Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) Includes 1997 - 1999 Acura CL

F23A5 to F20B

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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 03:57 PM
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xEagleEYes7x's Avatar
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Icon2 F23A5 to F20B

So I have a 01 Honda accord VP auto model i mainly want to know what i well need, a lot of other forms say i can use almost all of the stock parts like transmission, wiring(not ECU,i have 1 on hold already), harnesses etc..., but i want to hear from guys that have already done it.

where I'm getting the engine:
http://www.jdmtigerjapanese.com/f20b...nly-97-01.html
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Old Nov 25, 2012 | 08:48 PM
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Default Re: F23A5 to F20B

I just completed this swap on a 2000 Accord ex coupe m/t. The motor drops on easily and you can use your stock motor mounts and stock wiring harness. The manual trans, clutch, flywheel etc also bolted right up to the motor with no issues. I don't know about the automatic stuff though. There are a few things you'll need to do this swap though:

1- if you want power steering you will have to swap your f23 crank pully over to the f20b. The Euro Accord/Sir/Sir-T had electronic power steering therefore no extra groove on the. crank pully for a power steering belt. Also, you will need an H22 power steering pump mounting bracket. The f23 one will not fit. I got a bracket, pump, resevoir and hoses from the fs/ft thread on preludeonline.com for $50 and just put it all on the new motor and got a new belt. Once the motor is in, the power steering pressure line will seem too be to short. I gently pulled a little slack out and had just enough to bolt it to the pump.

2- You will need a complete H22 intake manifold with fuel rail & injectors and new gasket set. Now if you want to try to salvage cruise control you will want to use the f23 throttle body but you will bolt the rest of the manifold right up to the f20b. The upper plenum on the h22 manifold should have a 2 wire IAC valve on it but your f23 harness will have a 3 wire plug. I pulled a 2 wire pigtail of an IACV on a 91 accord and wired it in. (the yellow w/black strip and the black w/blue stripe matches up. The 3rd wire on the harness plug is black and HAS TO BE GROUNDED OR THE CAR WILL NOT START. Learned that the painfully hard way.). The middle section of the H22 manifold contains secondary runners (IABs). Keeping them depends on what ecu you're running. I got a chipped P28 that won't run IABs so I got a Phillips screwdriver and took them out. You can also buy a spacer on eBay that just has open ports and use it instead. If you use a p72 I believe you can keep the IABs in.

3- Distibuter. I used the F20 distributer. To do this you will have to do a little wiring. The f20 does not utilize a crank sensor. If you take plug off the f23 crank sensor and the plug out of the f23 distributer you will have 8 wires. These wires match up color-for-color to the 8 wires on the f20b harness plug for the distributer. Hopefully your f20 comes with a wiring harness. Mine was chopped but I was able to salvage the f20 distributer plug and fashioned my own 3 way plug-and-play distributer harness that plugged into the f23 harness plugs for the crank sensor & distributer and then into the f20b distributer.

4- My f20b came with an exhaust manifold but no downpipe. The exhaust ports of the f23 (o oo o) don't match the f20b (o o o o) so I couldn't use my accord header and downpipe. You can get an h22 header for a 97-01 Prelude base model. I used the F20b manifold (I read lots of good stuff about the factory f20b manifold) and ordered just an H22 downpipe for $70 from, again, the for sale thread on preludeonline.com. However, when I installed it I found that it was about 6" too long and had to have about that much cut out of my exhaust so the whole exhaust would still fit nice and snug and all the hangers could be utilized. My car sits pretty low and I could not afford the exhaust to hang any lower that it was. The downpipe for the H22 houses the o2 sensor that normally sits in the top of the f23 manifold so I had to pull some of the o2 plug wires out of the wiring harness loom and reroute the plug to behind the motor but it reached the sensor without having to cut and splice. Also, the exhaust gasket that connects the downpipe to the cat is easily found at any part store. However, the one that connects the manifold to the downpipe is impossible to find locally. I ended up making my own from a sheet of gasket material.

All the other sensors (coolant temp, oil sending unit, whatever) should transfer over off the F23. You will also be able to reuse you cv axles though I took this opportunity to replace the cv axles and install new axle seals. I ordered an h22 EGR block off plate from eBay and had my ecu chip programmed to delete EGR so I had the EGR plug from the harness not going to anything. The f20b also does not utilize the evap purge solenoid from the front of the f23 intake manifold or the camshaft position sensor from the drivers side of the wiring harness so I ended up with 3 unused plugs.
I think that's about everything. If I missed something or you got any questions let me know. I'll try to answer them if I can. This was my 1st swap and a lot of it I learned as I went.

Last edited by Kris_purser; Nov 26, 2012 at 11:34 AM.
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 04:15 AM
  #3  
Fitz Williams's Avatar
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Default Re: F23A5 to F20B

Originally Posted by Kris_purser
Once the motor is in, the power steering pressure line will seem to be to short. I gently pulled a little slack out and had just enough to bolt it to the pump.
Just a word. Always leave a little slack in any hydraulic line. Never fit one snugly. Get you a new line made.
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 11:38 AM
  #4  
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Default Re: F23A5 to F20B

In the plans.
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Old Nov 27, 2012 | 09:23 AM
  #5  
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Default Re: F23A5 to F20B

so you can use accord axles too???
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