BACK STORY... Bought this CRX about 2-3 weeks ago, did a even trade for my dieing Jeep ZJ... now the p-o had did a LS B18A1 swap out of a 92 Integra (i guess ill also post this in the integra side of the forum...) it ran fine and dandy, just had trouble starting and it wanting to die on its first few starts... (main relay was the problem)... the check engien light was on since i got it but the ECU wouldn't flash any codes... EVER...

now 2 days ago i went to town a friend off at the movies, it drove fine the hole way (just about 9miles) i got to the stop light by the theator, waited... light turned green i got on it and... BLAM it froze at 4k and bucked like it hit a rev limiter or something... i shifted second giving it less gas and it did it again at about 5k in second... i immediately pulled into curry doughnuts right by wal-mart (same lot) parked it and started checking everything over, i desided to let it cool so i went and did my shopping, came back about 45-60mins later. put all my stuff in the car and went to start it... NO START...

tried it again... NO START... then i hear *TINK TINK* metal on concrete... WTF... i get out look under and i find a bolt... i look in the bay.. here it the bottom bolt to my starter, and the top one is loose (i have ince found out that they arent even the right bolts and im currently looking for the correct ones EVERYWHERE) so i spend 20 mins trying to get these bolts in (they stripped the shyt out of the threads in the block... and by they i mean the previous owners) i got it started and looked everything over, even looked at the ecu window to see if it was throwing codes... NOTHING... i start driving home, now if i granny peddled first gear would go up to like 5k second would go to 6k but it would still limit... but if i got on it then first and second would stop at 4-4.9k...

i got home, parked it and started hitting up the forums trying to find anything i could... found a ton of stuff on LIMP MODE but no real definitive answers...

this morning i went out tried to start it and it just would not start... i pulled back the carpet, put the key to ON, and the light on the ECU stayed on CONSTANTLY... (after reading on the forums i think that means its toast... CORRECT?) i was like WTF... so i checked wires, i checked the dizzy, i checked for HOFFA'S BODY in the injectors... i tried to start it again... CONSTANT RED LIGHT... i started mashing my teeth and i got on CRXcommunity.com on my phone. some one said reset the ecu... so i did... NO MORE RED LIGHT... and now it would even do the 1 flash that it should when you first put the key to the on position... STILL WILL NOT START...


so all in all if there is anything you guys think i should check/try/troubleshoot please let me know, before i just buy a new PR4 obd0 ECU... and see if that works... if not SOME ONES GONNA GET A CHEAP CRX HERE IN PENNSYLVANIA!!!

 

First of all, I would check the ground on the Thermostat housing, make sure it's tight, not corroded etc, this is the main grounding spot of the ECU.

If that all checks out well, I would see if you could borrow a known working PR4 ECU before going out and buying one. Anyone from a 90-93 integra will do, they are all the same. Mind you if you use an automatic one to test, it will throw a Check Engine Light for no lock solenoid (this is for auto transmissions only).

 

Ok, Ty ill check... I went out earlier and re checked the ecu. The light is on when I put the key to ON but its extremely extremely dim...

 

When you turn the key to ON, do you get the fuel pump priming for 2 seconds and then click off?

I.E turn Key to ON, Check Engine Light comes on for 2 seconds (hear pump prime) and then it goes off when the pump stops priming?

 

When I turn the key on, I can hear the main relay click, I can faintly hear the pump prime usually, but today I can't hear it, just the mfr click. And the check engine light never goes out now...

 

Ok so, I took off the 2 ground wires on the thermo housing. Sanded off all the paint, put the ground back on, did the same with the other 2 grounds on the block also sanded where they connect to the body...

Light on ecu still extremely dim... Any thoughts...

Also I still can't hear the pump prime...

 

Resolder the main relay.

http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html

 

Already did that last week, and I checked it today to see if any solder re-cracked... All are fine... Maybe the pumps shot? But then why would the ECU light be on constantly and be extremely dim?

 

Do you have a multimeter?

 

Sure do, but its a cheap harbor freight one...

 

I took out the MFR cleaned off my previous solder... Resoldered it with new solder for the second time. And now when I put the key to on the LED on the ecu is much brighter but is still constantly on and still no pump prime...

 

I would pull the back seat and see if you are getting power to the fuel pump and sending unit when you turn the key on.

The power wire is Yellow and black.


You can use this diagram to test to make sure 100% the main relay is working, test for 12v on pin 7 as that is the fuel pump power wire while the key is turned to ON.

 

Thanks man, ill gov that a shot.

 

Before moving to voltage and Ohm tests, try the test below that bypasses the ECU to see whether the fuel pump will run.

Disconnect ECU connector A and turn the key to ON(II). Now ground the Grn/Blk wire that pins to A12 in the connector. Does the fuel pump run? Repeat the same test on the Grn/Blk wire that pins to A14.

 

Ok so I tested like u said b4, I checked the pump wire and it only gets .05v when the key is switched on...

Now as for the above test I already tried just jumping pin1 to pin7 and I do her the pump kick on much louder... So I guess ill just order a brand new MFR...

But as for the solid cel light on the ecu when in the on position... Do you have any thoughts? I'm trying to find someone in PA area that has a TEG that I can test their PR4 in my car but iv had no luck... I did how ever find some one with one in KY that wants 60$ shipped for it.

 

Do the test in post #14. It will tell you whether the main relay is working. The 1-7 test does not.

 

a12 and a14 are the same pin, in that diagram... but ill go give it a shot...

BIG NEWS...

ok so after looking at the engine stamp on my motor its B18A1, 2???? that means its a 92? correct??? so wouldn't this PR4 ECU be a OBD0... dosent the motor need a obd1?

 

Test each pin individually.

 

ok ill try it here in 20mins, my battery is on the charger

 

Post clear pictures of the ECU and the ECU connectors.

OBD0:
http://www.phearable.net/tech/wiring/obd0ecupins.gif

OBD1:
http://www.phearable.net/tech/wiring...schematics.gif

 

i did the test in POST#14. and yes the pump kicks on when either green wire on the 8pin are grounded... so what dose this mean? ty

as for the ecu, it is a PR4, (as the little sticker on it says) and the connectors look exactly like the ones on that link you posted for the OBD0 PM6 in the picture. but getting a picture of the connectors is a prob right now as i cant leave the house cuz im watching my girls kid. but i do have a pic of the ECU its self that i can link in here...


MY ECU...



sorry that im asking so many questions. im just new to hondas and i really need this car fixed so i can get to and from work.

 

Ok, so... I walked to autozone today. Bought a new Main Fuel Relay... (also bought a new PR4 ECU off some on http://crxcommunity.com it will be here Wednesday) I got home and tried the new MFR just to make sure it works... NOOOPE... Wtf... So I tested it by putting my volt meter on it... My ground probe in 2 my power probe in 7... I still get .05v... So I opened the New MFR, and low and behold there are 2 posts missing solder... AWSOME... walkin bk to autozone in the morning... BUT HERE'S TUE VID

 

Bump BUMP ba bumply buuump bump...

HAS ANY ONE EVERY GOTTEN A MFR FROM AUTOZONE...

Because iv gotten 2 more from them and both are missing solder on the same points...

 

**MASHES TEETH EVEN HARDER**

the ECU i paid for and had shipped to me came as a OBD1... HURAY yet another thing i cant use... this car is going to end up getting sold here vary soon...

 

It means that your main relay and fuel pump are fine. The problem could be a bad ECU or that the ECU is not getting power or ground everywhere it should.

Have you cleaned the G101 ground on the thermostat housing?