hey im looking to buy the full h22 swap from hmotorsonline.com but have a few questions before i spend liek 3grand
heres the links:
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc...age&item=30018
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc...age&item=30017

basically i am getting a turbo kit for the h22 after i get the motor and wanted to know which would be better for a turbo set up?
it says the h22a is 200hp, 161 tq and 10.6 compression ratio and the jdm h22 is 220 hp and 163 tq i think and is 11.0 compression ratio


i already have a competition stage 2 clutch and flywheel, aem adjustable cam gears, aem pulleys for the h22, and am getting brian crower h22 turbo cams. i am also gettin a skunk2 IM and TB and fuel rail from a buddy of mine.
thinking about getting pistons/rods but thats still up in the air as i am only trying to boost 7/8lbs
thanks in advance for you help.

 

How about just turbo'ing your F series you currently have.....

 

it has like 188,000 miles on it lol

plus i want an h22.

why do u recommend turboin my f22 over gettin a h22 and turboing it?

 

You can always do a compression/leakdown test on the f22 to see if its even gonna be able to handle being boosted. I would personally just swap in the usdm h22. Will probably be happier you did in the long run. 11.0 compression is a little high for a boosted motor, but any competant tuner can make that work.

 

So you want to install a motor with unknown mileage that in order to get a warranty for the swap you have to replace injectors, spark plugs, seals, gaskets, fluids, distributor, clutch, flywheel, etc and then hope that transmission/motor is good internally.

*edit* I should note this IS the route I went, and while I don't regret doing it for the learning experience I definitely can say it is not the most cost effective.

Versus doing a mild tune up on your existing motor that is already low compression and relatively boost friendly. Had I to do it over again I would probably have boosted my F versus doing the H swap. It was probably closer to the tune of $6k after it was all swapped in with all the parts needing to be replaced. Provided the motor is healthy, you will make far more power per dollar on the F. You can practically hit 200whp with a cam, gear and tuning. Check out Bisimoto's F series work.

Also, go down to the Forced Induction section and read in the Boosted F thread.

 

The 220hp/16wtq you mentioned is an H22A Euro R. Both you listed are JDM. The H22A with 200hp would be best since now adays ppl be boosting engines with 10:1 CR. The Euro R has quite high of CR to be boosting and maybe won't last you too long.

Just boost your F22 cause it has 8.8:1 CR and iron sleeve. Make sure you have good compression psi numbers before you turbo it. Many people with turbo'd F22s makes good amount of whp/wtq. 300whp+ so far I've seen.

 

Imade 305/307 on a stock as **** F22B1 with 140K on it and beat the **** out of it. Fiunally broke a ringland after like 15-20K miles more.

Fully Built H now, BUT...


With all that siad This is what you do:

Get a 50 MM H22A or H22a1 or 97 H22A4 carnk (all the same with 50 MM mains), H rods, Wiseco Evo stroker pistons, bore and hone the F and make 500 on it without having to sleeve. Unless youre willing to spend the 10000 to sleve a H block, its a better option. Youll be in the entire build like 1200 WITH machine work. GO!


Roughly translated... for the price ofg sleeving a H block and boring it, youhave a built motor.



Read: Wiseco part number for pistons in first post


https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/turbo-f22-build-h22-rods-4g63-pistons-low-compression-2546957/

 

did u get your motor/trans from hmu?

my f is actually having idleing issues and burns a lot of oil and just has many issues. the motor in my car now is f22b and it was put in after the original motor was driven about 240,000 miles.
just feel it would better to spend 2750 for a h22 with lsd tranny and all parts needed shipped to my mechanis lol and i have a few upgrades listed in original post for the h22 already. seems i would spend more time and money on the f22 over time..but i could be wrong. im gonna run all this my mechanic and do a **** ton more research on the f22. i assumed the h22 was wayyy better...

thanks, saw u had the h22, what kinda whp numbers are u looking at?
your not turboed right? just bolt ones and some engine work?

what else would be needed besides what u listed? 1200$?? thats cheap...lol

 

also heres a link to my build thread or w.e
https://honda-tech.com/forums/appearance-build-threads-122/bigbpatel-94-accord-wagon-build-3088831/


thanks for all the help!

 

i have had a bunch of h series in several cars.
if i had to start all over again i would have stuck with the f22, and boosted it. i would get some forged rods and pistons, replace bearings and then boost it. that will be a LOT cheaper than 2750 PLUS cost of install.
the h22 is NOT as boost friendly, not because the compression, but because the stock pistons have weak ring lands, and they have the FRM cylinder bores which many machine shops are not capable of following the honing instructions.

