I decieded a make a new thread with a better tittle/info. Like the tittle says, I have a 95 hatch and the speedometer, odometer, tripometer and cel don't work. I got a new harness and I was going over when I found the 3 wire plug for the vss was cut and poorly put back together (twisted wired and duct tape -__-) the yellow/blue and yellow/white wires where mixed up and I didn't realize until after I started the car, hopefully this didn't damage the circuit. But I replaced the vss, main relay, and cluster with known working units and tested the circuit and got all the right voltages, continuity, and signal from the ecu. I'm stumped, if anyone has anything else I should check or has any ideas please help me out!

 

Bump for ideas, im going to do some more research and see if I can come up with anything.

 

Bump again, I couldn't find anything usefull after a couple hours of research.

 

Bump for help

 

Does the CEL bulb socket get voltage? Is there continuity between the CEL bulb socket and the ECU connector? Is the CEL wire properly pinned to the ECU?

 

I haven't tested the bulb socket, I never knew you could. It has continuity between the ecu pin and the cluster pin. I'll test the socket when I get off work and post the results.

 

Is the CEL bulb good?

Twist the CEL bulb unit out of its socket hole in the cluster printed circuit board. On either side of the socket hole, you will see separated copper semi-circles - one for power, one for ground to the ECU. With the cluster connectors plugged in and the key in ON(II), check whether one of the copper semi-circles has battery voltage to body ground.

 

The bulb is good. I had battery voltage on one of the copper circles, I tested the other side for ground and I had no continuity. Just for kicks I tested my old cluster and I did not have battery voltage but I did have continuity to ground. Idk if they're both bad or what.

 

Note that if no codes are thrown, the CEL bulb copper semi-circle ground will get ground from the ECU for only 2 seconds after the key is turned from off to ON(II). Of course if a code is set, the ECU will provide constant ground to the ECU bulb.

Did you test for continuity to body ground here^? For this^ cluster, try this -- unplug it and remove from car. Then test for continuity between the CEL bulb copper semi-circle ground and terminal A6 in cluster connector A. Is there continuity?

 

That would make sence, and yeah I tested it to body ground. But I tested for continuity to a6 and it had it. Is it possible my ecu is bad? I opened it up and it didn't look/smell burnt.

 

Here is a nice link for the speedometer....

http://techauto.awardspace.com/vss.html

 

I followe the trouble shooting guide and everything passed, my driveshaft spun when I rotated my tire and I had the 0v to 5 volt pulse. The only thing I can think of would be the ecu, but is there a way to test that before I pick up a new one?

 

Pm me if you figure it out as I'm having the same problem.

 

Bump for ideas, i have a feeling it's the ecu but I want to make sure first.

 

bump

 

Possible related symptom: I Changed my main relay and cluster and jumped my car, since I killed the battery with testing it. After I turned the car off I switched the cluster back and tried to start it again and it wouldn't start, no lights, no nothing, it's as if the battery was completely disconnected.

 

Final bump, if I don't get anymore usefull hints I'm going to pick up a new ecu and see if that fixes it. I litterally tested and replaced everything else so I have a feeling thats it

 

So, I finally got my hands on a known working ecu, swapped them out and no results, so I'm back to square one. Does anyone have an idea of what I should check up on? I'm going to double check my circuits and see if there's a open or short somewhere but I doubt it. This is really frustrating and it's the last thing I need to fix before I get it inspected so I need to get this done!

 

Maybe you should try finding a parts car and snag the engine and in-car harness and fuse box's Might take quite a while to find where the problem is coming from considering what you have done so far.

 

You swapped ECUs before you completed the CEL circuit tests. You know that at least one if not both clusters are bad, right?

 

The new cluster I got was a known working one, I saw it work before I swapped it in. Both clusters might be bad, but I couldn't find that test online so I couldn't complete the cel circuit test (I stopped at whatever you showed me), all I know is that the green orange wire that goes from the cluster to the ecu has continuity. I found a detailed wiring diagram for the vss, I just can't seem to figure out how to test for the yel/blu wire on the vss, it says something about fuse 12 (15A) but that fuse is good.

 

Bump for info on cel circuit light test

 

Bump for cel circuit test

 

Final bump before I take it to my local auto electric shop. I can't find the cel circuit test for the life of me. I replaced everything in the circuit and tested everything for continuity, tested the fuses and grounds. I'll probably tear it apart tomorrow to see if I overlooked anything but I don't know what else to do, you guys are my last hope!

 

I need to know, I can't find this information anywhere.