The car is an '88 HF with a D16Y8 swapped in.

The primary problem is that the alternator MUST come out through the top. I have nowhere where I could jack the car up (options are flat dirt, or 45 degree concrete).

There doesn't seem to be enough room on the driver side without disconnecting the brake lines, bleeding the brakes, etc.

Any suggestions?

 

try removing your intake tube and maybe battery. reach your arm around and under and hand the alt. over to the passenger side and out that way. sorry if my description is vague. hope you get the idea

 

I get what you're saying, I think. You mean bring the alternator under the intake manifold?

I'm just hoping there's enough room back there.

 

Going through the top probably won't work unless you remove the IM or master cylinder.
On my CRX Si with the original D16A6 I found a pretty easy way.
Take off the corner splash guard on the driver side (it's the one that has a long slot where the radius rod goes through. Crank the wheels all to the left. You should have enough room the pull the alternator out where the timing belt is, but more towards the front. You'll have to try because the alternator has to be in a specific position for it to come out

 

dealing with the same pleasure right now as well. i read a couple different ways that worked for people. fuel rail to be taking off seemed to work for someone. brake master cylinder off seemed to work but a lot of negative sentiment toward moving this around for possibly jacking up of the hard lines. the one from hatch89 above i have heard work as well. just magically dropping out the bottom i read a few people lucky enough to have happen. taking the bracket off will help in any case i believe. there are a few posts with photos for orientation. got to look through a little bit though. seems like a lot of alternators took a crap in the last few days.

 

From the bottom just is not an option where the car is housed (and alternator is already disconnected).

I can pull my alternator through the top on my '98 Civic, but there's just less room on the '88 due to the intake manifold.

 

ANSWER:

Remove the brake master cylinder from the booster and tuck it "forward, out and down" against the strut tower.

This will give you enough room to pull the alternator through the top, after the top bracket is also removed (which we did last night).

Just finishing things up now. Super easy (even for my Ford guy!).

Thanks all for the help!

 

Just pull the drivers side axle, that's how you have to do it on a b18 crx.

 

Official EF Alternator thread https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ght=alternator

 

I doubt it. I moved my master cylinder on my lsv crx ad alternator came right out. No need to remove the axle

 

should come out though the are were the fuel filter.

 

It could not go through the bottom. Please read the first post before replying.
I looked at that thread (after seeing your same post in another thread) and didn't find any help. Your thread goes over alternator plugs, wiring, belts, alternator differences, using D-series alternators on B-series engines, amperage outputs, and removal of an alternator on a B-series swapped CRX. Sorry. Thank you.

[COLOR="red"][b]AGAIN, THREAD HAS BEEN SOLVED!

 

w/ my z6 i had to pass it under the intake mainifold, remove heater hose and intake arm, pull out by the TB. i couldn't clear the space between the intake and the master cylinder.