 

Making 750 with my H for 3 years. Made 650 3 years before that until it spit a rod out. Welded the hole up, bored it out and am on the same block. BUT you have to sleeve them to make any reliable power. You CAN make a bunch on a stock block, but I wouldnt push a stock H over 350 ish with a fairly conservative timing map. Also, stay away from LOG manis on them. The big motor doesnt like the reversion.

 

so decided im gonna rebuild my f22b and turbo. doing research on what forged pitson/rods to get and what else is needed.

 

Hello,

In my opinion buying a High comp motor and then going turbo route some how i find it a waste.

With the USDM h22 you are easier to go turbo, but from what i understand the FRM in both motors dont have turbo friendly pistons on the market. You would have to re sleve the block as mentioned.

I would suggest you keep the F22 block, go H22 head on the F22 block, with proper internals and a good tune, you can party the turbo as much as you want. The iron sleves on the F are much more boost friendly.

I am trying to build my own G23 (f23 block with H22 head).... this is when I own and drive a UKDM Type R motor in very good health making good power. Why do I want to build a separate motor for boost? Cause I find it rather stupid to spend good money on buying a high comp motor and then opening it up to turbo re sleve etc.

You could also go F22 block and H22 head with stock internals but boost would be limited to 5- 7 psi, IMO nothing more than or the stock ring lands wont hold. Though someone with good experiance should correct me.

My 2 cents.

Regards

 

The FRM sleeves arent the issue. Again, its the shitty ringlands on the OEM cast pistons. Period.

"Iron sleeves" are not any more boost friendly (Note in the end of your post you DO adress the LANDS and not the saleeves as being the issue so youre up on most )

PSI is COMPLETELY IRRELEVANT, and COMPLETELY subjective. To throw around a "PSI" level thats safe is retarded, and why has been covered 100000 times. POWER is what matters.

Youre opinion is just that, but its not correct, but once again, youre throwing PSI numbers around which dont tell anything worthwhile POWER WISE that does matter.


DO you understand why?

 

You use the F22/H23 (95mm stroke) not the 90.7mm H22 one for the h22 rod/dsm piston combo. F crank + H rods (longer than F) + dsm piston (shorter than F) = pretty close to stock piston to deck height.



x2 on boost PSI numbers though. Combustion pressure is what breaks ringlands.

 

Before building figure a budget, and goals. Then speak to an Engine Building Shop, like Laskey Racing. (I use them as they did great work with My Cylinder Head through Portflow)

Mike was a wealth of Info of things on my H22. I decided to dump my F22, it was burning oil and and needed to be bored out, with new rings/pistons etc...

So I got a full swap JDM H22A w/LSD Trans +P13 ECU for $1500, and it doesn't burn or leak a drop. I'm planning to sleeve for boost however.

Hope you figure it out.

 

Hello, I'm new to the forum. I currently have a 4th gen prelude witha jdm h22a swap. Everybody says not to boost it. I've heard different reasons not to. The latest thing I heard was that they won't take most aftermarket low compression pistons. Anybody heard of this?

 

dont really have a budget like to stay around 5 grand

basically reason for f22 rebuild is i read its good for boost, and its 1250 for the rebuild and 800ish for forged pistons rods etc. and 250 for the rebuild kit my mechanic wants me to get. guessing about 250-500 for the head to be resurfaced or w.e
and then figured i could turbo it down the road

im guessin about another 1000 for the tuning, ecu and whatever program thing ill get for tuning..

i have a mechanic thats doing the rebuild, good friend of mine

i just want something simple. not trying to piece together things bc i dont want to get the wrong part or have any issues with things not working out.

 

from a lot of threads ive read, people are usually totally against turboing a h22 unless u want to spend a lot of money. so thats why i thought id stick with my f22b i already have...

i thnk u can make a decent amount of power and still be reliable if u do basic bolt ons liek h/i/e pulleys, im, tb etc, cams, and good tune.

that was gonna be my other option but i want to turbo, so idk

 

413 on a stock H motor with only headstuds for over a year here

 

exactly why im having issues deciding what to do lol its like 3500$ total for a h22 with lsd installed bone stock. or do i spend that 3500 on the f22? that will include rebuild and forged pistons rods etc easily.

i just needa find some peoples build threads for f22s, which there a lot of but thats a **** ton of reading lol plus a lot of the people who rebuild motors are wanting 500+ hp while im looking for 350 tops

 

Do the DSM setup in the F block. Its a no brainer for the money and your goals

 

whats the dsm setup?

 

Since you have a 94 with unequal exhaust port spacing it won't work.

The DSM setup is for 90-93 accords. Basically you can use stock dsm turbo parts to build a cheap and effective setup.

 

Not talkin bout the manny 'yzzle ;O). The stroker pistons, crank and h rod deal