Okay so I recently picked up an automatic 97 ex, so it has a y8 in it. I understand the iacv is under the throttle body but where does the sensor plug in? There is no spot for it to plug in and the plug on the harness is just sitting there. It's throwing an IACV cel, so I'm trying to figure it out. I have the same iacv as the one on top in this pic:

 

Why do you have pics for an Accord. If you have no plug you probably don't have an IACV.

 

Ok..here's what I think is going on..the item located in the top of the picture is actually a Fast Idle Control Valve and the one on the bottom is a Idle Air Control Valve. There is a difference. The Fast Idle C.V. is located on your throttle body and the Idle Air C.V. is located on your Intake Manifold and they have separate functions. Please check again on your intake manifold for the IACV as I think you may have them confused. Let me know when you find it..I know it's gotta be there. Also I don't have it but have come across a weblink somewhere that illustrates how to clean your IACV. Search google or Honda Tech for "How to Clean IACV Honda Acura" and you can see how it's done. I would certainly try to clean it before you buy a new one because this method has worked on a few cars and some others that it still needed a new IACV. But worth a shot..All in all I think you have your parts confused. Let us know how it turns out.. Good luck!

 

The automatic EX has the 3 wire IACV connected to the throttle body not the style listed above. It should look like this:



IACV

 

I think i may have had the same issue you are facing. I bought, a d16y7 with a y8 swap before i knew what the difference was. The ecu could not read the two wire IACV and threw a code. The image you posted in the two wire IACV that is attached to the back of the mani, the y7 IACV is on the bottom of the the throttle body. There is no FITV.

My first bootleg fix, was to block off the IACV by removing it, and blocking the air ports with exhaust tape. Then adjusting the idle with the air bypass screw. The car ran, but jerky, hesitation, and weird idling.

I bought a y7 TB from a junkyard for $10, a new wire IACV on ebay for $50. Make sure you get the right y7 TB gasket the porting is different. Bolted it up, bypassed the old IACV coolant lines, and left the old IACV on the back of the mani with the air ports blocked. Reset the ecu and everything was fine.

There is also a 3 wire to 2 wire IACV wire mod. This only works on ECUs designed to run the 2-wire IACV, do your homework first so you don't end up hacking up your ecu wiring for no reason.

 

Okay, I'll explain better. thanks for the responses already though.

I have an auto d16y8. It has what is pictured in the OP, the top one (They aren't for an accord.) on the bottom of the throttle body. No plug. What HondaPartsHero posted, mine doesn't look like that. There is no IACV on the back or anywhere on the manifold (the whole head is off the car right now, I would know.) It's an auto, so it'd have to be tapped for it to be added if needed.

Dunno how I can be more clean than that: tl;dr: Auto Y8 IACV on bottom of TB no plug, pictured in OP.

 

According to the Honda Service Manual for 1996-1998 Civic, the D16Y8 w/ AT has the rotary IACV with 3-wire connector just as the pic posted by HondaPartsHero mounted to the bottom of the throttle body. Also has two fittings for coolant in and out.

 

That's crazy. This is the exact one off the car, sorry for the big picture:


The car was throwing codes for IAT, which wasn't plugged in. IACV, which has the plug dangling and this is the only IACV I have. And for a knock sensor, which the block doesnt even have one in it?! wtf is going on with this car. It's definitely an EX and definitely a Y8.

 

Take a look at the parts diagram for the '95 Civic EX...I think you may have the throttlebody from a '95. The pic you posted looks just like the Fast Idle Valve on the bottom of the '95 throttle body.
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/Page_Pr...hrottle%20Body

Then compare that to the diagram of the '97 Civic EX.
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/Page_Pr...e%20Body%20(3)

 

what are the actual cel's that your pulling?
P #'s

you might have an engine that was put together with all kinds of different parts from different years...

 

Not sure on P numbers, I don't know/have tools to retrieve those.

It was codes 10 14 and 23. It's possible, I got the car from a girl, it was her first car and college car. It's all stock in every visible way possible. I'm doing a headgasket on it now, and the head is off. Noticed there is no knock sensor in the block. Lost right now.

If it turns out that I'm going to spend a **** ton more money than planned im just gonna get rid of this thing asap.

 

Ummm. That's not IACV. That's a FITV. It's mechanical. Not electrical. I think you have a similar case I had but in reverse. I bought a civic with Y8 manual but mani is for auto. Had to drill holes for IACV. Maybe your TB is for manual. So, you need auto TB.

 

For ***** and giggles (and a possible chance to solve some problems) what do the engine date stamp, the head stamp, the intake manifold stamp, and the ECU stamp read? You say it's stock, but it doesn't sound like it is.

 

After going back and reading the post from Honda Parts Hero I think what was posted by Honda Parts Hero is how it should be..However, it sounds to me like Ryan Lwin might have solved this.."Maybe your TB is for manual. So, you need auto TB." I think this is correct. Looks like you have a manual TB and in order to support the IACV function for your vehicle on the stock ECU you'll need to find an automatic style Throttle Body like Parts Hero pictured. Otherwise the Fast Idle Thermo Valve (oops I called it control valve before) come from the factory with Manual transmission vehicles. I am also curious about the engine date stamp, head stamp, intake mani stamp, and the ECU code?

 

the manual obd2 cars did not come with a FITV. the idle is controlled solely by the ecu.

 

Could I use the whole throttle body off of a d16y7? It fits right up to it and it has the right type of IACV.

 

D16Y7 is a non-VTEC engine and the throtle body/manifold are a downdraft style setup. Also, if you look at the parts diagrams that I had posted links to earlier the two throttle bodies are different part numbers, though the IACV are the same part number.
So, my *guess* would be "no", but maybe there is a work-around that someone here *knows* about.

Do you have a D16Y7 throttle body on-hand? Otherwise, if you are looking to buy a replacement throttlebody, why not just get the correct throttlebody for that engine?

Also, did you look at the parts diagrams and verify that it is ONLY the throttlebody that was swapped on your engine and not the manifold as well?

I hope all this helps get you squared away.

 

This is absolutely true and the parts diagrams verify that.

 

It's possible, it just isn't safe. I ran a mix-and-match IM/TB setup for a week before I swapped TBs. The throttle cable sticks, sometimes closed, sometimes open. Definitely not safe to do.

You can run a Y7 TB, you just have to swap the rotor from a Y8 TB.

 

okay...good info.
My wifey has a '99 D16Y7, and my daughter has a '98 D16Y8. I knew the throttle cables were routed differently and different lengths, but didn't take notice that the cable rotors were different or not.

 

Yeah. The Y7 TB rotor is a "bottom pull", the Y8 TB rotor is a "top pull".

 

You have to swap the pulley on the Y7 for one from a Y8 or any OBD1 D-series and Any B-series except GSR/B20. as well as dremel/grind out the large passage in the throttlebody.

 

I have a y7 throttle body, ill just swap the pulley's over, other than that they are the same.

 

There's a port than needs to be opened up a bit with a dremel or die grinder. Ask me how I know.

 

which port is it? pic?