HELP PLEASE OEM REBUILT BURNING COOLANT
Hi, I am really STUMP on this rebuilt. The car was boosted and stop running and I rebuilt it with alot of brand new parts, list down on the bottom of the page. Took the head and the block to a shop to be resurface and rebuild everything on the car. PLEASE TAKE A LOOK AT THE VIDEO AND GIVE ME SOME OF YOUR INPUT OR THOUGHTS ON THE CAR THNK YOU.
-only thing I can think of is cutting down the dowel pins cuz its seems to be burning coolant and wont idle correctly, the headgasket was put on correct, its the 2nd one. did coolant pressure test seems to hold on cold start but on hot start it loses pressure
Take a peek at the video and tell me what you think. If you have any questions, just ask.
Cliff notes:
-coolant is not mixing with oil
-cylinder head and block were both resurfaced
-stock bore
-new rings, bearings, gaskets, valves, valve guides, valve stem seals, head bolts, plugs, wires
-cylinder was checked for straightness by machine shop and came out good
-running on 2nd head gasket now with copper spray
-new head bolts torqued to spec and in sequence
-head bolt bores cleaned and blow dried
-dowel pins fully seated
-added an extra washer to each head bolt to ensure that the head bolts aren't bottoming out from the resurfacing
-coolant lines correct
-3rd intake manifold gasket
-OBD1 Injectors swapped with known good injectors
-tried new TPS and MAP but still no change
-No CEL's
-tried another known good ECU
-tried another known good distributor
-MAP and TPS connectors are not switched
2000 Honda Civic SI 1.6l DOHC.
Take a peek at the video and tell me what you think. If you have any questions, just ask.
Cliff notes:
-coolant is not mixing with oil
-cylinder head and block were both resurfaced
-stock bore
-new rings, bearings, gaskets, valves, valve guides, valve stem seals, head bolts, plugs, wires
-cylinder was checked for straightness by machine shop and came out good
-running on 2nd head gasket now with copper spray
-new head bolts torqued to spec and in sequence
-head bolt bores cleaned and blow dried
-dowel pins fully seated
-added an extra washer to each head bolt to ensure that the head bolts aren't bottoming out from the resurfacing
-coolant lines correct
-3rd intake manifold gasket
-OBD1 Injectors swapped with known good injectors
-tried new TPS and MAP but still no change
-No CEL's
-tried another known good ECU
-tried another known good distributor
-MAP and TPS connectors are not switched
2000 Honda Civic SI 1.6l DOHC
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dagm3ShGyE4
-only thing I can think of is cutting down the dowel pins cuz its seems to be burning coolant and wont idle correctly, the headgasket was put on correct, its the 2nd one. did coolant pressure test seems to hold on cold start but on hot start it loses pressure
Take a peek at the video and tell me what you think. If you have any questions, just ask.
Cliff notes:
-coolant is not mixing with oil
-cylinder head and block were both resurfaced
-stock bore
-new rings, bearings, gaskets, valves, valve guides, valve stem seals, head bolts, plugs, wires
-cylinder was checked for straightness by machine shop and came out good
-running on 2nd head gasket now with copper spray
-new head bolts torqued to spec and in sequence
-head bolt bores cleaned and blow dried
-dowel pins fully seated
-added an extra washer to each head bolt to ensure that the head bolts aren't bottoming out from the resurfacing
-coolant lines correct
-3rd intake manifold gasket
-OBD1 Injectors swapped with known good injectors
-tried new TPS and MAP but still no change
-No CEL's
-tried another known good ECU
-tried another known good distributor
-MAP and TPS connectors are not switched
2000 Honda Civic SI 1.6l DOHC.
Take a peek at the video and tell me what you think. If you have any questions, just ask.
Cliff notes:
-coolant is not mixing with oil
-cylinder head and block were both resurfaced
-stock bore
-new rings, bearings, gaskets, valves, valve guides, valve stem seals, head bolts, plugs, wires
-cylinder was checked for straightness by machine shop and came out good
-running on 2nd head gasket now with copper spray
-new head bolts torqued to spec and in sequence
-head bolt bores cleaned and blow dried
-dowel pins fully seated
-added an extra washer to each head bolt to ensure that the head bolts aren't bottoming out from the resurfacing
-coolant lines correct
-3rd intake manifold gasket
-OBD1 Injectors swapped with known good injectors
-tried new TPS and MAP but still no change
-No CEL's
-tried another known good ECU
-tried another known good distributor
-MAP and TPS connectors are not switched
2000 Honda Civic SI 1.6l DOHC
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dagm3ShGyE4
-I performed another compression test with the engine COLD. All cylinders show 170psi. Great!
