ive got a 1999 CRV with a b20 vtec in it... its a b20z bottom end with a stock gsr head...pretty soon im gonna need to pull the motor do a clutch.(possibly an ls 5th) add some new parts but most imporantly rebuild the motor so it will be reliable for another 30-40k..


parts i have...

supertech valve seals
supertech valves
supertech valve guides
accel coil
obx header and exhaust
fatty intake.. not sure the brand.
aem fuel pressure regulator
arp head studs
blox gsr intake manifold.
thermal intake manifold gasket and throttle body gasket
skunk 2 billet vtec solenoid.
cometic b20 vtec headgasket 84mm.

parts i need
hondata s300
arp rod bolts
255 fuel pump
girdle?
seals and gaskets
rings.
clutch

im at a delema though.. the list i have im sure im missing a few things is the budget build.. im sure if i take my time and do it right and spend some time tuning with a wideband it will last just fine..

but ive been seeing these kits on ebay that have all the gaskets, and the YCP high compresion pistons rings with all the bearings... and its around 300 i think. what im stuck at is if i buy that kit... do i spend the money getting it all balanced and machined? or do i just assemble it since it should all be within a close enough spec. am i running a risk on blowing the motor up since the bore is already so thin on the b20.. ive read conflicting info on the b20. that they are good and that they are bad. they are weak but they are solid. its all really come down to the tune... so really what im trying to figure out is what would you do..
i wanna do it once and be done... and get a little more power out of the motor since its kinda gutless in the crv...
ive been thinking about it alllll day... figured id post it up and see what other people thought

sorry if this is killing you to read.
any input is noted ans appreciated.
thanks for your time

 

i thought about doing a lsvtec or a b18c5...but since its the original block it would be nice to have it in there.

 

dood, i love the username.

I know of a site to get rods cheap. PM me

You can get the RS machine pistons for cheap
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RS-MACHINE-R...#ht_904wt_1064

now, you wont need:
hondata s300 - Chip and socket any OBD1 ECU and use neptune software
arp rod bolts - Just get the rods so you can spin higher then stock
255 fuel pump - too much pump for your set up. look to the 190lph
girdle? - Not needed
rings - use the one with the pistons

You can swap out the pistons and rods yourself. You will need to de-glaze the piston walls using a flex hone. (vids on youtube on how to use)

then you can take it to get balanced ( or pay the shop to build/balance)

Dont believe the hype on the B20 walls. youll be fine.


link to ECU parts
http://www.xenocron.com/chipping-c-2...bc5ceb7f7e51cf

read this
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/

http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/breakin.htm

 

I don't think you'll be able to swap out the LS 5th into the CRV tranny, but if you're able to...do let us know.

 

thanks man... the kids with all the stickers and badges.. jdm this jdm that... vtec turbo.. 400hp single cam non vtecs... when they tell you the 2 on the vin means its the second shipment that year from japan and not from canada....

yeah gtta love those kids..

the hondata was because if im ever gonna do anything with a honda ecu. the s300 to me is the best investment ever..
its USB lol
and BLUER has some killer deals on hondata and he does good work.
id honestly rather have an s300 then a high compression motor.nothing on chips they work great. hondata just makes tuning so convenient.then again im not very familiar with Neptune..

if i got rods i probably wouldn't get the arp rod bolts..
but if i use stock rods ill have to.. hence the girdle to (hopefully) help hold everything at higher rpms
what are stock fuel pumps rated at?

i know about the rs pistons... how much better are they then the ycp?
what would i do for bearings if i changed rods?
thats kinda why i was leaning towards the ycp kit cause it has pretty much everything to rebuild it other then rods.
how much can you get rods for?

 

i know its been done... i think it involves grinding the clutch fork?.. i saw a post somewhere on the internet about a guy doing that along with using an qaufie LSD from an h22 because a b series lsd was different.

 

When you do decide to to it though, please take mad pictures and do a thorough walk thru. I'm gonna be getting a spare tranny soon to tear apart and putting in an LS 5th would definitely put butterflies in my stomach

 

ill most definitely do a write up on it lol

the gas mileage would be awesome lol

 

heres my CRV!
old pictures
no heatwrap on the headers anymore

 

nevermind on the rods, they were on an overstock special but no longer available.

neptune has just as many features as the S300, but to be honest, you need to find a reputable tuner and see what he tunes on.. if he does hondata, then go for it.. make sure its not crome only.

the RS and YCP are the same thing. but youll need a set of nice cams for that high of compression.

IDK about OEM pumps, i think theyre 190's but walbro makes a 190 for 55 bucks.

youll be fine with the rod bolts.. ARP makes a set that you can swap right in w/o sizing the rod ends. then youll be able to spin to 8000

 

cool man thanks... i found out i have s2000 injectors on it.... never really looked at them.. the dude told me they were type r but they definitely aren't 240cc

so having 360cc's are a bonus... one less thing i need to buy...

im thinking type r cams.. or just using a b17 intake cam with a gsr exhaust..(like the b18c)

i need gas mileage though.. so im really trying to figure out if i should even use high compression pistons... do you think having higher compression pistons..would give me better MPG because its got more power or what? but id also need to run higher octane.. also... how lean would do you think i could go on highway at 55... i was thinking somewhere around 15.5-16.... if i put a LS 5th ill just have it at 14.7-15 i just wanna have it run good... run reliable and be safe for the wife! and its gotta get at least a consistent 25!

 

Have you driven your car yet with the B20V? What's your input/comparisson to your old B20 motor?

 

I got the car with the b20v already in it...but I did drive it for awhile without Vtec... Vtec makes a difference from a dig, and pulls until about 6k.. You can just feel it fall on its face though when your in 4th and hit Vtec... Its more of a noise.. It doesn't hit and take off like my old b18c in my hatch would.... But then again it's in an AWD CRV... And it has a stock bottom end... I think if This motor was in a Car though it would move a lot better. At any rate. I've redlined thus motor to 8k quite a few times trying to blow it up so I had an excuse to rebuild it, but it's still running with minimal problems