I have a db2, stock p61ecu as far as I know. I was having issues with my car bogging out, checked the tps with a multimeter, don't remember the exact numbers but it was out of spec. Replaced with a blox tps and also the connector since it was cracked. now reads .5v-4.75v but my car is still sluggish and feels like it may be running lean, due to the color of my stainless headers it appears that the temperature of my combustion is higher than normal, so that would also make me believe it was running lean. after replacing tps had a CEL for the throttle body. so I double checked the calibration on the tps and I must have bumped it when I tightened it down cause it was .04v. reset the ecu and no more CEL, for awhile, but it's back again for the tb, never had CEL before replacing the sensor.

I think am experiencing a total loss of fuel for a moment because it will randomly stumble pretty much feels like when the connector fell of the tps. but for a split second.

My plan tomorrow is to check the voltage reading from the sensor right at the ecu to see if there may be resistance in the wire. theres also taped wires at the ecu light parts of the harness have been cut. any other sensors I should check that might be related to this? possibly fuel pump?

sorry for the sh*tty grammar and caveman speak, I'm just tired long day... then this happens...

 

what is the exact code? and you did reset the tps then? have you tried a tps sweep?

 

"I think am experiencing a total loss of fuel for a moment" could be a problem with the PGM-FI Main Relay, a total loss, as apposed to a drop in fuel pressure, could mean the fuel injector relay is malfunctioning, [no power to the injectors].

Also, when was the last time the fuel filter was changed?

The ECT sensor has an effect on the F/A ratio, although when it fails the engine will run rich "normally".

Check voltage at the injectors, low voltage would effect injector operation.

Intermittent problems can be hard to pinpoint, it may be easier to install a few telltales, like a test light, [or 12V light bulb] on the output of the fuel injector relay, place it where you can see it while driving, if there is a corresponding dimming, [or going out] of the light when the engine boggs it would pinpoint the problem.

PGM-FI Main Relay problems are common on older Honda/Acura, you may want to do the "fix" just to see if it changes anything... http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelay.htm
http://techauto.tripod.com/mainrelay.htm 94

 

I attribute the stumbling to the fact that I was nearly out of gas, filled up and it's fine. Pulled the code, seven blinks= TPS. My buddy at work has a badass snapon multimeter with the graph and everything. the sensor itself seems to be functioning normally however when I would sweep it, it would drop down to about.04v then after I ran it back to 4.5v it would go back and jump around .47-.49.

I'm thinking there could be either a ground issue or the wire that supplies voltage to the sensor. A look at the ecu, I found alot of wires "twisted and taped" so that could easily be the culprit. My game plan is to test - and + at the sensor. (not sure what the normal reading of that should be) then tap into the wire for the tps signal right at the ecu to see if I'm getting the right volt reading at the computer itself.

within the past few months I've replaced the distributor (bad bearing) cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and fuel filter for good measure when I bought the car.

 

the tps is just a potentiometer. 5v reference, reference ground, and signal. pretty simple stuff. for you to be throwing a tps code, the ecm is seeing signal above or below its range. since you said signal drops to .04v, well below the range of .5v, id say its pretty obvious thats where your problem is stemming

 

Got to agree with the above^^^.

I would start by properly soldering and shrink tubing any wiring that is "twisted and taped". 94

 

It is pretty obvious yes... About to do work on this harness.

 

A 90-93 acura integra with OBD1 will not blast a TPS code from voltage veering out of range that miniscule.

You have to smash the sensor with a hammer or unclip that sensor for the TPS light to go off, still might not after the hammer smash, lol.
Hondas OBD1 sucks for diagnostic reasons, and have been in hot water in the past over it. It should do what el crapitan said, but trust me it doesnt.
All Honda OBD1 is basiclally is open circuit monitor found in the OBD2 protocol, and not much else when it comes down to it.

That is why users have a harder time diagnosing and repairing these cars opposed to the new protocols that are 10,000 times more imformative, sensative, non-erronious.

just check for continuity of the three terminals on sensor clip, to they're ECU locations to rule out wiring first

 

^^you know, you're probably right. hondas diagnostic capability, even to this day, are pretty far behind. let alone obd1.