ok so i can buy a h23 block with internals and another complete h23 engine wires ecu everything i keep looking for info on the h23 frankie but nothing really comes up besides a lot of hating on the set up oh yeah i forgot i can get all that stuff for 200 bucks so my ? i wanna try the set up and i read that the block comes up .01 out of the block how do you fix that or do you just run the car like that im guessing you dont lol correct me please and lmk what u think i mean for 200 bucks thats a good start i would just need a head and tranny

 

i want to know this too! nothing comes up but haters saying its a fail and my h22 rod is messed up so idk what to do !!!!!

 

If you guys read the FAQ's, there is a huge thread on exactly how to do this.

Some of us really like this combo, especially if you take the time to do it right, it can be quite successfull. Mine was, until I roasted a piston with too much nitrous, but I am building it again with a few new specs in mind.

The easy way is to just buy an H23A bluetop though, and most places sell them cheaper than an H22A. just swap a few parts from your old engine, and all is good, pretty much just like swapping a newer H22 into an obd1 car.

 

how much more power does the blue block give?

 

whats the difference between the jdm black top than the blue top ? and would a t2t4 tranny fit my prelude?

 

torque is the reason people go with h23vtec, whether it's a bluetop or frankenstein. not so much the increase, but the way its delivered. they also have the potential to put down very good numbers with the right mods.

 

The blue top doesn't have the compression the frank with type-s pistons does though.

There is more power to be had with the frank, if you feel comfortable with the setup.

 

The piston sticking up. 010 out of the deck is plenty of room for the head and valves when you put the headasket in place. Even with big cames. Ill have to check my spec book but my piston sticks out right around. 020. The big factor there with my compression is the dome cc.

 

Hey q16, my setup is sitting in my closet patiently waiting for me to put the head on the block. [H23 block, crank, rods, Type-S pistons, H22 head, stock valvetrain]

I just picked up some S2 pro1s, should I worry about p2v clearance with an OEM head gasket?

 

How far does the piston floor stick out of the block? I run a 30 hg on my motor with pro3 and have ALOT of room. My pistons were cut down and i dont remember my piston to deck atm.

 

The parts are 100% stock, nothing has been cut down.

Isn't the stock HG .026? or something close to that?

 

Stock honda yes. Clay and measure. Only way to properly do it. Get yourself a belben cam degree and wheel setup through xenocron.

 

With PRO1s on my setup, with the std JDM pistons, I had alot of clearance for the dome of the piston, but the valve reliefs got pretty close at some points.

When claying, I went from like -3 or so on both cams , up to +5 Intake and +7 exhaust I think and was clear by at least .037 from the closest point.

If I had measured straight through, the clearance was huge, but I sliced the clay after rotating the engine to verify everything.

Oh and after taking my timing assembly and head on and off 6 times in one day, I am spending the coin on a Belben setup next build I do!

 

thanks guys for the advice i ended up picking up the parts imma keep doing some research on honda h since im not to familiar with it and ill keep asking a lot of ?'s on here if any one can hook me a with a parts list thatd be great what chasis are you guys running these set ups in ?

 

I have F22a1 block and H23a1 head. My beat advice is to avoid the headache. Ive had random problems with mine ever since it got done.
Granted, i have it built and boosted, but its still less of a headache to just go with a matching engine setup. Ive read about some people getting them to work great, and good for them, and i hope you do too. I can get you a fully built f22a1 block for cheap btw. (its mine lol).

 

Also, i beleive for the 23/22 setup, you need to find a way to install the oil squirters on the block IIRC. I had thoughts of this build a few years ago and thats what i was told.

 

That hybrid is different and requires a few extra steps. Once you have the right parta for the h23vtec it goes together like oem, unlike the f22/h23.


You also dont have to have oil squirters.

 

Mine is going in an H2b EG chassis.

H2b ... H block with adapter to mount a b-series trans. Its H22 with ITBs and an LSD B16 tranny, base mapped on e85.

It'd be fast but it's only running on 3 cylinders right now, as best as I can tell. Still ran a 13.7@100 with a burnt up stock clutch though.

 

hey by any chance does anyone have part numbers for the timming pulleys i will need ?

 

so im finally starting this build ! i got the head off the block and looks like cylinder 3 has some scoring on in so imma have to bore it out i jusr need help on piston choice im probbly gonna go to 87mm but dont know what brand pistons to get im not trying to spend crazy money but enough to be decent

 

The stock bore is already 87mm. The block is made of frm material that takes special stones to bore out in a much slower fashion than standard cylinder honing. Verify with the machine shop that you will have doing this work that they are aware of this. Also you will have to go with a piston that is compatible with frm cylinder walls, unless you want to go with a dry or wet sleeve setup.

 

Stock already is 87mm.

You can't just bore it out and run any piston though. For an FRM cylinder you are limited to an OEM piston or the Mahle, in your case you would need the 87.25mm.

If you want to run any other piston you will have to sleeve the block with an iron sleeve to do so.

 

aw man im an idiot lol and ok thanks i gotta fing a machine shop that bores frm so mahle then ? i been looking i just want peoples opinians that have used them befor. this is my first h so im not too sure on wat brands oe better than other for the h

 

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...da_frm_liners/

 

thanks it was helpful i cant seem to find a shop that can bore the frm