I need your advice about my 91 civic cause i cant figure it out. I wanna know my car keeps popping the 10A fuse slot 1 and on the diagram it says turn signals and back up light. Also my rpm stops working and my clock dont work. This happened yesterday i pulled my car and miss geared on 3rd then thats when it popped. So when i replaced the fuse everything was back to normal. Then i pulled my car again and this time no miss geared but it pops again. So i replaced the fuse turned the car on to on the fuse pops again, i replaced it 5 times. I tried using diff. fuse 10A, 15A, and 20A popped. Check for open wires didnt see none. I check the engine harness, ecu harness, inside the dashboard nothing. I cant figure it out. Need advice.

 

Double check the reverse light switch wires, if they are touching or are touching a gnd it can cause the issue like this.

 

try unplugging the reverse light sensor on the tranny and leave it unplugged and change the fuse and see if thats it

 

Alright thx i shall do that

 

Fuses blow from over-current, usually from a short to ground. You basically have to go over your entire turn signal/back-up light wiring harness to make sure the wiring hasn't been rubbed through somewhere and is grounding on the frame.

 

Install only a 10A fuse in the slot. Otherwise, you risk a fire as well as frying your wires and other components. There's much more on the 10A fuse 1 circuit:

 

I did what you said to do and it worked. I unplugged it and put a new 10A fuse turned the key to the on position and it did not popped. But i dont get it, its not even an open wire but why was it popping? So i plugged it back on and it did not pop which is good.

 

The fuse popped again while i was driving to work.

 

What electrical accessories were on when the fuse blew? Any listed in the diagram in post #6?

 

All that is listed was pretty much off when the fused blew, besides the mph gauge works. I dont even have a open wire.

 

I have a similar problem with a 90 accord lx. my #2 fuse in the dashbox at kickpanel. it blows when I put fuse in after about 3-5 seconds. I have all sorts of things unplugged and the only thing I can determine is that everything that is not working seems to share a common ground. g401? at drivers kickpanel. I am stumped and do not know what to do next. I know this is an old post but I need help

 

It will have nothing to do with the grounds, [unless they are bad or a power lead is shorted to the grounds].

Disconnect/clean/reconnect the g401 ground(s). 94

 

so if not the grounds because when I checked them they have continuity and found no voltage reference. so what steps would I take to run down the other side of the fuse. I am lost I have never ran into something like this before

 

Disconnect, [not just turn off] all the components that are powered by that fuse, then plug them in one by one until the fuse blows, then replace that component.

The ICU are a common problem on our cars, unplug it from the back of the under dash fuse box first, install a fuse if it does not blow, replace ICU. 94

 

Check that your clutch cable in the engine bay is not rubbing the wire loom, you could be shorting the wire every time you push in the clutch.

 

ok. so I will be posting I my original thread also but to respond to the above help comments. after unplugging every component on this circuit I was still getting the popped fuse after about 3-5 seconds. By sure dumb luck I unplugged the connector that sits on top of the driver side strut that sits next to some module. Inspecting the plug I could see where it got hot and melted. trace wires back and indeed yellow power wire that feeds the VSS was melted all the way to the VSS and back up about 1-2 ft of the wire harness to the fuse block. I cut wires back and unplugged VSS and I have been driving without issue other than no speedometer.

 

94

 

I had the exact same problem with the same fuse popping. When I went and checked the reverse wire running to the transmission I found the wire had rubbed through and was touching bare metal thus causing it to ground out and pop the fuse. After re-splicing the wire and using a good insulating (shrink rap) tape I've had no more problem with the fuse popping. That could be a good place to start looking.