Looking for ways to improve my ITR
Hi,
I have a stock ITR, went to track with it 2 times, and found that the body is rolling too much in corners. Looking for ways to eliminate this body roll. Should I buy a harder suspension? or get another anti-roll bar?
Thanks
I have a stock ITR, went to track with it 2 times, and found that the body is rolling too much in corners. Looking for ways to eliminate this body roll. Should I buy a harder suspension? or get another anti-roll bar?
Thanks
pics of your ITR?
Having the caR stock is a good base to learn and if you want to upgrade the suspension, then you can always go with koni/ GC setup. The stock swaybars are fine.
Having the caR stock is a good base to learn and if you want to upgrade the suspension, then you can always go with koni/ GC setup. The stock swaybars are fine.
check all your bushings and replace them if they are cracked or dry rot. It does look like a bit much body roll, but I dont know what kind of driver you are so its hard to say. Also how are you sure your shocks arent blown?
Im also in the same boat. And you can tell if the shocks are blown especially when you drive the car every day. Im about to get some koni and ground controls. for mine.
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I now notice a decent amount of body roll on my r with the stock setup so I swapped out for koni yellows on stock springs it helped out a little bit. But I think I'm going to get ground controls before the next track event. Not too sure about spring rates yet.
Other than body roll, does the car handle as you'd like?
What tires were you on in the pics?
Any future plans for the car?
If you plan to compete, you'll need to make sure you aren't modding in ways that would be prohibited by your sanctioning body.
What tires were you on in the pics?
Any future plans for the car?
If you plan to compete, you'll need to make sure you aren't modding in ways that would be prohibited by your sanctioning body.
is this car your daily driver? These look like HPDE's. As others have noted, what are your future plans fro the car?
I would thoroughly look over all the bushings on the car first before replacing the suspension. The age of these cars plus mileage often attribute to work/cracked bushings. This includes front LCA's, lower compliance, rear trailing arm, rear LCA's, front and rear swaybar endlinks, UCA's, toe compensator arms. If worn, replacing these units could drastically help the car's handling.
I'm curious on the answers to the questions above before I make any suspension advice.
I would thoroughly look over all the bushings on the car first before replacing the suspension. The age of these cars plus mileage often attribute to work/cracked bushings. This includes front LCA's, lower compliance, rear trailing arm, rear LCA's, front and rear swaybar endlinks, UCA's, toe compensator arms. If worn, replacing these units could drastically help the car's handling.
I'm curious on the answers to the questions above before I make any suspension advice.
Heres my car after replacing all the bushings on the R with Hardrace bushing, koni yellows, and brand new ITR springs from acura:
[youtube]RHxiWzqkENM[/youtube]
[youtube]RHxiWzqkENM[/youtube]
The tires are potenza re-11.
First thing is to do is to improve cornering speed. Looking to upgrade suspensions and break pads and rotors.
Then I may buy a full catback and upgrade intakes. Haven't really decided on what to do yet. But first I will upgrade my suspension.
is this car your daily driver? These look like HPDE's. As others have noted, what are your future plans fro the car?
I would thoroughly look over all the bushings on the car first before replacing the suspension. The age of these cars plus mileage often attribute to work/cracked bushings. This includes front LCA's, lower compliance, rear trailing arm, rear LCA's, front and rear swaybar endlinks, UCA's, toe compensator arms. If worn, replacing these units could drastically help the car's handling.
I'm curious on the answers to the questions above before I make any suspension advice.
I would thoroughly look over all the bushings on the car first before replacing the suspension. The age of these cars plus mileage often attribute to work/cracked bushings. This includes front LCA's, lower compliance, rear trailing arm, rear LCA's, front and rear swaybar endlinks, UCA's, toe compensator arms. If worn, replacing these units could drastically help the car's handling.
I'm curious on the answers to the questions above before I make any suspension advice.
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The DC chassis does have a lot of body roll. It's inherent with that car for whatever reason. The stock sway bars are fine for most track use. Stiffer springs/shocks reduce the body roll to a good extent, but it's kinda always going to roll. Some negative camber dialed into the suspension would help...as would lower offset wheels to kinda widen the track of the car.
How many miles does your car have on it?
How many miles does your car have on it?
The DC chassis does have a lot of body roll. It's inherent with that car for whatever reason. The stock sway bars are fine for most track use. Stiffer springs/shocks reduce the body roll to a good extent, but it's kinda always going to roll. Some negative camber dialed into the suspension would help...as would lower offset wheels to kinda widen the track of the car.
How many miles does your car have on it?
How many miles does your car have on it?
The car has 86k km on it.
Just because you don't see oil leaking from your shocks does not mean that they are still good (or working to newish specs).
Best to upgrade to a set of Koni Yellows, then if that doesn't give you what you are looking for, you can then get a set of Ground Control coilovers (made for the Koni shocks).
And yes, depending upon mileage and such, check your bushings.
Best to upgrade to a set of Koni Yellows, then if that doesn't give you what you are looking for, you can then get a set of Ground Control coilovers (made for the Koni shocks).
And yes, depending upon mileage and such, check your bushings.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
An ITR with roughly 50-60 thousand miles on it should be fine as far as shocks and bushings. But that does depend on a lot of things.
Here's a picture of my car with 360F and 380R Ground controls with factory valved Koni yellows. 225/45R15 RS3 fronts and 205/50R15 ADVAN AD08 rear. 15X6.5 +30 wheels. 23mm JDM rear bar. Looked at some vids of the car today. Pretty dang quick for what it was!
It still rolled...but a lot less than factory and my springs were definitely on the soft side:
Here's a picture of my car with 360F and 380R Ground controls with factory valved Koni yellows. 225/45R15 RS3 fronts and 205/50R15 ADVAN AD08 rear. 15X6.5 +30 wheels. 23mm JDM rear bar. Looked at some vids of the car today. Pretty dang quick for what it was!
It still rolled...but a lot less than factory and my springs were definitely on the soft side:
Last edited by B serious; Sep 10, 2012 at 09:17 AM.
does anyone make anit roll bars or sway bars for itr other than mugen?
my friend installed aftermarket sway bars on his focus svt and it made a huge improvement on handling
my friend installed aftermarket sway bars on his focus svt and it made a huge improvement on handling
Bushings should be fine at 60K though.
Honestly, the ITR OEM swaybars are pretty beefy. At this point, you're just going to need more springrate. A GSR I'd say a swaybar upgrade would be a great starting point but not with an ITR.




