So a good friend that is in a tight spot money wise right now has a 92 Honda Accord DX. It randomly seems to not want to start. It cranks over, and just keeps turning over, but will not start. Now the odd thing is it doesn't do this all the time. It seems to do it maybe 25-30% of the time. If it will not start and you just let it sit for 30 minutes to an hour it will usually fire right up. Once it is running it doesn't cut off, even on long trips.

It had a problem several months ago where it was not starting, and then once it did start, it would cut off after a few minutes of driving. It ended up being the fuel pump and a new fuel pump was put in. However, it was one from Autozone, so I'm skeptical of the quality. Had I been putting it in, it isn't what I would have used. The alternator also went bad around the same time and was also replaced. However, since this car is running fine once started it doesn't seem like it is the fuel pump. Spark plugs and wires and also new, so it's not bad plugs.

Any tips on anythings to check? Any common problems with these cars that could cause this? I've never had an Accord this old, but even more so, I've never had a problem that is anything like this. It just seems really weird that sometimes it works perfectly and other times doesn't.

 

Check and see if it throws up any codes? AutoZone has DURALAST parts they are Lifetime warranty, they will replace it just take it up there.. While your there have them Run the OBD and See what it says, Could be Anything from a Wire to The CrankSensor Going Bad Clean The EGR and so on.. gotta start somewhere and Take it from there

 

92 is OBDI so Autozone can't scan it, and my scanner is only OBDII as well. That said, I know OBDI doesn't normally store codes it normally only will show up while the light is on, and the check engine light isn't coming on. It has in the past for the alternator, but it's not coming on for this issue.

Any ideas on where to start?

 

lol kinda of a lot of work to take the fuel pump back to Autozone on a whim. If it seems to do this more when the car is very cold first thing I would suspect is the ECT sensor located under the distributor. It has two prongs on it, the other one with only one prong is the temperature sender. If you test that when the car is cold(just disconnect the connector away from it) it should be around 2500 ohms and when the car is completely warmed up(fans have cycled atleast once) it should be around 180 ohms to 400 ohms.

 

Thanks. I will check that out first.

 

To check codes, pull the kick panel off on the passenger side and look for a blue plug with 2 wires... Bend a paperclip into a U shape and "jump" the plug then turn the key to the on position. It will flash 2 different ways, long flash and short flash. The long flash = 10... Short flash = 1. Watch the flashes and convert it to a number and post it and we'll see what we got.