Hi guys.. I just finished my first turbo set up.. I'm new at this so please take it easy on me!
So I installed everything and started the car and noticed a couple of things I'll list them below please any help would be Apriciated.

I'll start with my set up.

D16y7 1999 Honda civic dx

I got t3 t4 turbo for free from a friend (y the hell not right!)
Converted for obd2 to obd1 p28 ecu
255 wilbro fuel pump
340cc injectors ( saturated not peek and hold so didn't need to add resistor box)
2.5 downpipe
Megan cat back
No Cat
I also changed my spark plugs and wires I gabed them 0.041


After first start up (finaly) I noticed it was miss firing and an engine light was on I tried reading the engine light but the machine couldnt read it and kept saying error.. The car hasn't been dyno tuned yet (I don't know if that would make a difference) another thing I noticed that it was revving low at first and after I gave it a tiny bit of gas the engine reved a bit higher.. I'm actually a bit confused so please let me know what you guys think.

 

First off, you need a tune. The stock ECU can't handle a turbo. First, open your ECU and make sure it has a socket. Second, go through http://www.xenocron.com/. If your ECU doesn't have a socket, either order an already socketed ECU through xeno, or find a company that offers professional socket installation. If your ECU does have a socket already installed, order a custom basemap from them.

If anything I just said confuses you, even the littlest bit, CALL THEM.

As for pulling codes, you converted to OBD1, so your OBD2 reader plug will no longer work. Check the stickies for a how-to for pulling codes. Once you have the codes, post those up and we can work from there.

THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT! Do not run your car without at least a basemap!

 

Ok perfect now I know y the reader won't work!!! As for the ecu it is socketed and I do have basemap on it for a turbo d16y7 turbines with 340cc injectors, I will b getting the car professionally dyno tuned as soon as its ready for it! I will look into the codes thank you soo much. If you have any info please I can use the help

 

If it's chipped and running a reputable basemap, that shouldn't be too much of a problem.

Post up the codes as soon as you get the chance, and we can work from there. While you're at it, go ahead and replace the plugs with some proper, copper cored NGK plugs that are one or two temp ranges below what you have now. When you did the turbo install, did you install new plugs, or use the old ones?

 

I installed new NgK plugs and wires and I got ones that run colder by 1 level then the oreginals! I will try and get the code tomorrow after work.. I apreciate ur help man.

 

Anytime, it gives me something to do while I'm bored at work

While you're pulling the codes, also pull the spark plugs, feel for moisture, take clear pictures of the electrodes, and post them up. Spark plugs can tell you a lot about how an engine is running.

 

Check for spark in all 4 cylinders. Is your timing spot-on?

 

It's not the timing. Like others have mentioned, the car needs a ENGINE MANAGEMENT setup.

 

Jump the blue 2 wire connector by ur ecu that's tucked under the glove box. Your using a p28 so ur code should be NO vtec, code 21. 2 long blinks and 1 short. Also what psi is the turbo at now? Your plug gap should be a lil lower than .41

 

Did you convert to a two wire IACV or are you still running the Y7 intake manifold and throttle body?

 

I didn't get to work on the car today but I will check the codes tomorrow... I am still runnin the y7 intake and throttle..Can you please explain what IACV stands for? And if the code is no vtec would that couse a missfire? I wouldn't think so but u never know...As for the timing Do you mean timing belt? I didn't do anything to it so it should b perfectly fine. And by engine management setup could you please explain like I mentioned I will get the car dyno tuned but I just don't want to take it to my tuner while it's misfiring and something is wrong
And right now I'm running 7 psi on stick internals witch is in the safe zone

Thanks for the replies guys

 

vtec not working would not cause a misfire code, but a misfire code could disable vtec. Stop thinking about vtec, though - you don't have it.

IACV = Idle Air Control Valve. It's what regulates how much air the motor gets during a cold start. The Y7 IM is robbing you of a little bit of power, but shouldn't be causing these issues.

Engine management is what I was saying. A basemap, which you say you already have. Once again, push it to the back of your mind if you're 100% you have a chip and a basemap for your setup on that chip.

