay. 94

 

The relay does click once

 

Turn on the ign. and use a jumper to supply a ground to the green/blue lead. 94

 

Grounded to green blue lead ...nothing happens

 

There should be a 2nd click from the PGM-FI Main Relay, the first click, [when ign. is turned on] is the fuel injector relay turning on, it supplies power to the injectors, ECU/ECM, some engine sensor/solenoids and the fuel pump relays coil, the ground for the fuel pump relay is supplied by the ECU/ECM, [green/blue] in your case the jumper you use to supply a direct ground to the green/blue.

Did you have the ign. on to get the first click before you grounded the green/blue? 94

 

Yeah I got nothing...I pulled the steering colum cover and the bottom panel by the pedals and found a relay on the LHS disconnected on the drivers side there are two ill post a pic when I get home I don't know if that relay is bad the harness connects to it

 

Almost sounds like the PGM-FI Main Relay is bad.

If you get a click out of the relay when you turn on the ign. you should get a second click from the relay when you ground the green/blue, but you said you tried the PGM-FI Main Relay in another car and it worked, correct?

Maybe the ground you are supplying to the green/blue is no good, try jumping from the black to the green/blue, relay plugged in and ign. on.

Did you confirm that you have the three (3) powers at the PGM-FI Main Relay plug?

Unplug the relay and test the yellow/white, should be hot at all times.
Test the black/yellow, with ign in both the run and start positions, should be hot in both.
Test test the blue/white, with ign. in the start position, should be hot in start only.
Also test the black ground lead for continuity to chassis ground. 94

 

i grounded the green/blue to chassis ...no result ill check all of the other wires in the morning too dark to do work but in the mean time can you tell me what this is? i pulled down the bottom panel on the drivers side close to the main relay and i found this disconnected ....not sure what it does but since i installed those innovate torque mounts weird things happen from all of those vibrations i guess

 

Starter relay, [starter cut relay].
Blue/black is from CIS, to relays coil [clutch interlock switch, [high up on clutch pedal].
Black/red goes to starter solenoid, [starter lead].
Black/whites are from ign. switch, one is the starter lead, the other is starter lead to relays coil.

If it was unplugged, engine would not crank, or it has been bypassed or I guess it may be the stock security starter cut relay, but it has black/reds and a blue/black according to my Haynes, so questiion is does engine crank if it is unplugged? 94

 

yellow/white, yeilds NO power at all
black/yellow are hot on both
blue/white with ign in start is hot on start
checking ground leads for continuity as we speak.....


edit! ground is good and fuse #31 is good (under hood)

i think its another problem.......

you wouldnt happen to have the parking light wiring diagram ....it seems to me that this makeshift (killswitch) that the previous owner installed is a piece of junk and not working. apparently the main relay will not switch on if the parking lights are off! once their on the relay gets power pump cycles on and ecu gets power!

i think maybe the wiring in this modification has finally failed!

im assuming somewhere under the dash he molested the parking light wires and the main relay harness somewhere so i guess i have to fix that now!

 

Is there power at fuse 31?

Park light circuit is pretty simple...

From fuse 40-50A, [engine bay fuse box] to CLS, [Combination Light Switch] white lead.

From CLS to fuse 19-10A, [under dash fuse box] red/green lead.

From under dash fuse box, [fuse 19] to park light circuit. [red/black lead].

Have you checked to see if engine cranks with the relay you found, unplugged? 94

 

Yes it won't crank until connected I found a blue wire and a black one twisted together along with a white/red and a green/blue twisted together ...it's a nightmare

 

No power to #21 10a under dash

 

Sorry should be fuse 31 for yellow/white lead. 94

 

Where is #31 I don't see it is that under hood?

 

Marked as ECU fuse...


Test both test tips on the fuse. 94

 

Is this left to right or right to left...if this is the case something is backwards but my ECM fuse is okay I checked that one earlier

 

If there is power at that fuse then the problem is between the fuse and the PGM-FI Main Relay 94

 

Does that harness run along the firewall behind the dash ?