As the title says , it might sound odd but this is the best way to have manual tension on an H22.
this conversion will make belt tensioning, servicing so much easier.
Your h22 becomes identical to B-Series in a way.
No more having to deal with the stock h22 hydraulic tensioner and its method of applying tension.
Not to mention all the horror stories of when those things go bad. this is the only way we have run
H-Series engines.
This method cost only the price of the tensioner ( napa auto parts 33$ bucks for tensioner)
and takes less the 30 min to modify the tensioner.


Parts Needed.

1. B-series tensioner (used or new)
2. 7/16 thread - 20 pitch - 2 inch long bolt. can also use 2 1/4 inch long
3. B-Series tensioner pivot screw

Benifits.

1. You apply tension in one direction

2. Easy tool fitment between frame rail.

3. No need to replace H22 timing belt or water pump.

4. B-Series tensioner anchors onto the block, instead of H22 tensioner anchors to water pump with much smaller bolt size and less depth of threads.

Procedure

5. More torque can be applied to the tensioner bolt than you could to an H22.

1. First you remove material from center of tensioner, enlarging in width and length. also following the original curve. Only cut what is needed.

2. Remove material from backplate of tensioner, this is so the tensioner has more swing. If this is not done the tensioner will hit the bottom bolt perimeter of the motor mount bracket casting. be careful to not scratch or grind the belt surface.

3. Slightly enlarge the pivot hole on tensioner, twice its original size is best.

4. On your h22 block you can install the B-series tensioner pivot screw. Or you can make your own by cutting a 10mm bolt down to 20 mm and removing the threads. ( just use the B-Series tensioner pivot screw )

5. Test fit everything and check for proper swing and if it binds or needs more material removed this is the time to do it.

Thats it your finished .

I encourage anyone to try this and share it here, I will also answer any questions directly on the thread. Thanks for checking this out.

 

Well you can also use the manual tensioner from the f22 block or f23 blocks also but it does need the washer an M11 bolt that they use. I found that out myself and has worked great for me. This is rather a cheaper way though not bad.

 

what are the benefits to the tensioner and is this only for a h2b ? or just h

 

Benefits are listed in the first post, any way of manual tensioning an H is much safer since the stock H series tensioners have been known to fail.

 

what cams are those ?

 

We have used the H23/F22 tensioner, with that you need at least 3mm of backspacing so the belt will not overhang. It is also a 62mm diameter, much larger than H22. It does release the belt but has less tensioner swing and clearance against balance shaft housing.

I wanted a tensioner that will keep the diameter and backspace the same as an H22 without using the water pump as an anchor and the drama of the hydraulic tensioner.

 

Great writeup and definitely a more practical approach.

 

Well played. Your ability as a builder and fabricator is always on display with everything you do. I'm a big fan of your work. Great write up.

 

Thanks Ivan, I appreciate it.

 

great write up... even tho i used the kaizenspeed tensioner and i love it.. my belt hasnt came loose yet like most b series after a while there's slack mine is still tight from the day i set it... also had a couple of mis haps doing the 1-2-3 -2 shift and my belt didnt jump any teeth or anything....

great writeup... next h i do i will try this over the kaizenspeed