FYI, "7 psi" doesn't mean anything, safety wise. Different turbos push different volumes of air at 7 PSI.

Once you pull the codes, get back to us and we can work from there.

 

IM wont rob too much but the IACV not being converted will throw an engine light, here's how you'll have to convert it:




Plus do you have the first 02 hooked up at all since you deleted the y7 exhaust manifold?

 

Ok I will find the codes today!

As for the IACV I have a plug and play wiring harness from obd2 to obd1.. Wouldn't that harness cover the converssion? Or would I still have to do this my self?

And ye I plugged my primary o2 back in but it went in pass the downpipe into the test pipe I had to extend the wires now from what I know is that the sensor works off resistance.. Would extending the wires effect the reading?

As for the secondary o2 I just unplugged it cuz the p28 wouldn't even b looking for a reading sense it doesn't require it right?

 

P28s do not look for a 2nd O2 and your harness DOES NOT do anything for the IACV wiring

BTW. You CANNOT, I repeat, CANNOT get a chip with a basemap on it tuned. If your tuner is not capable of burning chips for that ECU then you will HAVE to get some form of EMS.

 

Hi guys another thing that came to my attention is that my oil pressure gauge is readying 80psi on idle! I'm sure that not normal.. I honestly not sure what's going on

 

Okay i finaly got the codes!
Well my engine light flashed 15, 21, 22, 24
And my abs light was falshing 16, 18, 54, 61!

I know 21 and 22 are vtec can you guys please wxplain the rest!

I also pulled out the spark blugs and they are black! Ill post pics of them as soon as im at a computer!

And i started te car again let it warm up and oil pressure dropper to 30psi still seems abit high to me

 

The Ultimate Codes Thread: How To Pull CEL, D4, SRS, and ABS Codes (with Code Lists)
This has been stickied since before you joined H-T. YOu really need to familiarize yourself with the forum.

If your plugs are black you're running rich. Lemme guess, you're not running any kind of wideband to monitor AFRs either.

Why does the oil pressure seem high to you? What would not seem high to you? Do you know what the minimum oil safe pressure is? My pressure at warm idle is 40PSI. At cold idle it's 100PSI.

 

I thought notmall is between 15 and 25? I might be wrong like i said its my first turno build i have alot to learn! Thanks for the feesback on ur pressures now i feel better lol im redearching the code now!

 

What is normal about a turbo'd Civic?
So are you, or are you not running a wideband O2 sensor with a gauge?

 

I put in a new o2 sensor and fa gauge the gadge is reading lean now that tou say in runing rich im getting thought that the o2 sensor is not working..

 

Do. You. Have. A. REAL. Wideband. O2. Sensor. With. Gauge? This would be something like an AEM UEGO. If not you have nothing more than a lightshow that doesn't tell you anything.

 

first off, the ECU is not programmed to run the 340 injectors. theres your 1st mistake.
Theres alot more to turboing a civic then slapping on parts and expecting it all to work.

Put in the normal OEM injectors until you get it to a tuner. If you must drive it, take the charge pipe off the throttle body.


You need to do this right before doing damage to your engine. You have alot to learn.

 

The ecu wa programmed with basemap for turbo and 340cc injectors....what I need to know is of all these cels are something normal before getting dyno tune and if a dyno tune would solve the misfire or is there something that I need to do b4 taking it to my tuner.. I know I have a lot to learn no one is born with knowledge thanks for the advice..

Now sense the plugs are black means I'm running rich, does the tuner take care of that or is there something I need to do to fix it.. One of the cels is fuel ingectors, woud a tune fix such problems

I will search The o2 sensor, I do not have a wideband with gauge I will buy one if it's needed ASAP.

 

No, it is not normal to have any CELs after a proper turbo installation. Now that you have ll of them written down, reset your ECU and see which ones come back. Post up with the ones that come back. Before you do ANY of this though, go drop a couple bills on a good wideband. If all it says is "rich" "lean", it isn't a wideband. Get yourself an LS-1, or an AEM UEGO, like grumble said. Also, do you have a retrictor in your oil feed line for the turbo? How are the feed and return lines routed?