New to the fourm, been in the chevy world for quite some time.
Bought my 97EK back in June. Dropped a Y7 with 8x,xxxkms, painted it fire red, slapped some Tein superstreet coils, and some 5-Star 205/45/17's on.
Now its time to boost the crap out of the motor.
As follows;
GT35R 70a/r Journal bearing w/ SS lines
2.5Charge pipes with HKS replica.
Off Brand Front Mount off a DSM setup good for 350+
Custom made ramhorn bottom mount mani.
Tial 38mm waste gate
550 injectors/ 255lph walbro
3"downpipe - 3" mandrel bent turbo back.
& HondataS100

Im aware the turbo is massive for stock D16, but its brand spanking new & its should start to spool around 2800 so i figured full boost by 51xx?Or could i hope for better. I figured it would leave me room to do Stg2 cams pistons rods, valves and springs down the road.

My goal is 280+ to the wheels. ive done pretty much all my research already, and seems well within my reaches.
Theres tons of built engines running this turbo, so im excited to see what itll do to a stock Y7.
& with low rpm launches i should be able to keep traction, and i have a great tunner who belives hell be able to damage to the well expected wheel-hop.
Should be fun.

 

Don't care what turbo you run you won't get that on a stock D-series, much less a Y7.

 

Sounds like he's done little to no research from where I'm sitting...

 

He'll say next that he KNOWS that he won't make that on a stock D-series and that 280hp is his eventual goal after he adds his "stage 2" cam and whatever headwork he stated he was going to do.

 

ill be GLAD to break in the 13s with the turbo/exhaust.
Only plan on running 8psi untill anywork is done.
Dont know quite what to expect. as its not a common setup.
** because race car can gain 180~hp off a turbo, right? -.-**

My previous build was a GM 3.1L p&p's .3o over. H/C pistons, 38lb/h injectors, MLS headgasket, LS6 valve springs. custom length pushrods, 1.6" rockers, & a street cam, in a 2600lbs convertable it ran a 14.2 with 198hp and 224tq.

-Ill let the build speak for itself, turbo and SS lines were first thing to come in.
And having it infront of me has given me all the more incentive to get it bolted on.
Cheers.
Cant upload pictures yet, so keep the chirps till they are up.

 

I needed to quote that for future reference. The answer is no, you can expect much, much worse. I’m curious where did you pull those spool points from?

 

Guy running the same turbo on an SR20
However it is a built engine and running much higher psi the i anticipate.

 

Fail build in progress.

 

not usable power on the street.

 

Do yourself a huge favor, and take the head off your motor. Look at the D16 sleeves. Now remove the rotating assembly, and look at the rods. Compare them to your Chevy/GM/Ford/fuckyeahmurrica' build.

Stock D series rods start to bend/snap at 200-220. Stock sleeves are thin, and will shatter without an almost perfect tune at the 300 mark.

You might know what you're doing with American Muscle, but that won't translate to the Honda world.

 

I disagree. There are a lot of 350-400whp vitara set ups on stock sleeves.

 

Vitara setups include a (horribly) low compression piston with an aftermarket rod. His reference is referring to a stock block as you propose. It does not like more than 200whp without severe damage.

BUt....Good luck..

 

You need to reconsider slapping this stuff on before you build your motor. Its gonna cost more if you don't.

 

1.) No such thing as a GT35R in journal bearing.
2.) What do Stainless Steel lines add again, around 200whp at least?
3.) You compare a 2.0 Nissan engine to a 1.6 SOHC Honda... wow, just wow. Some over night parts from Japan and it should be running 10's Paul.
4.) You can gain a LOT more than 180hp from a turbo...
5.) Low RPM launches on ANY Honda is the definition of stupidity.
6.) No matter WHAT turbo you out on an engine it is only going to hold so much power. The limit of most D-series reliably is 220whp and around 180wtq. Much past either of those numbers will create a funeral for your engine. Stock sleeves are good to around 400whp.
7.) Vitaras can be ran with custom length rods to achieve a ~8.5:1 compression ratio. This is still low enough to make the SOHC seem like someone forgot to install the camshaft.
8.) HKS replicas are known to leak/not hold boost.
9.) 2psi, 6psi, 9psi, 20psi, 8psi... whats the difference? Clearly you don't know much because 8psi with that turbo's flow rate should be above what that engine can handle stock...

Also, I know GM's as good as anybody. That 3.1 "build" is average as best. Don't come in here thinking everybody ONLY builds Hondas. That would be the biggest mistake in your lifespan on this forum. You have been warned, so hit the books kid, you are going to need it.

 

^^^ Good posting, lay down the law.

 

reading that just sounds like alot of wasted money for 4 banger power.
stock sleeves are fine ur weak point is the rods/pistons.
upgrade those and you should be good to about 300
break 12's no problem

 

GM 3.1L is a 60degree V6.
It was a sleeper, as it was commonly overlooked. I built the car when i was 16 on a student budget paying my own insurance ( in T.O!) Did the swap in -18 weather in my 1 car garage with a propane heater. with all the wrong tools. I've learned for myself TYVM.
& too this is day is the only car I have driven that would keep them spinning untill 5th gear, on dry pavement Common you say ?

