Car dies and does not turn back on til later.
Ive been wanting to drive my car on the streets from time to time. but the problem im having is that the car sometimes die on me and i cannot turn it back on. this just recently started doing so. never before.
91 civic sedan, built LSV-t. everything under the hood is new. the main relay is new and no fuse are missing or blown. the temp stays under half always.
the car starts up fine, warms up and idles @ 1k. drives fine and so on. when coming to a stop, i put it in Neutral and the idle just drops all the way and car is now off. i cannot turn it back unless i wait like 10mins. when attempting to turn it back on, the lights all work, the sound in the crank is strong, but doesnt turn over. eventually it will turn on but i dont want to have to sit there in traffic or at the light waiting.
now if i come to a stop and neutral ahead of time, but this time holding the throttle at like 1200rpm and letting off slowing to regular idle, it will idle just fine.
when the car dies, i CAN push start it. but again, i cant do this if i die at a light. ive changed ignitior with a known working set (2) and still the same thing. ive changed a whole another dizzy from my daily and still the same thing. i didnt even check the coil cause the "symptom" is the car wont start at all (waiting 10 mins or the next day).
my friend said that sometimes the solder? on the back of the ignition switch goes bad? the white part? (20+y/o car)
i havent really driven my car after the tune back in june and i would love to drive it from time to time without having to worry. anyone with any ideas, please help. tia.
91 civic sedan, built LSV-t. everything under the hood is new. the main relay is new and no fuse are missing or blown. the temp stays under half always.
the car starts up fine, warms up and idles @ 1k. drives fine and so on. when coming to a stop, i put it in Neutral and the idle just drops all the way and car is now off. i cannot turn it back unless i wait like 10mins. when attempting to turn it back on, the lights all work, the sound in the crank is strong, but doesnt turn over. eventually it will turn on but i dont want to have to sit there in traffic or at the light waiting.
now if i come to a stop and neutral ahead of time, but this time holding the throttle at like 1200rpm and letting off slowing to regular idle, it will idle just fine.
when the car dies, i CAN push start it. but again, i cant do this if i die at a light. ive changed ignitior with a known working set (2) and still the same thing. ive changed a whole another dizzy from my daily and still the same thing. i didnt even check the coil cause the "symptom" is the car wont start at all (waiting 10 mins or the next day).
my friend said that sometimes the solder? on the back of the ignition switch goes bad? the white part? (20+y/o car)
i havent really driven my car after the tune back in june and i would love to drive it from time to time without having to worry. anyone with any ideas, please help. tia.
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Who is Mr Robot?
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
have you checked all the wiring? main relay, starter relay, starter signal wire, etc? it only seems odd that it wouldnt start back up
all stock oem dizzy, oem coil. new cap new rotor.
as stated, it starts back up i just have to wait. ill make a quick video today.
as stated, it starts back up i just have to wait. ill make a quick video today.
Let me ask you this..
Does it do it right away? Or does it get warmed up , get hotter then die?
Does it spit and sputter if you try to mash on it above 3k? sounds like a bad ign control module or ignitior going bad.
Does it do it right away? Or does it get warmed up , get hotter then die?
Does it spit and sputter if you try to mash on it above 3k? sounds like a bad ign control module or ignitior going bad.
i just tried it right now. i turned the car on to warm it up. turned it off after a minute, i was able to turn it on still. after warmed up, it doesnt start anymore. waited a few minutes still just cranks. its been a little over 10 mins now and i just went to go start it again and it turns on.
does not sputter at all at any rpm. drives fine. sometimes i feel like in 5th cruising on the freeway i feel a small sputter..mmmmmbmmmbmbmmbbbmmmm
does not sputter at all at any rpm. drives fine. sometimes i feel like in 5th cruising on the freeway i feel a small sputter..mmmmmbmmmbmbmmbbbmmmm
Once again do a search for fuel pump relay, it is so common of a problem. The solder joints get slightly cracked when heated they loose their connection and then no fuel. If nothing else it good to be aware of it.
That did look like the main relay, but didn't know it was on the drivers side on the eg. On my ek its right of the glove box when you open it up. sorry shot in the dark.
mine did this and it turned out to be the fuel pump...It started a few weeks after my pump install.
altho, i never tried to push start it.. thats what making me scratch my head.
but if i let it sit for 30 mins. it would start right up. I changed my fuel pump and the symptoms were gone.
altho, i never tried to push start it.. thats what making me scratch my head.
but if i let it sit for 30 mins. it would start right up. I changed my fuel pump and the symptoms were gone.
Who is Mr Robot?
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
i'm betting fuel pump or fuel pump relay.. as stated over time the relay's leads crack and when the car runs can get hot enough to expand so the fuel pump shuts off and the relay has to cool down before it works again.
when it dies, does it do so quickly and cleanly, does it sputter on its way to shut off? we need to know how it shut off (descriptively) did it jerk, act like it was out of fuel, or cutoff like you had turned the key off
when it dies, does it do so quickly and cleanly, does it sputter on its way to shut off? we need to know how it shut off (descriptively) did it jerk, act like it was out of fuel, or cutoff like you had turned the key off
when i put it in neutral, it goes down slowly back to idle then immediately after that. it just slowly drops idle, slow enough for me to watch it and hit the throttle a bit, it will go back to idle and stay alive. the PROBLEM is IF it shuts off, i CANT turn it back on unless i wait over 10 mins.
well, you have your answer..
change the cheapest part 1st to see if it fixes it..
If it were me, id change the pump and filter regardless since the car is pushing 23 years old.
change the cheapest part 1st to see if it fixes it..
If it were me, id change the pump and filter regardless since the car is pushing 23 years old.
You could always hook up a fuel pressure gauge doesn't have to be fancy. Also something free, when it wont start back up take a spark plug out and make sure its grounded and with the plug wire still hooked up and have someone turn the engine over and make sure your getting good spark.
everyones off tomorrow, im going to be checking the spark looking for "white" i do have a fuel gauge, just not a second eye to look at it.


