Hi guys,

I'm going to reintroduce myself and keep a thread for reference on my latest project: a 1988 Honda civic std / standard / base model.

First a little background:

I've been autoxing off and on since 2000 when I first started in my itr.
Later on I got in an accident around early 2002 and that car was totaled.
I swapped everything from that car to my 1991 si beater.
EVERYTHING.

That included obd2 wiring, abs, 4.9 final drive itr tranny, Toda cammed b18c5, 5 lug, gauge cluster, ac fully functional, etc.



I've had a lot of fun in that car throughout the years, adding ATS close ratio gear set, Toda itb's, and Toda spec C cams + custom hytech header.

I decided in 2010 to get more serious about autox, so I ran the points series in Atlanta region.
I ended up getting 2nd place for the season in SMF.
This year, I wanted to take a run at first place, so I started losing weight off the car as much as I could; within the constraints of the rules.
For reference, the last time I weighed my si (before the lightening) it was 2323lbs.

At some point I realized that I could never get a 91 si as light as an 88 std, because there is weight in the chassis that can't be cut out within the ruleset for SMF.

But the night before the IA meet in atl, I shredded a Toda timing belt.
That sucked because I was in the process of acquiring a jrsc for more power this season.
The setback destroyed a few valves, and I took a break from autox to save some $ and repair the car.
I missed enough events that I'm out of the running for this season.

In the meantime, I kept looking and eventually found the car I wanted to move over to: an 88 std made in Japan.



It was being sold by a longtime itr friend Louie here on h-t!
We finalized the deal via phone, pm, and email, then I pulled the trigger and wired him the $, and a buddy of mine drove it from CA to ATL for me.

Here's the list of mods it came with:





















All I've done so far is weigh the car - it's 2089lbs with 1/2 tank of gas on 14" steelies.



My plan is to swap everything over from my 91si (including the b18c5 and ats tranny + jrsc).

The goal is 2000 lbs without driver.

Ideally, I'd love to get to 2000lbs including driver!

Eventually, I'm debating changing over to a na k24 and shooting for 280whp.

I'll edit this thread with more as time permits.

 

Reserved

 

that color is pretty sweet, not a big fan of painted moldings though. since your trying to cut weight down are you going to ditch the power window setup?

 

Clean car really like that color

 

Truthfully, I didn't care what color the car was.
I didn't even notice the painted moldings until I got the car home.

Idk whether I'll keep the car this color.

Anyway, I intend to remove a lot of small things that'll add up in weight loss.

I'm going to weigh everything as I remove them:

- passenger side mirror
- stereo and all speakers
- rear seats and rear seatbelts
- power windows
- alarm / keyless entry
- heavy *** full size battery in the spare tire well

After that, I'm looking for:
- a cf hood + 3pc front end OR possibly a 1pc front end.
- f7 rear lca's
- kirkey aluminum 8lb seats
- more as I think of it...

 

I'm really interested to see how it turns out.. What suspension set up are you running?

 

I currently have apexi n1 coilovers in 11k front / 16k rear that I'll move over from my si.
That combined with si front swaybar and suspension techniques rear swaybar on full stiff got me the rotation that I wanted on 275f / 225r Hoosiers.

I do have some koni yellows that I may have revalved and add ground control coilover sleeves + springs.

Most of my current resources will be concentrated on swapping to my new chassis and getting it up and running + sorted out.


*I have debated going with an hf front swaybar or no swaybar up front, and a smaller rear swaybar in order to save weight... I'm undecided right now on this.

 

damn good find.
Sell that ls swap and you should get a good amount of money to reinvest into the new build.

2000lbs is going to be hard... still possible...
think about the added weight if you were to swap over the itr5lug... easily 60-70lbs.

 

clean car ive always loved autox but i dont even know where to start on setups

 

keep the st rear sway bar, and take out the front bar at the least if you want to save weight.

also, you are calculating liter / weight = total weight, right? that's why some guys are running 1.6 liters with turbo's. they won't have to pay by adding weight in the end.

 

Holy 16K rears!

 

When I took my front bar off and put a DA rear on my car, it was the most tail happy car i'd ever driven. you do have A LOT more grip than I did though.

 

bewb krew.

 

Nice find bro. Good to see a fellow ATLien rockin out the ef hard! Say... What u gonna do with all those heavy parts u swap out??? Hint.. Hint..

 

I don't think I'll swap the itr 5lug over - just extra weight.

But I really would prefer to, I just like it better, and I have lots of 5lug wheels...

As for 2000 lbs, I'm pretty sure I could get there easily.

There's a minimum weight formula though:

 

The st rear bar is HEAVY - if I can find a lighter solution there, I'll ditch it.

As for weight requirements...

I did these calculations earlier this year:

1550 minimum weight + 125lbs per liter + 1.4L weight penalty for boost

D16 turbo (1.6l) = 1550 + (1.6 x 125) + (1.4 x 125) = 1925

Bswap (1.8l) = 1550 + (1.8 x 125) = 1775

Bswap (1.8l) + jrsc = 1550 + (1.8 x 125) + (1.4 x 125) = 1950

K24swap (2.4l) = 1550 + (2.4 x 125) = 1850


Oh and here's a couple more for ***** and giggles:

K24swap + jrsc = 1550 + (2.4 x 125) + (1.4 x 125) = 2025

K20 swap = 1550 + (2.0 x 125) = 1800

K20 swap + jrsc = 1550 + (2.0 x 125) + (1.4 x 125) = 1975

* now we can see why a built k24 is ideal in the power vs weight argument.

 

you'll be fine with the ST rear bar. if you think about it. even going with, say, the 32mm hollow ASR bar. it would probably weight about the same as the ST. for the fact that you have to buy the brace and all.

only other way would be to get a custom aluminum rear bar. i say custom, cause i know of no one that makes a light weight rear bar for our cars.

also to note, if you do take off the front bar. a lot of guys compensate with running a higher spring rate.

 

Blow me:

 

there is a 1 pc lift off front end on the atl craigslist i believe.

 

Thanks for the heads up.

If its the one I'm thinking of, Dave Hardy sold it on there and JBH bought it.

Small world.

 

Wow I've been slack in updating.

Below is a partial update.


On the 88 STD:

I couldn't take looking at the wheel covers anymore, so I traded an old set of itr wheels for some 15x7 +35 buddyclub wheels:



I decided that I could better use the $ for other stuff, so I sold them without ever even installing them...


Got some hasport motor mounts to hopefully shave a bit of weight compared to the innovative mounts:




Got a homemade 6lb fiberglass hood from Andy Hollis:



I'm pretty stoked on that because it clears kswaps too.


I owed Louie the s300, so I sent that back to him.

I picked up an AEM EMS and a pair of 15x10 keizers from Nate (solo-x):

 

Nice thread and ride...i wanna go the same route with my 1990 hatch. I used to autox in my FIT and loved it!!!. I got a 90 hatch that my bro got an an auction lol with a swap already in it...although its a SOHC its the JDM D15B VTEC and it has been changed from OBD0 to OBD1. the body is rough, but still has potential.

 

Any more info on that fiberglass hood???

 

What more info do you want?

Dude made it himself.

It weighs 6 lbs.

It looks similar to the siR hood in that it cowls up instead of going down in the middle.

It clears kswaps.

Did I mention it's 6lbs?

It's not the most cosmetically pleasing hood, but I don't care.

Function > Form

 

How much and how do I order one?