As I upgrade from ponys to clidesdales, I'm gonna need more stopping power...Brembo would be ideal, but I don't have a Brembo sized wallet...anyone know of any good quality kits at a lower price range?

 

Read sticky and you will find all the info.



Reading own?

 

How much power are we talking here?

 

Within the last week:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-54/type-r-calipers-over-rated-3079207/

https://honda-tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-54/big-brake-upgrade-but-thats-inexpensive-3084939/

Stickied:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-54/brakeexperts-brake-chart-thread-civic-brake-upgrades-ef-eg-ek-integras-3044628/

How much power you are making is borderline irrelevant unless we are talking road racing and/or a heavy car. Plenty of drag guys are stopping from 140+ on 9.5" rotors.

In short, you don't need Brembo money to stop a car.

 

It's entirely relevant for a road/track car, more power means more heat put into them. So 9.5" rotors might provide enough force to stop a car after a 1/4 sprint but they'd be toast after a few corners in a 200whp track car,

 

You're absolutely correct, and my response was poorly worded. OP needs to state what kind of power he is making, but its more important to know how it is going to be used.

Street car: just needs good pads, straight rotors, and fresh fluid (in most cases)
Track car: needs more heat capacity


Seems like the big brake question is becoming the new "which coilover should get"

 

It's ridiculous how much the "big brake" topic has blown up recently. Problem is that if you don't know, chances are you don't need it and won't use it to it's full potential. People forget that pads dictate the majority of stopping power. Larger diameter and/or thicker rotors, while it does provide more braking torque, it is mostly for heat dissipation. Then you run into tire limited braking with big brakes and street tires.

 

Tru dat. If you can't generate the energy in the first place, there's no need to dissipate it with massive brakes.

 

Type R calipers and brackets (Napa remaned?) Mini cooper s front rotors, for the front.

REAR RSX caliper bracket and pads, EP3 rear Rotor.

 

Thank you everyone for your opinions and useful info, I'll take all of it into consideration

 

Couldn't agree more with you. I didn't see to many back when I did mine, now all of a sudden in the past few weeks, things have blown up in spectactular fashion.

No one seems to realize that if you are just street driving the car a BBK will make no difference. The idea of a BBK is for track use where you need a bigger heat sink. I can say going from stock gsr brakes w/ oem pads and rotors to the dual piston legend setup with hawk blue pads and legend 28mm thick rotors is night and day when you really heat up the brakes and stand on them. Brake fade is no more. Again if you are just driving on the street, all you need is a good brake pad, straight rotors, and good dot4 fluid like motul rbf or ate super blue. My setup vs the stock gsr setup is not really any different on the street, but the difference immediately noticeable when they get hot.

 

wilwood dynalite?

 

11'' rotors and itr calipers are not a big brake kit. 13'' stoptechs are a bbk.

 

Don't forget to mention he'll need to flip the calipers. IIRC, you pretty much loose the emgency brake at that point.


If i'm wrong or I have something mixed up, please correct me.

 

Hence why I bought brand new ITR calipers from Honda. **** that nonsense when I bleed brakes as much as I do. Fluid gets changed probably every 2,500 miles. I like to keep it fresh and clear. I'll probably do every 5,000 miles once I get some ATE super blue.

 

If it's bigger than what you had originally then it's a BBK.

 

Invest in a vacumn bleeder, or me, I just picked some speedbleeders.
I HATE bleeding brakes.

 

no, they are still fully functional. you just need to swap the lever from your old ones to the rsx ones. (they have a different end on the cable)

 

I have yet to do this, but from EVERYTHING i have read, the pads just need to be thinned a tiny bit to fit without smashing your caliper on. I have not heard of losing the e-brake? Guess I'll see when I actually do this.

 

This is news to me. Opposite from what I've heard.

I was told that you had to swap sides becuase of the bleeders. And becuase of that the e brake is weird. But I guess you just swap the orginal lever over? I need to do a bit more digging.

I had the chance to get brand new EP3 calipers for dirt and I passed it up.

 

i have rsx rear calipers on my 99. it sucked to bleed, but thankfully i have a power bleeder.

 

Did you flip the calipers?


I want a power bleeder, my speedbleeders will have to do for now.

 

yes flip the calipers. if you didn't, the ebrake mechanism would be on the bottom.

 

as mentioned if you swap your old e-brake lever from your old calipers to the new ones then it works fine with your existing cables.
I have RSX-S brakes on my '00 civic and will go with big brakes over aggressive pads 10/10 times on a street car. It's nice never having to change your pads or rotors and getting all the other OEM niceness while still being able to lock the wheels on command at just about any speed.

 

I'll admit there is that factor. I got like 50k out of a set of stock itr pads.

All I want to do is to dispel the myth the big brakes will decrease your stopping distance. If you have enough brake to lock the wheels, then having more brake will not change a thing.