difficulty and cost of replacing rear engine mount?
crazy mad murdock
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,215
Likes: 0
From: portland, or
Re: difficulty and cost of replacing rear engine mount?
is the mount broken as in the metal? or just the bushing? bushings you can make from home-depot. Mounts can be found fairly inexpensively on local boards or at a junk yard (those that rape hondas at pick and pull usually leave them behind).
body damage is tricky, go underneath and look for rust in the rear wheel wells as well as the rear bumper.
body damage is tricky, go underneath and look for rust in the rear wheel wells as well as the rear bumper.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,444
Likes: 3
From: Pensacola, FL.
Re: difficulty and cost of replacing rear engine mount?
Replacing the mount is easy. With 243K on the shell, you better look over the suspension and bushings really good. If they haven't been touched, they're shot. Offer them 1300. Let them counter. Maybe y'all will meet in the middle and you'll end up getting a pretty good deal.
Re: difficulty and cost of replacing rear engine mount?
The rear engine mount is not "impossible" (if the none of the bolts are rusted), but it was certainly up there on my difficulty scale. The process seems simple enough:
- remove intake arm
- remove bracket connecting trans to mount
- remove mount from subframe
- reassemble
- enjoy
The trick to unbolting the mount from the subframe is to get a couple long extensions + a universal-joint for your 3/8" ratchet. You need to feed them down along the fire wall between the heater hoses to get the bolt on the back from above the intake manifold. It's totally tricky trying to figure out how to get the 3 bolts loose that connect it to the sub-frame, but it can be done without dropping the subframe.
The mount itself is around $70 now. Don't waste time & money on cheap aftermarket ones either. I tried that and none will fit correctly.
The hole in the lower left is the one that is really hard to get to. It's even difficult to get the bolt threaded again during re-assembly. On my new OEM mount, I even had to dremel the hole in the lower right to get it to bolt on. When compared to the original, this hole was obviously stamped an 1/8" closer to the edge. That was the only OEM/Honda part I ever had problems with. I had that mount in my garage for 5 years before I finally figured out how to install it without dropping the subframe. lol
- remove intake arm
- remove bracket connecting trans to mount
- remove mount from subframe
- reassemble
- enjoy
The trick to unbolting the mount from the subframe is to get a couple long extensions + a universal-joint for your 3/8" ratchet. You need to feed them down along the fire wall between the heater hoses to get the bolt on the back from above the intake manifold. It's totally tricky trying to figure out how to get the 3 bolts loose that connect it to the sub-frame, but it can be done without dropping the subframe.
The mount itself is around $70 now. Don't waste time & money on cheap aftermarket ones either. I tried that and none will fit correctly.
The hole in the lower left is the one that is really hard to get to. It's even difficult to get the bolt threaded again during re-assembly. On my new OEM mount, I even had to dremel the hole in the lower right to get it to bolt on. When compared to the original, this hole was obviously stamped an 1/8" closer to the edge. That was the only OEM/Honda part I ever had problems with. I had that mount in my garage for 5 years before I finally figured out how to install it without dropping the subframe. lol
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