I really need to know. This is as far as I was able to get it flush with the housing,




I tried and tried but I could not get it in any more than that. It spins very smooth though, it seems like its the way its supposed to be.

But Is it normal to be sticking out like that?

 

Does anybody know? It snapped in 2 times.

 

Just get the engine up onto the trans and you'll know if its suppose to be like that or not. It has to line up with the flex plate anyway. So I guess it may have to pop out a tad just to sit flush with the flex plate. Like I said, get the engine mounted up to the trans after you're done messing with what you had. Thats how you find out if it's suppose to be like that or not. When I did mine two weeks ago, I just got the engine mounted up to the trans and the torque converter comes up against the flex plate nicely without hesitation and started putting them bolts in and torque to specs. Thats all it matters.

 

I tried that, see my other thread. I ended up breaking the transmisison housing. I am now thinking that it wasn't the TC that did it but the way I tightened it to the engine. Its in as far as it will go. I made this thread because the welder that I went to today thought it was the TC not being in place all the way, as well as one other person on this same forum said that (see the linked thread).

 

What year Accord is this?

 

91' AT wagon LX

 

Does anyone have any idea?

 

91 accord??? mmmm when i just did my transmission my torque converter went in further then that. it didnt even sit flush with the tranny it actually went in a lil further. mine was a 90 accord but got a junkyard 91 accord transmission

 

I don't get it. There's just no way its going in anymore than that, I tried many times already.

Are you sure about that?

Do you have any tips on how to put the TC in the thing?

 

tomorrow ill make a video on how to do it. right now its dark out and kinda humid if i walk out the door ill start sweating the second i walk out. when you spin your converter does it sound like its grinding on metal?

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_nr4WQDpvw like they said should hear a double clunk. if you do hear a double clunk i dont know what to tell you. but it looks way off to me

 

I saw that video before. No, it doesn't sound like its grinding on anything, it spins real smooth, like a very good bearing. Some guy on the cb7tuner forum messaged me saying he worked on transmissions for 5 years. (The first part is about the broken piece). This is what he said,


This is what I said back,

 

The converter will go into the case and make contact with it at the back. You will see there is no room through the starter hole. Do NOT put your fingers behind the TC, you will crush/pinch them when it finally goes on.

If you look at the back of your engine you will see the drive plate(flex plate). This sits proud of the back of the engine. About an inch. The TC can recess past the mating surface of the transmission more than the drive plate sits proud.

DO NOT FORCE THE TC NOR TRY TO PUSH IT BACK BY INSTALLING IT ONTO THE ENGINE AND TIGHTENING THE BOLTS. YOU WILL ONLY DAMAGE THE TRANSMISSION AND STRIP THE BELL HOUSING BOLTS.

With the trans level you will need to slightly lift and rotate the converter as you install it. The weight of the converter will cause it to droop.
If it does not click in ~three times you will need to pull it back out and rotate the converter ~1/4 turn and try to reinstall it. Note on the snout of the TC that there will be notches or flat spots, those line up with similar spots inside the transmission which is the AT pump. Look past the seal and see if you can clock the TC to match up those notches.

Make sure to put a quart into the TC prior to install. Running the converter dry at start up will damage it.

 

I already did destroy the transmission housing, see that on this thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/need-help-pics-included-3081894/

Your statements about how the TC seats contradicts what others have told me, why is that? If it helps to tell you, when I put it in as far as it will go, it gets locked in there and is hard to take it out except with a little pulling force. I can't tell if I feel 3 clicks, only 2 clicks is what I can feel. When i look into the starter hole, there is some room still for it to go down.
I tried your "1/4" of a turn instruction but no luck, it just doesn't want to go in any more than that.

I think i may have damaged the TC when I first took the trans off the block b/c I accidentally left it on the flex plate and so the trans ended up sliding off the TC with some violence. Maybe that's why i can't get it in all the way. Idk.

 

Because whomever told you otherwise has probably never installed a TC in their lives.

Getting the TC lined up with the trans can be a right ***** at times. FWIW last week I installed an AT, spent about 30 mins trying to get the TC to line up. Pulled off the converter, looked at everything, reinstalled the converter in what I swore was the same clocking, and the damn donut went all the way on in one go.

Just the nature of the beast.

I have a spare H4A transmission in the garage, I'll go futz with it a bit and see if there is a way to get the TC hung up. There are three shafts that have to be aligned. The input, the stator and the pump. Three components, three clicks/clunks.

