Crx 98 type-r swap digital vs cable speedo obd2a issue

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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 10:21 PM
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Icon6 Crx 98 type-r swap digital vs cable speedo obd2a issue

Just wondering if anyone has ever come across this one. I have a 91 crx that I purchased with a 96 gsr full swap with s80 hydro tranny. It was running obd1 and has a cable input for speedo on tranny. I just ordered a 98 spec type r swap and the s80 tranny that came with it has a digital speed sensor. It appears that the digital speed sensor could be unbolted and swapped for the cable sensor. If I did this could I not run the obd2a p73 ecu? Would it throw a check light for no speed sensor? Is my options no speedo, have on check light or run obd1? Thanks guys
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 10:41 PM
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Default Re: Crx 98 type-r swap digital vs cable speedo obd2a issue

you're actually dealing with 2 different systems there. the speed sensor has nothing to do with which obd you run. the stock crx gauge cluster actually converts the mechanical movement into an electronic signal in the cluster vs in the transmission. either way the ecu receives an electronic signal. so unless you want to swap your gauge cluster out i'd re use the mechanical speed sensor.

secondly, stay obd1. have an itr base map loaded onto the obd1 ecu (probably already chipped for the gsr motor) and will be plug and play un like going obd2
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 12:34 PM
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Default Re: Crx 98 type-r swap digital vs cable speedo obd2a issue

Thank you for the reply. So my cluster is converting the speed to digital and then sending the signal from the cluster to the ecu? Yes I already have a re-writable chip in a p28. Was under the impression that obd2 would be more adaptable to different climate temp changes etc. but I would be down with a plug and play easier setup to install trouble shoot and tune. Thank you again for your response
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 04:51 PM
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Default Re: Crx 98 type-r swap digital vs cable speedo obd2a issue

I have a obd2 type-r. I agree with the previous post. Keep your cable speed sensor unless your swapping your cluster also. Additionally, you will just want to keep your existing obd1 wiring, ecu, and distributor. If you get the real obd2 from the ITR you will have to remove the immobolizer from it, after looking long and hard, you can find a how-to on that. But I will eventually go to obd1, since it is better for tuning.
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