Well life has kept me busy. end of the season for landscaping.
But i've made progress;
After my oil drain bolt f*cked off on the highway @ 120kph,
I filled her up and heard a disastrous knock.
decided I would chance it to save the tow bill.
& 30 kms later my connecting rod was in the oil pan and had blown a whole through the bottom of the block. ~ saved the tow. all i cared about.
So i picked up a y8, and a spare tranny (literally stole them. all sensors and gaskets.)
installed the exedy stg.2 clutch, and slapped in the motor with a long geard s20 tranny.
Re-used my Y7 harness. ( There needs to be a complete how-to made. had to source way to many threads !)
After working out a couple CELS ( VTEC, bad o2, Cleaned IACV, ect)
I'm literally in the final stage. waiting on more funds/ sales of parts for my p28 and tune.
~ currently running a PBA (1.6 EL motor /ecu) & as all should know,
It won't allow me to build boost. So the car sits for the time being.
Couple changes were made to the setup;
450cc instead of the 550's
DSM BOV, that hasent been crushed in vs the HKS rep.
& since I unexpectedly had to replace the motor.
Running stock exhaust vs the 3" mandrel

 

BUILT . Not Bought.
Thanks

 

Well that diddnt take long.
When the rod was in the pan, i got right up-close and personal with it. POS!
Rods, pistons , studs and new gaskets from the head up. and i should be happy with where she'll sits.

 

How is this blurb nonsense relevant to the statements N3va3vaSatisfi3d just posted?

 

Re-read the whole post,
i answered each one of his pointless statements.
Anyways, i've been busy in the real world. testing, pushing and blowing things up till i found out what is & isn't going to work for myself.
Hit a 208hp/ 158tq run on neptune 8psi peak. before i spun a bearing on that block.*STOCK*
Now on motor 4, i've decided to support the block to be *reliable*.
MODS;
Ported oem stock oil pump
Vitara/eagles
acl race bearings
Headwork-
3-angle valve job, ports matched to gaskets.
Zex springs/ valves / retainers.
Y8 cam
ARP Head studs
Mini Ram Ex.
Y8 IM
.63 trim Ebay GT35R rep.
dsm 450cc's
AEM FPR
stage 2 Exedy cluch kit,
Long geared S20,
~next/ final stage is 3" mandrel, Larger injectors, & a bisi. cam
Block will be installed within the week, and number will be posted with next tune. Pics will be up when it'll allow me to upload.

 

You may want to learn how to parse your quotes and replies. Nobody wants to have to fish through a poorly quoted post because you think a tilde is the way to separate a quote from a reply.

You may also want to listen to what he has to say. Most veteran members on this board have a lot of useful knowledge to impart.

 

I've re-read your post, unfortunately again this statement of "built not bought" has nothing to do with this or your previous post. Are you saying you built the engines that blew up and therefore understand what's at risk? Your being cryptic and tend to deflect the point. Just spit it out.. This makes no sense at all, sadly.

 

hahaha

 

Shodan, Just for you !
`.) No such thing as a GT35R in journal bearing. ~ Dude its an ebay turbo. calm your hormones &ive already had it apart, it's journal.
`.) What do Stainless Steel lines add again, around 200whp at least?
~ One of those statements you shoulda kept in your head ?i believe so.
`.) You compare a 2.0 Nissan engine to a 1.6 SOHC Honda... wow, just wow. ~ Comparing the exhaust flow which affects spool rate, YEAH buddy,i am, LOL
`.) You can gain a LOT more than 180hp from a turbo...
~I was refereing to a stock block was i not ? & sure you can while watching your motor go pop.
`.) "Low-er" RPM launches on ANY Honda is the definition of stupidity.
~ 2-Step will not be cracking as high as a common build. in attempt for a smooth tec transition, to keep the tires from busting loose.
1.) No matter WHAT turbo you out on an engine it is only going to hold so much power. The limit of most D-series reliably is 220whp and around 180wtq. Much past either of those numbers will create a funeral for your engine. Stock sleeves are good to around 400whp.
2.) Vitaras can be ran with custom length rods to achieve a ~8.5:1 compression ratio. This is still low enough to make the SOHC seem like someone forgot to install the camshaft.
3.) HKS replicas are known to leak/not hold boost.
~ Thank you for your informative response.
?.) 2psi, 6psi, 9psi, 20psi, 8psi... whats the difference? Clearly you don't know much because 8psi with that turbo's flow rate should be above what that engine can handle stock...Do you have statistics to back this up?
~A good friend has nothing done but ARP's and a thickened headgasket. y8 block, Same turbo, and pulled a 12.8 down a quarter. Fast/Cheap/Reliable. guess which 2 he went for . ?

~ On another note. Got the head back from the machine shop today,
Installed an OE gasket w/Copper spray on both sides aswell valves / springs & cam.
Been waiting on an friend to drop off an engine crane, as this is taking place in my 1 car garage again. May just pull the old one and possibly get the new one in from underneath.
Engine1; Bought with car, pulled for a fresh y7. 2;Oil drain plug fucked off on the freeway, by the time i killed it the damage was done. 3; pushed to its limits, spining a bearing and snapping a rod. Lesson leanered. no more 200$ motors.