Then it can go on more. The TC can go all the way against the case.
I'll look for my camera and try and snag a few pics for you.
Then pull it and rotate it again 90* and when you get it in as far as it can go, rotate the TC back and forth. Every 180* the TC will line up with the pump.
Without a picture it's hard to tell.
Look at the snout of the TC, note if it is bent or damaged.
Look inside the TC, make sure the stator is not broken or falls out of view when the TC is on its end.
Check the shafts protruding from the transmission are not damaged or bent.

 

The delay on installing this TC I was thinking of a Plymouth which only has two flats on the TC snout. The Honda TC snout has teeth like a gear which can be clocked on at multiple rotations. Not just two.

The TC on the H4A is only recessed slightly from the bell housing when it is fully seated into the trans. Which is only about 1/8".

My bad. I was thinking of the wrong transmission.

I pulled the TC off and took a few measurements.
The TC snout is about 1-5/8" long with geared snout and an O-ring.

The large outer shaft of the transmission shaft sits 1-1/2" out from the trans.
The smaller inner shaft is an additional 1-5/8". Creating a total input shaft length of 3-1/8" from the face of the pump(where the seal is).

Mixing up my transmissions again.
It will go very close to the case but it will not physically contact the case.

The Honda TC has multiple teeth and not just two flats or notches, so you can just barely rotate the TC and it should line up with the pump and slide on.



Looking at this pic you have it on the inner and outer transmission shaft but still need to engage the TC shaft into the pump. The final third click/clunk.

Try one of these techniques.
1. Try to roll the converter up ever so slightly as you rotate it back and forth.
2. Try using the TCs center alignment pin to lift the weight of the TC up a bit while you are rotating the TC back and forth.
3. Flex your hand back and palm the face of the TC with the alignment pin centered in your palm. Rotate the TC back and forth and roll it onto the shaft it will go on. Use your other hand with your thumb at the 12 O'clock position on the TC and your other digits pulling on the case at the starter hole.

Don't force it, if you do it just hangs up on the pump and does not go on. Back it out, barely rotate it and try again.
If you installed a new O ring onto the TC make sure it is well lubed, the new O ring can hang up at times.

 

I've been messing with the thing a handful of times and can only get it into one same position. When I do, it spins nice and freely.


It seems to do the three clunks when I put it in now.

It really doesn't seem like it can go in anymore than what it is. Where is the pump, inside the TC or in the trans?




Ii checked and itt seems that the shaft and the TC are not damaged. I will put up a video for you to see, if that helps. It'll be up in some minutes.

 

It's easy to get the TC onto the first two shafts, they help self align.
It's the third one that is hard to get on. Due to the weight of the TC and the inner shafts having clearance between them it will allow the TC to droop and hang down. The TC needs to be ever so lightly lifted to square the TC shaft to the pump housing so they mate together.

 

Do you put it on with the TC on top of do you put it on from the side? Like this,

[youtube]vFFIPyv2C_4[/youtube]

Here is my video.

[youtube]9mU1Rek78qg[/youtube]

 

You install the TC onto the transmission when the transmission is in its upright position as it would be installed into the car. Like in the first video. EDIT: It wasn't til about the 4:00 mark did he get the TC all the way on. Note how it went from wobbling to rotating smoothly.

Upending the transmission vertically will NOT make it easier, it will make it harder.

Put the transmission as it would be installed into the car, then install the TC.

 

Okay. But what do you think about that large break? The trans has about 333K miles on it and I think its already on its way out, what do think? I really don't know if I should even get it welded.
I wanted to get a jdm trans from JDMEngineDepot with low miles, do you think that's a good decision?
It'l be 309 shipped. I think that's a good deal. But what are the chances it will be defective?

 

That is a huge chunk, not worth trying to fix it. If the internals were good I would opt to looking for a junkyard torque converter case, but with this unit forget it.
Nope, not worth the risk.
That's what I put into the '95 EX Coupe when its transmission died. Japan Engines did not have an Accord unit, so I opted for the Odyssey unit. Which has a lower final drive ratio. Much better acceleration at the cost of slightly higher cruise rpm.

The Prelude, Odyssey, Accord Coupe/Sedan, and the Accord Wagon all have different gear ratios and final drives.
Try to get a wagon unit, if not available get the Odyssey, but not the Accord Coupe/Sedan unit.
Not a bad price at all. You won't know if it will work until you install it. Most have a guarantee/warranty. Use a credit card so if they renege on the warranty you can contest the charges with your CC company.

 

The warranty doesn't apply to me though since it states only certified mechanics have to install it.

 

Look for a different importer.

 

that torque converter is spinning to freely it should be a lil harder due to the pump being engaged. the pump is not yet engaged. if you do get a jdm tranny i would recommend you to get a BRAND NEW HONDA torque converter. you ask y? well because its just safer to run something new then something used. i trust the transmissions but not the torque converters