-I performed a cooling system pressure test with the engine COLD. The system was under pressure for 30+ minutes. There was little to none (less than 0.5 psi) of pressure loss.
-I the performed a cooling system pressure test with the engine HOT. Within 15 minutes, pressure dropped 0.3 bar(4.3psi).
Note: Upon cold start, the engine does not begin to produce smoke until after about 5 minutes of idling.
Conclusion for todays tests: From the results I got today, if there is a crack that exists somewhere, it is so small that it does not affect anything when the engine is cold(initial start). Upon getting warmer/hotter, the steel/aluminum(where ever the crack may be) is expanding, making the crack larger and allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber. Next on the list is a block test to verify hydrocarbons in the cooling system. Let me know what you guys think!
-I performed a cooling system pressure test with the engine COLD. The system was under pressure for 30+ minutes. There was little to none (less than 0.5 psi) of pressure loss.
-I the performed a cooling system pressure test with the engine HOT. Within 15 minutes, pressure dropped 0.3 bar(4.3psi).
Note: Upon cold start, the engine does not begin to produce smoke until after about 5 minutes of idling.
Conclusion for todays tests: From the results I got today, if there is a crack that exists somewhere, it is so small that it does not affect anything when the engine is cold(initial start). Upon getting warmer/hotter, the steel/aluminum(where ever the crack may be) is expanding, making the crack larger and allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber. Next on the list is a block test to verify hydrocarbons in the cooling system. Let me know what you guys think!
The thing is that the person before me who had this car did not burn coolant and the car went into limp mode and was not burning coolant which dont make sense. And as well after being honed out its starts to leak coolant
Look into the cylinders and check out the piston tops. If you have one that is clean, that the cylinder burning coolant... It's being steam cleaned.
Cyclinder 1 and 2 seems to be a lil wet and i mean there is still carb build up it just seems a lil wet and thats were the dewol pins are too?? and the exhuast manifold was wet too
i dont understand why you would add another washer on the headbolts. I have my last motor decked and resurfaced but did not add a washer to my headstuds. That will explain why it leaks coolant pressure only when hot. When all the metal expands.
the thing is that we did it with out the washer and it did the same thing ans we were thinking that since we deck the block and head the headbolts is bottoming out and is making it leak, thats the reason why we did that and a local shop wanted us to try it out too
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which ever cylinder it is.. there is a 99% chance you have an ever-so-small crack in either the head or the block. things warm up, things expand.
and you shouldn't ever have to washer or otherwise fool with the head bolts. honda spends good money designing pretty fool-proof engines.
but
for using new head bolts! most folks can't understand what it means by "replace" in a service manual.
this.
which ever cylinder it is.. there is a 99% chance you have an ever-so-small crack in either the head or the block. things warm up, things expand.
and you shouldn't ever have to washer or otherwise fool with the head bolts. honda spends good money designing pretty fool-proof engines.
but
for using new head bolts! most folks can't understand what it means by "replace" in a service manual.
which ever cylinder it is.. there is a 99% chance you have an ever-so-small crack in either the head or the block. things warm up, things expand.
and you shouldn't ever have to washer or otherwise fool with the head bolts. honda spends good money designing pretty fool-proof engines.
but
for using new head bolts! most folks can't understand what it means by "replace" in a service manual.Yeah I really hope its not in the head if there even is one cuz did replace alot of parts in the head and i m just really confuse and stump on this car, I mean is there any coolant passesways by the vavles guides cuz i replace those and was wounding if its possible for it to crack arouund there???
Yeah I really hope its not in the head if there even is one cuz did replace alot of parts in the head and i m just really confuse and stump on this car, I mean is there any coolant passesways by the vavles guides cuz i replace those and was wounding if its possible for it to crack arouund there???
if you find the crack, and it's in the head you should/could most likely get it welded shut without getting dramatic or too $$
if it's in one of the block's sleeves... well.. most cost effective thing to do is to find a 1.8 ls/gsr/r bottom end and start a poor-man's type-r build. depends on what you want to invest and how much time you got. personally, at this point i'd probably find the leak, sell it to someone split so they can see what they're getting into and take the $2-300 bucks you get from it and buy another turn-key ready b16 for ~$500 and call it a day.
Well the thing is I spend a lot on the head and i took the head off and took it to a shop and it fine and they said it might be a crack internal by the vavles guides HELP BUMp
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