Hey, so I'm doing a swap and it's probably some stupid little thing that's not allowing it to start. I believe I'm doing everything the right way, no half-assing here. The problem Is that I'm not getting spark or gas. I checked and the fuel pump isn't getting power. Also, everything ran fine before the swap. Here's the setup:

96 Integra ls swap w/ tranny
Rywire jumpers for obd2 dizzy and obd1 ecu
Phearable.net obd1 non-vtec ecu w/ 02 sensor disabled
New OEM thermostat
New NGK spark plugs and wires

Some of the new sensors dont match up so i can't plug them in. Maybe someone has done exactly this and can shed some light to whats wrong. Pics are down below.

Is there a list of all grounds that I should check?

And, on a side note, would the car be able to cool the engine without the smaller dirver's side fan? It is less than a millimeter away from the header and I don't want to melt it.

And it looks real nice at least.

 

So I extended that wire to the sensor, and it fit. I also noticed that my ground wire that's supposed to go to the thermostat housing wasn't connected, so i fixed that too. Just about every sensor is hooked up, except one. There is a cable that is supposed to go behind the intake manifold and connect to it, but there's no place for it on the new motor. I tried to start it, engine light went on, turned off, changed from my pm6 ecu to my obd1 phearable.net ecu and it didn't come back on. It's still not starting though.

 

Pump prime?

Spark?

CEL codes?

 

Are you using the oem si wire engine harness? And did you delete your resistor box if your using the oem ( high independance injectors?

 

Alright so I am now getting gas through the line, I'll have to see if the injectors are firing. I am not sure about spark yet because I need a longer socket extension to get my spark plug out. I am also getting a code 8 which is throttle position sensor. I'm dead sure that I didn't confuse the wires for the MAP sensor. I'll switch them and see what happens. Should probably check to see that the wires didn't come loose at the ecu pigtail. I could also take the the tps off my d16a6. Would that work?

I am using my stock Si wiring harness and I have gotten rid of the resistor box. Rywire's instructions say that I should depin the pigtail and put all the wires in a nice gray box like so:


But I just unplugged it and put some temporary tape over it:

 

Code 8 is for the TDC sensor.

 

Oh phearable.net says other wise, but that does make a lot more sense. Coming out of where the crankshaft pulley is, there is the tdc sensor pigtail, but I have no clue as to where is goes. There is another connector from my harness that goes no where. I'm pretty sure it went to something on the intake manifold. How should I fix this?

 

Damn I was reading the chart wrong.

 

I think you need an obd1 distributor. Iirc, the obd2 doesn't have a tdc sensor inside because it's located near the crank pulley.

 

Yeah and I have the Rywire jumper. Should I just wire it right to the ecu?

 

You should contact Rywire and ask them.

 

So i pulled the two tdc pins out of the dizzy pigtail and wired it it the sensor temporarily, and nothing. I switched to my obd1 phearable ecu and now I am also reading either a code 6 , 8, and 10 or a code 16 and 8. It's hard to tell. It goes ...... ........ - and repeats.

 

Check for swapped and unplugged sensor connectors.

 

I know that there is a stray pigtail behind the intake manifold and one over by the passenger fan but they don't go anywhere.

Here's the video of my engine codes:

 

Video not visible

 

make sure you disconnect your ecu for a few minutes. may be throwing codes causing it not to crank from different ecu. just a thought

 

Good idea. Can you tell me what codes it's throwing?

 

Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) System Indicated
0 Engine Control Module (ECM)
1 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S)
3 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP Sensor)
4 Crankshaft Position (CKP Sensor)
6 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT Sensor)
7 Throttle Position (TP Sensor)
8 Top Dead Center Position (TDC Sensor)
9 No. 1 Cylinder Position (CYP Sensor)
10 Intake Air Temperature (IAT Sensor)
13 Barometric Pressure (BARO Sensor)
14 Idle Air Control (IAC Valve)
15 Ignition Output Signal
16 Fuel Injector
17 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
20 Electrical Load Detector (ELD)
21 Variable Valve Timing & Valve Lift Electronic Control Solenoid Valve (VTEC Solenoid Valve)
22 Variable Valve Timing & Valve Lift Electronic Control Pressure Switch (VTEC Pressure Switch)
23 Knock Sensor (KS)
30 A/T FI Signal A
31 A/T FI Signal B
41 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater
43 Fuel Supply System

this is obd0 cec's.

 

no code 18, probably code 1, and code 8.

 

Btw it's an OBD1 ecu if it makes a difference for codes. I'll try unplugging it and recheck my codes.

 

not sure if theyre the same. possibly. disconnect your battery too.

 

Alright. I'll try to take another video, a clearer one. I swear reading codes is like a foreign language.

 

What injectors are you using? The correct voltage to injectors needs to be addressed...

The gray box in rywire's instructions is running power (the single yellow wire coming off the big round white connector) directly to each line (the four red wires) which run to each injector.

 

I'm using the OBD2 injectors, which require 12V instead of 5.5V. Where do I get a gray box like that or wire it without the box?

 

You will need to get obd2 injector clips and splice the wires into your obd0 harness.

OBD0 injector order, where 1 is closest to the timing belt.
1 brown
2 red
3 white
4 yellow

OBD1 INJECTORS
1 brown
2 red
3 blue
4 yellow

Yellow/black is power.

Sorry but I never used obd2 injectors or clips but they must be similar. You should get the idea from the info above.