hello guys.
I open this thread to discuss with you my story and try to find out whats going on with this engine.

i have a B16A2 engine with
-B16A2 crank
-eagle H-beam rods
-Darton MID sleeves
-JE pistons 84mm 9.5 cr
-dual supertech springs and ti retainers
-ITR camshafts
-Edelbrock intake manifold
-S90 70mm throtle body
-GT3582R turbo GARRETT
-BlackWorks ramhorn exhaust manifold
-38mm TiAL MVS
-3" Exhaust
-TiAL 50mm BOV QR
-walbro 400 LPH
-4bar Hondata map sensor
-Injector Dynamics 1000cc
-upgraded ignition (summitracing ignition box,msd cap and rotor,msd external coil,handmade ICS delete)

i Have stock parts like :
-Oem fuel lines
-oem fuel rail
-oem fuel regulator
-oem fuel tank


I did 600 miles slowly , carefully like everyone says for burn in my engine.
after that i worked this engine with a conservative tune because of summer.
we tunned it with with chrome and P30 ecu :
-15 degrees ignition timing advance
-10.7 air/fuel ratio
under 18 psi of pressure..

the car was about 450 whp.


I was driving the car conservative, without many hard accelarations or anything.

the car started to burn oil....about 1 liter per week (300 miles)

-first changed the valve stems...but nothing.
-then i checked the turbo oil return....i used 3/4" size...nothing.
-then i checked the turbo.......nothing!

finally i prepared my self and open up my engine..

i found a lot of oil on my pistons...
and the pistons fryied..
top piston rings were stacked.

and now i need to rehone my MID sleeves at 84,5mm and buy another pistons.

Consider not fix it again because I feared again spoil
Despair with the car.i can't imagine how this happened..

pistons became smaller with more clearance (piston to wall) because of fire.(slaping)
but my gauge says only 700 celsious peak ( i have it to downpipe)
my air/fuel wasnt poor and my ignition timming advance was safe (15 degreess)

whats going on? maybe stock fuel lines? or stock fuel rail?

please help me !!! i dont want to build a engine again and destroy it after a while.!!!

 

Sounds like detonation to me. Those ignition values you posted don't mean nothing. The ignition timing needs to be worked out on a dyno. Numbers can't just be posted up...

Have you got any pictures of the pistons ? We'll need them...

 

we used detcans when we tuned the car for first time..

then i dont touch it again because of summer.. a lot of sun and temps like 42 celsious enviroment.
this is why we tuned it with 10.5 AFR and 15 degress ignition.

i will take photos to show you tommorow.

just to inform you....
pistons havent any scrats or any hit on top of them...no marks of detonation..
are fryied from side till the top rings...the top rings stack..

i will give you photos tommorow.

 

Thats piston slap. Check that your cylinders are not out of round. Your p2w clearance may have been to tight or loose.

 

10.5:1 is wayyyyyy too rich if you're using gasoline

 

sounds like rings let go,sometimes it just happens for no reason had a stock rebuild ls do it to me re ringed the 1 cylinder and it was fine for the next 20k miles i owned it.

 

running 10.7afr is little too rich but it wouldnt damage your damage,did you ever data log your engine after the tune ? maybe you lean out ? i had my car on dyno set up at 10.9 afr on 40degrees outside after a week went to the track did one pass data log it my afr jumped to 12.4 on 6000 rpm luckily i didnt damage anything.. u might wanna tune with better ecu like AEM or hondata s300 for that set up

 

What's up with driving carefully during break in period? That's no way to seat rings. You gotta beat that crap up!

 

did you check if your oem fpr was faulty?
did you have a fuel pressure gauge?

 

couple things, one 10.7 afr is borderline cylinder wash down, that will wreck your new rings, you should be at most 11.5 afr. two, you broke the engine in wrong, you dont be gentle on these things, you warm them up on the dino oil, do all your post start checks, like look for leaks, adjust the idle, etc, drain your oil and switch to whatever your gonna use, and then you beat the ***** off it. The rings need to see varying degrees of vac and boost to seat them into position. third, crome really is no way to tune, i dont like dissing the program but its old, and support for it is all but non existent. If your gonna run crome, you need to have it tuned by a pro because there are issues with that program that really dont make it "beginner" friendly.

 

i am sure about this..pistons slaps...i saw them yesterday..
i have some scratches on cylinder walls...too bad...i need to hone it again.

i used pump gas 95 octane..but last weeks i decided to use only 100 octane gas. for sure is to rich...but this keep the engine cool....didnt fryied 4 pistons?
am i wrong?


i know...but here we have 4 pistons fryied till the top rings...and slapping to the walls.



i never data log my engine... i am just carefull with it. maybe for some reason it lean a lot... i dont know...
i believe this too about hondata or AEM..maybe crome has a lot of bugs..
bur i keep dont understanding why...



i break in my engine the right way...i beat it 20%-40%-60%-80% . a lot of vacuum conditions... 3 oil changes..first NO synthetic and last 10w40 Amsoil AMO full synthetic


i checked....for this reason we used 2 AEM UEGO wideband sensors..
one already installed to my exhaust under the engine position.
and another at the end of the exhaust.

 

ok...
1) 10.5 afr can make this high temps?

2)i broke in right.. a lot of vac situations. 3 oil changes. but i still did some miles the easy way. after all..you cant tune it if you didnt beat it.

3)i start to thinking about crome..for sure it has some bugs. my tuner isnt begginer and we have a lot of N/A cars tuned with crome and NO problems...
only turbo problems..


what can i do? buy neptune? or s300? with oem dizzy?

this is very wierd...i have to find out because is shame to build a engine with very expensive parts and after 1600 miles blew.

i was thinking about fuel lines too..or stock fuel rail.. i dont know. i am very confused..

 

i want to tell you that

i upgrade my ignition too..

i used summitracing ignition box
with msd external coil
msd cap and rotor
and handmade ICS.

 

 

that doesn't look like a 10.something afr piston to me... looks like you ran way too lean and melted the piston.

 

i believe that too...but how the hell this happened.?
pistons melt and then top rings stack..

 

what afr gauge are you using? seems like it wasnt accurate at all.

 

2 x AEM uego widebands.

1 already installed in the exhaust under the engine
and another one (my tuner wideband) in muffler.

isnt good the UEGO? which is better?

 

Im not exactly sure what to think at this point. What plugs are you using? Personally id ditch crome and verify the calibration on your o2 sensors is correct. Obviously 10.7 AFR is NOT where you want to be, but it shouldnt have caused the pistons to melt.

 

What does the combustion chamber look like ? Pictures ???

 

BKR9EIX iridium spark plugs
NGK wires
msd cap and rotor
summit racing ignition box
MSD 8207 external coil


i have no pictures right now.. it has a lot of oil burned on it.
no scratches or hits

 

What I find interesting is that nobody seems to think ~1,300* F in the DOWNPIPE is alarming...

 

the weird think is that the gas temp gauge (installed on downpipe) never goes upper than 1290* F

 

Could the ignition timing have been so retarded that it caused EGTs to sky rocket?

 

Maybe so, to retarded can be just as disastrous as to advanced.